Will the new version work out of the box with the Panzer fightstick? I have a Panzer Hitbox and I ordered one already from Arcadeshock. Should be delivered tomorrow. But I thought I saw on Twitter Jasen say he was gonna be offering some on his site that will work with it. Does that mean the current one won’t?
I just received mine and installed it in a Panzer 3 Hitbox. The only connection I couldn’t get was the LS RS DP switch but I think I can find a different connector that will work for that or if I get brave, I can solder it on. The breakout panel fits perfectly in the Neutrik hole of the Panzer and I couldn’t be happier with how easy the install was. I have L3 R3 touchpad and start , home, share functionality as well. Also, the Home start lock button works on the Panzer with this board. My board from Arcadeshock came with jumpers so just install it on the (J15?) SOCD pins and plug in the controller and you’ll have normal SOCD functionality which is essential to using a Hitbox properly.
@“GOGO.Zippy” So I downloaded the latest firmware for the audio board. I have the Rev 2 version. I’m trying to do the LS RS DP emulate mode but it’s not working. When I press Options/Start+Right for 3 seconds it doesn’t switch to RS. What could be the problem?
@“GOGO.Zippy” Nevermind, it was because I had the “2 analog sticks” jumper disconnected. Thanks.
Yes, please look it
I confess I was absolutely unable to find the described part by myself. If someone could point me to a valid part I’ll really appreciate it.
It’ll be difficult to find a 4-conductor TRRS pass though mount jack with ground/earth as the center two rings. Many if not most have them as tip or sleeve. You could do a breakout board like the one below, but mount options are limited…
Why don’t you want to use the provided USB/Audio breakout board??
I need some help here. I set up a game room solutions arcade set with a zero delay encoder and used Happ buttons and microswitches to save money. I got two of these boards for Christmas so I can play games like Injustice and MKX on it.
The problem is these boards are completely different so the wires don’t fit. I got what I thought were the wires for it only to find they were way too small for the microswitches to connect to.
What kind of wiring do I need since I doubt I can fit 30 ground wires in two ground slots.
There are two versions (Japanese or American) of the Zero Delay Encoder board kits. Each version has different sized wired quick-disconnects (.110” for Japanese, .187” for American)to accommodate the appropriate sized contacts on your buttons.
Chances are…you bought the kit for Japanese-style controls…which means it’s time to check that return policy
P.S. Zero delay encoders have nothing to do with the subject of this particular thread. Please use the appropriate Q&A sticky thread for posts like that in the future. Thanks.
Not the original poster, but in my case I’m looking to use a GX aviation connector for USB and keep audio. I don’t historically trust micro USB.
@veoham The revision 2 of the Brook PS4+ board doesn’t use micro USB. Have you gotten the board already and have the older one? If not the new one should be fine with USB B.
Don’t trust microUSB at all. I finally surrended and bought the board assuming probably I wouldn’t find an alternative but wanted to try anyway. A week later the revision with USB-B announced but Brook won’t sell the breakout board alone.
Buy the newer kit and flip the old one on Trading Outlet (or eBay) to recoup at least some of the value. You’re going to be wasting a bunch of time by swimming upstream with the DIY route. Look…it’s this easy.
Does the latest PS4 update do 8 minute timeout? Do we need to update? I guess I’ll find out!!
For anyone wondering about the 5.05 update, it’s fiiiine…
I’m working on my first stick build (and my first woodworking project). I can’t find any detailed installation instructions for the Brook pcb. Does anyone know where I can find some documentation online? Any common issues or mistakes I should be aware of?
Is it just as easy as wiring up the buttons and stick to the board, mounting the board, then you’re good to go? Is anything other than the buttons, stick, wires, and board needed?
Ah yep - I’ll have to grab that new board as they don’t sell the USB-B neutrik plate separately.
Does anyone here know if the new version of the PS4+ board allows for TP left right and middle like the Brook UFB does? I can’t seem to get it to work on mine. You’re supposed to be able to hit TP click and left down or right but it ain’t happenin. Any ideas?
It doesn’t look like it. According to the “connecting” section of the insert that comes with the board you can install an actual touchpad or a single button for the TP.
I’m not sure if this is an actual issue or not because I can still play without issues, but when I plug my stick into my PC, the z-axis starts at 50% and goes to 0% when pressing R2, then 100% when pressing L2 (may be reverse, don’t remember). Just something I noticed and was wondering if it’s happening to anyone else.