I’m trying to figure out how best to add a touchpad button to my Voltech cases. Drilling through the face probably isn’t a good idea, and I can’t imagine drilling through the steel (esp. the SS version). I’m thinking I may end up notching the plexi on the bottom and adding a small button there as flush with the case and plexi as I can get. I’d have to lift up the case every time, true, but the stick is usually on my lap, and I can’t really figure out a cleaner way to do it
Edit: This is confusing lol. Had to edit this a couple times.
This seems like a great and reasonable solution. Has brook responded?
Personally, Im interested in a pair of brooks but going to wait and see how it handles the next couple of ps4/xbox one updates. Im going to want Share and Touchpad hooked up to my arcade cabinet so it looks like I will need an extra button. Going to play more than fighting games so i will assume other games will need them. Looking forward to how things develop
Ok so I’m a little confused. I intend to put the Brook pcb in my stick, well one of them at least. I’m trying to find the right usb/rj45 connector to connect the pcb to the Neutrik RJ45 pass through. I intend to also connect it to a MC cthulhu board for maximum compatibility for legacy systems. Tell me folks, what are my options for the pass through? I’ve been looking at the Neutrik NE8FDP and I have RJ45 console cables as well.
I am installing this into a Madcatz Fightstick Pro, the SFxTekken version. What’s the best way to mount the Brooks board in the case? I can’t seem to find a set of screw holds that fit the board well.
You could tape it down and or hot glue it. That’s how I mounted my ChImp into my HRAP.
Snip the end off the network cable and solder just the lines used for USB to the Brooks board; plug in other end to the Neutrik jack. Look at the USB-RJ45 cable you already have for the pinout or somewhere in the first post here where it talks about making the cable: RJ-45 Multi Console Cthulhu Arcade Stick Tutorial Ver.2
Edit: If you want to avoid soldering, plug one end of a USB cable to the Brooks board. Connect the other end to the trimmed network cable to the other end of the USB cable with screw terminals or Phreakazoid’s USB cable repair tool: http://www.phreakmods.com/products/usb-repair-tool
better to use an imp instead so you dont have to drill into any cases which might prove to be difficult or troublesome.
I’ll most likely solder. I’m not sure what the pin outs need soldering on the Brook Pcb.
Ok, thanks. I didn’t know if I was missing some easy way to screw it into the body of th stick
There are through holes near the USB jack labeled J6-1.
Ground (Black) -> RJ45 Pin 1
Data- (White) -> RJ-45 Pin 5
Data+ (Green) -> RJ-45 Pin 6
VCC (Red) -> RJ-45 Pin 8
If you have a USB A cable handy, plug in one end, crimp an RJ45 jack on the other according to that pinout.
Can anyone verify that when none of the DP/LS/RS connections are made, it defaults to DP? This would be the logical assumption but just want to be sure.
Yes, zippy confirmed it in this very thread earlier.
Thanks, I read through the whole thread but must have skipped over it.
Running a Remora LED Board with ArcEye 3s on a Madcatz 360 V.S. Stick
Created a Button Map and was wondering if it can be checked.
I could also use a ethernet cable too for soldering right? It’s pins 3-6 for the cable for a cat 5 cable.
I think evey wires are fine except keymap switch should have a bit. Is it possible to provide a circuit about it?
@DonkeyBlonkey - Your USBVCC is connected to the wrong spot on the BROOK board. Connect it to the V on J6-1. Where you have it connected on the BROOK is only +3V, USBVCC is +5V. Not sure what other processing/components are on that board from MadCatz that may not like 3V.
Everything else looks pretty good. You do have a few extra ground wires connected. I’m not 100% sure but the MADCATZ PCBs and the Remora should be common ground so you only need one hooked up between each of them.
Finally, The way the the BROOK handles the Player LEDs it relies on the GND part of the LED being controlled at the PCB vs. the POWER part. So it goes like this:
+3V (VCC on J5) ===> LED ===> P1/2/3/4 (ON J5) ===> RESISTOR ===> MCU
I know on the Hori panels the LEDs are actually controlled like this:
MCU ==> RESISTOR ==> LED ==> GROUND
If you can get a close up of the LEDs on the board that would help make sure it’s going to work with the Brook properly.
Tried running firmware update, computer crashed during the “verify” step in the same fashion it does when I normally plug it into my PC
When I try to run the firmware update again, it doesn’t detect my controller anymore, so the “update” button does not appear.
I can force it to load into ps3 ps4 and 360 mode fine on PC, when I force to XB1 I get these errors still:
If I plug it in and force no mode, computer instantly freezes like it did previously.
If you have existing RJ45 USB console cables following the MCC pinout, you probably want to connect from Brook board to Neutrik jack with the same pinout so you can reuse them.
do you have xb1 drivers?