I’m having a similar problem here, only my PC recognizes the stick, but none of my consoles do. When it’s plugged in the PCB lights up, but nothing works. I also tried using different cables with the same results. I’ve also run the firmware update and triple checked the wiring to no avail. I’m at a complete loss as to what the problem could be. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.
I use both SOCD methods. Use L+R = last input for charge characters like Guile, and L+R = neutral for QCF type characters. L+R = last input is better for charge characters because it feels like you get an extra frame or two of charge time, which can make all the difference. It also allows you to bust out his super motion in 3 frames. It feels like cheating
I’m curious, do you have a switch on your Hitbox that lets you switch between the 2 SOCD input methods? and if so, can you switch the input method while the Hitbox is plugged in? I put a rocker switch on my Hitbox to let me toggle between the two inputs, but I have to unplug my Hitbox, flip the switch, then plug it back in so it will work.
Something else I noticed about the L+R = last input, if you hold B+D, then while still holding them down, press U+F you get a neutral jump. You’re supposed to get a forward jump. There’s a bug in the Brook code. I’ve been meaning to tell the Brook guys about this.
Can the UFB emulate a Back button press with a button combination? I want to install a neutrik jack in the place of the old Back button but I don’t want to lose access to it.
So, I just tried to install the silent Hayabusa from my HRAP into my Brook stick, but the stick wont work. I put the black wire in grd and the white in vcc. What happens is that the stick is “stuck” on the left input (my PS4 meny is stuck all the way to the left). Anyone know why this happens?
Hi Gilley, I just have a jumper on the SOCD pins. A rocker switch is a great idea, thanks!
I’m using a silent hayabusa with a brook board without any problems. I would double check your terminals for a loose connection.
Thanks for the reply. Does this tell anything?
And here’s a video: https://youtu.be/ODnqi7jXObg
I would de-solder LS-DP-RS on the Brook if I were you.
On the Brook board LS-DP-RS 4-pin 1=LS, 2 and 3=DP, 4=RS:
You should only have to solder LS (Pin #1) and RS (Pin #4)
De-solder Pin 2 and 3.
Are there any issues using the Hori Hayabusa Silent optical joystick with the "brook universal fighting board WITH headers? The Hayabusa silent optical uses a 6 pin harness instead of the usual 5 pin harness. The sixth is i presume the ground.
So the ground should be placed at the “VCC” correct me if im wrong this does not involve soldering i hope? Since the UFB that i will use has headers for more easy of installing. Reason why i do switch joysticks depending on the game i play so i prefer to switch them out fast and easy like i do now with my Madcatz TE2 xbone stick.
Feedback is very welcome.
Ground is ground (GND).
And VCC is VCC (+5V).
The sixth wire is for VCC.
Your connection should go as followed:
- White for VCC
- Red for Down
- Orange for Up
- Yellow for Left
- Green for Right
- Black for GND
Thanks for the reply,
I will use the Brook universal fighting board + headers with the EZ mod for the Madcatz TE2 xbone. But how do you connect the Hayabusa silent optical joystick, i should have been more specific in what type of stick im using, So any input how i should do this sorry for the nooby question i did follow the 2 videos on installing the EZ mod together with the universal fight board with headers on youtube. But the hayabusa silent is a mystery to me how to connect. Thanks in advance
You do not connect your 6-pin connector to the EZ Mod as it is a 5-pin connection.
You strip the wires and connect them to the Brook directly on the blue bar.
It should be labeled GND, RIGHT, LEFT, UP, DOWN, VCC.
Thanks for the reply,
It seems this is going to be problematic to connect the wires directly to the brook. What i mean by this i do change joysticks depending for the need ie Sanwa JLF or Seimitsu LS-58-01 so once i hooked up the Hayabusa directly into the blue bar i cannot use other sticks unless i remove the wires from the blue bar.
Now changing sticks on my stock TE2 is very easy just remove the 5pin remove stick to one i need and hook up 5pin again. Is my assumption correct? If so i will refrain from ordering the Hayabusa silent optical stick.
If you really to go back and forth with either a Sanwa JLF or Seimitsu LS-58-01 and the Hayabusa silent optical stick, you still can manage it connecting the wires to the “blue bar” of the Brook UFB.
You will leave the VCC wire alone and hanging while connecting the connector to the 5-pin connection for the first two joysticks as they only require the other 5 inputs in the same other.
But I wonder if you only want the silent aspect of this joystick. If so, why don’t you try to get a silent JLF ? It requires 5-pin connection like the stock Sanwa JLF.
Hello thanks for the reply,
Yes i do own the Sanwa JLF silent its my favorite stick when i used it in Guilty Gear XRD for Potemkins hardest combo in the game. I really loved it. As did the LS-58-01 was excellent in GG.
However in SF5 the Sanwa silent acts differently meaning i have issues in dashing its a different game then GG since Potemkin does not rely on dashing but instead uses Hammerfal break to get close fast. Even with an oversized actuator and different springs still dashes feel odd and dont come out at times. Maybe its me… dashing on the LS-58-01 & LS-40-01 on the other hand though is SO SO easy but noisy!!
I looked up the Magenta Joystick which is silent and above all can be programmed ie change the deadzone, throw, actuation i think…and people love it plus uses a 5 pin. I asked around and its easy install on the TE2 or brook. But hefty price tag…