Build Report: Modding a 360 TE stick for PS3 with a Cthulhu Board (Dual Mod)


#1

Hi Guys, I thought I’d share with you some photos and my process in Modding at 360 TE stick for a Dual mod.

Thanks to Toodles for the awesome Cthulhu product; it really makes this mod easy. I just wish my PS3 TE stick had that same type of mod available. Darn MS security…

Anyways, if you have questions about it please post on this thread and I’ll try to answer.

I first posted this on my blog at http://frameadvantage.blogspot.com/

So far, this stick has been to 2 tournaments and 3 plane flights… so I guess it’s pretty reliable!


So I set out on modding my TE 360 stick to PS3 (I actually play more on PS3, but I bought this stick intentionally to dual mod.)

I achieved this entire mod with 24 gauge wire, a DPDT switch, and Toodles’ Chtulhu board. Time: 3 Hours.
http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/7412/dsc3216.jpg

http://img200.imageshack.us/img200/3397/dsc3210.jpg

I started with tapping the wires from the buttons off of the quick disconnects. You can actually move up the heat shrink, solder it to the back of the disconnect, and put the sleeve back over - seamless and clean.

http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/6330/dsc3213.jpg

I then moved to the main board, cutting the USB cable. Notice here that I connected Purple and grey to the Green and White of the USB cable, and the Green and white off of the board goes to the switch so that I can switch between 360 and PS3. The Red cable obviously is the USB power line. The ground on the USB has been reconnected to ground on the main board. Notice also that I have tapped the Joystick cable’s wires from below, and those cables go to the backside with the Cthulhu. I had to remove the main board’s screws to get to the underside though. Remember to heatshrink everything to avoid shorts.

http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/35/dsc3212e.jpg

Here is some detail on the wiring for the switching setup. As you may remember, the purple and grey are paired with the white and green going to the USB from the Xbox Board, and the yellow and green go to the Cthulhu’s USB output. The DPDT switch has been drilled to fit on the inside of the cable storage compartment, as it is less visible there. In addition, note the wiring on the harness to the left of the switch. This is where the Guide and turbo buttons are, as well as some of the power harnesses. I used that node as the main place to wire both the 360 and Cthulhu power rails, as well as ground. The green wire leaving that is actually the 360 guide button, which is tied to the “Home” button on the Cthulhu.

http://img300.imageshack.us/img300/9531/dsc3201.jpg

Notice here that all the wires come to the centralized position through the button spaces. I know this isn’t the cleanest, but I am waiting for some PCB standoffs in the mail, so this is a temporary solution. I know it is kind of ironic that I took the time to make the wiring before this neat, only to leave the board that it sits on messy, but it’s anchored down well. Two zipties secure it until those standoffs arrive in the mail.

http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/6064/dsc3220t.jpg
Here you can see my switch placement. Switch down is now PS3, switch up is 360. No more whining about which console and having to bring two fightsticks!

http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/584/dsc3202m.jpg
A view of the entire mod from the top side.

http://img37.imageshack.us/img37/764/dsc3219.jpg

Another Angle

Hope this page is of some use to those of you who don’t want to buy two TE sticks for competition. Save that money and get one stick with a modification! I’ll be adding custom art and paint later on, so stay tuned. Questions?


#2

If I send you a stick, GC/PSX/Xbox1 extentions, and a Cthuhlu board to your location, how much are you willing to charge for modding my 360 TE stick from 17317 (USPS only)? I purposefully got the 360 stick since it can be dual moded easier than using a PS3 TE to 360 mod. Thank you providing this guide for the modders out there.


#3

Check Akuma001’s thread in trading outlet. He does great work. Only thing is he’s on the west coast.


#4

Thanks for Hijacking the thread and counterselling :rofl:

Truthfully I just posted this to show what can be possibly done and at what effort it had to be done at - I really don’t care who does it since I’m not advertising myself anyways. Yuro, would you mind posting a link to that so Matarick and others can find that information?

Truthfully I haven’t done a Multi Console mod, and it requires some wiring through the VCC which I haven’t looked into yet. In addition, you’d have to have some universal RJ-45 Jack to make it really clean as well. You would have to tell me what you wanted before I could give you a quote and/or tell you what others should be charging for this service. If you want to, PM and I’ll help you through it.

Thanks,

-Triskadecaepyon


#5

Thank you for this! A very elegant guide. I just ordered two TE sticks (360 version) to be modified with the Cthulhu, and this information will definitely be useful.


#6

Thank You for this info, im gonna go order my 360 TE stick now and a cthulu board!! Very excited, I can finally ditch my SFAE Stick :slight_smile:

Ill be using this as a guide, well my dad will, as he will be doing it for me, just a quick n00b question:

You use the DPDT switch so u dont have to use 2 USB cables from stick to console dont ya?


#7

Good shit!


#8

You are correct; it solves the issue of having too many USB cables coming out of your fightstick AND solves the issue of accidentally powering it from two consoles at once - you’d cause some crazy current draw somewhere and blow the whole circuit board :confused:

-Triskadecaepyon


#9

Why is it that some people use 24 gauge wires and some people use 30 gauge wires? Is there a difference?


#10

Nicely done. I’m in the process myself. Just finished the Cthulhu board last night and got the ‘harness’ I made wired to it. I was still on the fence about wiring to the board directly or to the button wire junction block. This looks clean, and I believe wiring to the quick disconnects is safer, in the event of a soldering mistake - i.e over heating, etc. I think I might follow suit.


#11

The difference is the thickness. On my custom stick I dual modded, I used 24 gauge. Its thicker and less prone to breakage by handling. On my TE, I am using a 30 gauge ribbon cable from a SCSI hard drive. It will look neater than my 24 guage, but I’m being very very careful with the solder joints, being sure to shrink wrap wire to wire connections and hot glue wire to board connections. I found 30 gauge tougher to strip, because my strippers only go to 24 guage. 30 gauge might be cheaper, too, now that I think of it.


#12

Do you think you could show me visually in wh at you meant by heatshrinking the wire to wire connections? Where do you do a wire-wire connection? Is it the place where there are 20 wires coming out of a 2x10 thing? You do a wire-wire connection on the wires connecting the quick disconnects and the buttons, correct? Basically you add on another wire to the end of each wire connecting to the quick disconnect area, so in the end, you have a wire connecting the button, to the quick disconect, to the Cthultu board? Where else do you do a wire-wire connection?
If I’m a bit confusing, I’m refering to this area:

http://img200.imageshack.us/img200/3397/dsc3210.jpg

In the following area, I’m a bit confused as to why you heatshrinked the USB’s green and white when you disconnected it and reconnected it to the main Madcatz PCB. I’m confused because, couldn’t you have just connected the green/white wire from the place where you did the heatshrink/wire-wire connection, and connect that to the main PCB, instead of adding a little extra length (which seems to be only and inch long)? Also, since you cut off the green and white wire from the USB cable, is there any special thing you must do to the green and white wire still inside the USB cable (like tin the ends or something)?

http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/6330/dsc3213.jpg

In the following image, I have a question about those screw-down terminals on the top and bottom of the Cthultu board. All you have to do to make a connection from the Cthutlu PCB to the quick disocnnects, is strip the wire, insert into the hole, and screw the top (repeat for each wire = total of 20 times)?

http://img300.imageshack.us/img300/9531/dsc3201.jpg

I’ve also heard people mentioning something about resistors, did you use any in this project? And do you know if you would need them if you used the Imb board instead of a DPDT switch?

Sorry for the noob quesions, I’m totally new to modding and I just want to be able to get a stick ready for play ASAP. I’ve read a bunch of threads, but honestly, it’s so hard to look through them because they are all 30+ pages long, and most of the time, the info isn’t really newbie friendly.


#13

In that middle picture, heat shrinked wire to wire connections are the green and white USB connection wires.

my wire to wire connections were only at the USB connections for both boards. The rest was to my terminal block, much like the TE one.


#14

The resistors you’ve heard about are usually mentioned when someone is padhacking a madcatz 360 pad and they are sometimes required to facilitate the use of the triggers. My custom stick needed this.

Secondly, if you build the Cthulhu board yourself, you will be soldering some resistors from the kit. The Imp only replaces the DPDT switch and nothing more, as far as I am aware. If resistors were needed for a dual mod with a padhack, they would still be needed in both scenarios.


#15

When you mean terminal block, you mean this area?

http://img200.imageshack.us/img200/3397/dsc3210.jpg


#16

that’s right


#17

To answer your question CowboyK:

The wire is soldered on the back of quick disconnect. I move up the heatshrink, tin some wire, solder it to the quick disconnect, and move the heatshrink back down. I’ll get a photo of it later this week to show you how I did it.

And the reason I have cut the USB cable’s connections is because I have switch that controls which board’s USB is selected. This way I won’t have another USB cable coming out and the problems that may come from multiple power sources. The USB cable’s D+ and D- are connected to the center of the DPDT; up is PS3, down is 360’s D+ and D-.

And Toodles’ board makes it super easy; it literally is just strip wire (if using stranded tin it first) and screw down in terminal blocks.

i’m using 24 gauge wire because that’s what I have available, and it’s the best size for me because 30 gauge is hard to strip and is more fragile.

If you have more questions, Please Ask!


#18

Thanks for your explanations triskadecaepyon.

Well I just went out today to my local RadioShack to look up the prices of the materials that I need. Unfortunately, they didn’t have any solid wires that are 24-30 gauge (highest they had was 22 >_>). So I guess I have to purchase that stuff online, which is a major pain.

I wanted to ask if this wire that this site has for sale is the right stuff:
http://www.hobbyengineering.com/H3429.html
Also, I wanted to ask what color is best to distinguish my mod wires to the official wires on the board (I know this is something small, but I’d like to be as ‘pro’esk as possible). In total, the shipment would total to about $6.74 shipped; is this about average for a 25’ spindle? If you know of a cheaper place to buy from, please let me know! :smiley:

I already have a soldering iron (my dad’s actualy), but I’m wondering how small of an iron is best. I know now that I have to do some soldering on the quick disconnects, but I plan on purchasing an Imp board instead of the DPDT switch, mainly because I don’t want to screw a hole into my arcade stick (and I’m not sure if I have the drill to do it).
The LizardLick website says the Imp board is recommended for “advanced users only.” Does anyone know if a relative noob could do mod it with the MC Cthulhu?(I’m a pretty fast learner, and I’m not a clumbsy idiot :razzy:)

A question about the Cthulhu, in order to mod it onto the Madcatz TE Xbox360 stick with an Imp board, do you NEED the Multi-console version? Or will the PC/PS3 version work? I’ve tried zooming into your pics triskadecaepyon, but I can’t see if you have the diodes on there (and you’re not using the Imp board, so I can’t tell for sure even if you had the diodes). People have told me to just do a search, but honestly, I couldn’t find a specific line that stated that in order to dual mod a madcatz TE stick with an Imp board, you need the Multi-console version of the Cthulhu board. Please if I could get an answer to that specific quesion, that’d help a lot because then I can start ordering my the Cthulhu I need.


#19

Actually instead of Solid get STRANDED wire. Much easier to handle, flexible. Stuff I use is alpha silver tinned copper wire with teflon 24 Gauge. Not cheap, but I work in the Audio industry so I wanted the best. I’d order wire online for best results.

The imp board is a nice mod if you want it clean, but don’t forget you have the support of all of us on the forums to make it happen. The imp board if I remember is not PS3/MC dependent. If you still have questions, I’m sure the maker Toodles can chime in if you PM him.

My Cthulhu board is stock, so no diodes. The reason for those is to accommodate VCC for multiple consoles that don’t use USB connections, like Xbox1, PS2, GC, etc.


#20

Okay, so I just found some 100ft stranded wire for about $10.50 shipped on this website:
http://www.allspectrum.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=85_145&products_id=1387&osCsid=2b8e45f298ec0e86a8215a37f2c22bcf&sdesc=Hook+Up+Wire%2C+24AWG+SOLID+CORE%2C+UL+%2F+CSA%2C+100ft+spool%2C+BLACK+Model+%23+CONWIRE-803-0

Here are the specs on the wires:

All those volts specs, does that even matter? All I need to know is whether it is 24-30 gauge right? Also, what color should I pick XD?

Update: Finally purcahsed my MadCatz stick from NewEgg for $129.99 - $7.80 cashback = $122.19 shipped. should be here by next Monday or Tuesday. If all my prices are correct, it’s going to cost me a total of about $194.19 to get my stick dual modded. And when I want customized artwork, it’s going to cost me a total of around 224.19 ($18plexiglass + $5s&h). Dang, this is really stacking up… I was expecting to pay about $120 for a HRAP3-SA or just the PS3 TE stick.