Building new custom arcade stick

[Drambit]

Hey. My modded mayflash arcade stick (that I was too lazy to post a thread about) started to break down on me, The top started to sink due to my mounting job of a jlf, the button holes were slightly too big, I never got a chance to do plexi etc etc… So what I did was remove all 8 Seimitsu Ps-14 kn buttons, and my jlf. I essentially abandoned the case. I recently tried making my own mvc3 stick with all happ stuff, but I grossly overestimated the amount of space I needed, and never thought to make a tilted CP so it was a major wrist destroyer. I’m coming at my new one with a whole new approach though.

What I’m really interested in trying is: Making one of those very thin wooden ones with the routing around the edges so the entire thing looks somewhat like TE wings, minus the exotic wood I’m on a budget. Example: http://www.techmagnews.com/wp-content/uploads/images/Interview_with_Custom_Arcade_Stick_Junkie_Sam_Kurd_of_B15sdmDesigns.jpg

Another thing I wanted to give a shot at was making a AIAB knockoff (http://fc00.deviantart.net/fs46/f/2009/199/4/b/Arcade_In_a_Box_Stick_Design_by_lKaos.jpg), or a hori vlx knockoff. If anyone would be willing to post either tips or a crafting guide for any of those 3 feel free to I’m certainly no expert carpenter, although I have access to a carpentry workshop. Oh and not just the routing, another big problem I face is I’m not entirely sure how they countersink the holes for start/select/home. A big ass countersunk drillbit or what?

There is also yet two more problems I can’t get by. 1: I was trying to mark down dimentions for the vewlix 8 button layout to drill through a piece of MDF which will be my CP (covered by cardstock artwork and a sheet of acrylic), but while I was looking at the slagcoin layout for it and It’s missing many very Important dimensions or I’m blind either way. For instance there is no Height measurement on either side of the diagram. I tried printing it out but I couldn’t get the scale properly either, It transformed 207mm to 242mm (http://slagcoin.com/joystick/layout/shift36_s.png). And finally my last problem is that I have lot’s of trouble trying to figure out a good way to mount my pcb. On my massive custom stick with at least 3/4 inch under the buttons and joystick and tons of room at the sides I found it next to Inpossible to mount a sixaxis + axisadaptor so i had to be innovative and use Velcro (lol.)

If you have any tips or anything to share, or your own questions to me or anyone else (I’m relatively knowledgeable about this sort of thing usually) just reply.

P.s: I can’t figure out how to post pictures with the new thread maker/post editor, I’m a missing something or was my ability revoked?

Thanks
Drambit

[Drambit]

Turns out because I forgot to remove image takes off a quote I won’t be able to post pictures till mid September so you’ll have to use links I guess.

[magocyber]

hey Drambit, to make the holes flush, you first start with a forstner bit an inch and half will do, just go about half inch deep if you are using 3/4 wood or MDF, then used a 30mm Forster bit to make the actual hole for the button, that is how I do mine, also if you are going to cut holes on plexyglass, I recommend using a spiral bit and a router, it will give a better result than a forstner bit, hope it helps

[Drambit]

hey Drambit, to make the holes flush, you first start with a forstner bit an inch and half will do, just go about half inch deep if you are using 3/4 wood or MDF, then used a 30mm Forster bit to make the actual hole for the button, that is how I do mine, also if you are going to cut holes on plexyglass, I recommend using a spiral bit and a router, it will give a better result than a forstner bit, hope it helps

Thanks, and then I just assume you sand the edges down after drilling the actual hole? Also I still have to order 30mm bits, they’re hard to find.

[magocyber]

yes, or you could used one of those round over bits, so it look like the ones B15 does, here is the link where I bought mine, http://www.acetoolonline.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=forstner, remember you can always make the larger hole deeper even after you cut the inside hole, you’ll know what I’m talking about once you start making them holes, you can also try them on a scrap of wood first that way you’ll know how deep you have to go without ruining the actual finish product.
one thing I forgot, the smaller buttons are 24mm, so make sure you get a 24 and 30mm bits, they aren’t that expensive

[Drambit]

yes, or you could used one of those round over bits, so it look like the ones B15 does, here is the link where I bought mine, http://www.acetoolonline.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=forstner, remember you can always make the larger hole deeper even after you cut the inside hole, you’ll know what I’m talking about once you start making them holes, you can also try them on a scrap of wood first that way you’ll know how deep you have to go without ruining the actual finish product.
one thing I forgot, the smaller buttons are 24mm, so make sure you get a 24 and 30mm bits, they aren’t that expensive

Yah I’ll look into buying those some time. I would look for something rounded but it’s not worth It for a small case replacement