Buying a wired 360 controller

I need to buy a wired 360 controller but I need to make sure it is common ground before I fork out the $29. So, SRK techs i ask you this. What are the odds of me buying a wired controller and opening it only to see that it is not a common ground controller?

Is it rare to get a ‘earlier’ version of the 360 controllers because they have all been phased out or is it possible that i could be this unfortunate?

You can get a Mad Catz pad for $25 (or less) that will definitely be common ground. Go hit up GameStop for one of these or the $10 Retro stick if they have them.

Checked gamestop and walmart where i live and they had neither. I am also more familiar with the official pad so I am willing to shell out the extra 4 dollars.

The Mad Catz pad is actually much easier to hack. Microsoft adds a protective covering to their contacts to prevent them from corroding, but this correspondingly makes it more difficult to solder. Plus, all recent Mad Catz pads are common ground.

I’d say the chances are decent, but I dunno. I got a wired 360 controller from DealExtreme. The case and stickers all matched the CG version, but when I opened it up it was non-CG.

Much safer to go with the MadCatz pads.

What would being familiar with the official pad have to do with anything if you are just going to be ripping the PCB out?

I am going to solder the TP connections on the back of the microsoft controller. Also, doesn’t the madcatz controller require some kind of fancy transistor and resistor setup for the triggers instead of just a single 10 ohm resistor? Unlike the Microsoft controller which requires only a single resistor for each trigger.

Feel free to flame me if this is stupid, I would rather be yelled at and then wire the board right then not be yelled at and wire the board wrong.

Depends on which board you end up with, unfortunately. Would you rather take a chance on common ground or on a harder trigger setup?

That’s a new one on me. I’ve only ever used a single resistor on the madcatz pads I’ve worked on and they’ve all worked fine.

btw, the resistor should be 10k ohm (ie 10,000 ohm), not 10 ohm.

The newest PCBs use a low activation on the triggers which adds a couple steps to getting them working.

what are the chances that this Madcatz controller would be the controller easiest to hack?

where do you guys usually get your PCBs from?