Can I drop a Sanwa JLF into my Hori RAP EX-SE?


#1

I have the white case hori RAP EX-SE for the 360 that came with the Seimitsu ls-32 pre installed in it. I did the ls-52(?) modification about 2 years ago to make it feel smoother, but it made the stick taller unfavorably. Now, one of the plastic pieces assembled inside is cracked, and it’s anything but smooth.

Now, I know I can just drop in another ls-32 without having to worry about the mounting plate and all that stuff- but I’d like to know if I can just drop in a Sanwa JLF, easily, without messing around with the mounting plate or anything. If so, would you tell me the right Sanwa JLF part number with the right mounting plate or whatever to purchase to get it working correctly? If not, which sanwa would I need and how difficult is it to drop it in/how much more time is required than the seimitsu to fit it in?

Thanks in advance and happy gaming!

Here is a picture of the inside of the EX-SE for clarity: http://www.flickr.com/photos/34956327@N03/3255344901/


#2

http://cache.kotaku.com/assets/images/gallery/9/2009/02/medium_3257660566_81aa48a648_o.jpg

Hrap-EX SE above The plate for the JLF connects to the the metal panel vertically instead of horizontally like LS-32 orde this model from Focus that comes with mounting plate

Questions like this should go in the noob section not starting threads for just simple questions


#3

JLF-TM-8T.


#4

This, since the EX-SE does not have any 5 pin connector for the stick and cannot (without some rewiring) connect to the TP-MA from a JLF-TP.

On a related note, you can try buying a JLF-TM off someone with a HRAP EX-SA.


#5

Thanks for the advice, very helpful. Except I can’t find a jlf-tm anywhere, except for about 40.00 after shipping on ebay lol. They hard to come by? If I can’t find one, I’d need the regular ls-32 and NOT the ls-32-01 right as a replacement?


#6

You can either modify a the pcb version of the jlf or just purchases the parts and put one together and use either zippy or cherry microswitches they come with individual prongs for signal and ground so you can plug them in directly I think zippys are the correct size but i’m not sure


#7

Get 4 Sanwa/Omron MS-0-3 switches.


#8

Bad and good luck> The good luck: my local arcade had a spare jlf-tm-8t-sk unused. The suck: I guess I managed to strip one of the mounting plates screws last time I worked on it that the seimitsu is screwed into. The other end of the screw doesn’t use a bolt, it just goes through the mounting plate and the other end touches the metal panel when it’s screwed in.

How the heck should I get that stripped screw out since it will be tough probably to get at with pliers/no bolt?

Also since I was looking at it, are .187 qdc’s easy to find at Ace hardware or home depot?


#9

take a quick picture of the issue it helps a lot


#10

Okay np.

Top View: http://picpaste.com/pics/TopView.1344414177.jpg

Side/Best View: http://picpaste.com/pics/BottomView.1344414259.jpg

That screw looks done for on the top

Also… anyone know which screw that is for replacement at the hardware store if and when I can get out the stripped one?


#11

yeah use a pair of pliers you wont be using that section with the jlf mounting plate anyway so it won’t matter if the hole is striped try to pry up on the screw with a flat head while you are using the pliers and it should come out


#12

So no power drill necessary you think eh? Maybe I’m just tired as eff…but what are the pliers doing while im prying the top out with a flat head?


#13

the pliers twisting the screw unless you can still use a Phillips head then use that


#14

Thanks man! Got the whole thing off and didnt even strip the hole. Okay…1 more silly question (hopefully) to seal the deal. When I’m wiring up the JLF, i know i can solder or use .187 QCD’s to connect the wires… but how about running the cable through the hole and putting electric tape around the whole post its wired into to ensure steady contact. I KNOW it’s not pretty… i don’t really care…but will it stay functional?


#15

I thought you were going to use the connections already there from the LS32 also the ones used normally are .110"


#16

oh never mind there hard wired there are no .110" you can just solder them on the jlf or add .110"


#17

.187" to use, not the .110" size.


#18

My mistake listen to jdm I haven’t messed with hardwired stick in years


#19

My question: without soldering or 187 qdc’s, can I just string it through the hole making good contact with the post, and tightly wrap a strip of electric tape around it? Going for function over form…

Update: My luck sucks, a head of another screw came off while screwing in the JLF mounting plate. It’s super tight with the other 3 screws…so I’m just going to apply a bit of crazy glue around that mounting point where the screw head tore off of the screw. It’s already not moving at all so I think that will do


#20

No I would not recommend that at all that would be a bad connection