Can I protect an SE faceplate?


#1

Hey SRKers,

A few months ago I attempted my first ever mod by customizing my SE. While the new Sanwa parts went in without a hitch and have been great ever since, I totally screwed up the others parts of it. I pained the case but didn’t put a clear coat on it and now it’s rubbing off on the areas where my palms rest during gameplay. I also had two disasters happen with my art, one at a local place and again at Kinko’s.

I’m going to redo the paint job with a different color of Krylon Fusion and use clear coat this time. Since I’ve had two bad experiences with custom art I want to use a bare metal faceplate to go with the look I’m designing. Now here’s my questions:

  1. When I took the original art off, it ripped and left little white patchy marks all over. When I take the new adhesive art off and that residue and the original patch marks are still there, can I sand those off? If so, what kind of sandpaper should I use?

  2. After the sanding, will my faceplate be protected if I put a few coats of clear coat on it? Should I do anything else?

Thanks!


#2

Lotsa layers of clear coat?

The general rule of sanding should be low to high grit of sandpaper. Lets say starting at 400 progressing up to anything higher than 1000 grit? Lower grit takes off the rough stuff while the higher grit smooths out the surface making scratches and etc none existent. Prime, sand, prime, sand again(if there’s imperfections) then spray a couple layers of base coat then a couple of clear/matte coat. I’ve never really painted sticks but that should be the general steps towards prepping and painting many things.

If anything making a custom graphic with a laminated surface should protect the face of the SE stick for a long time.


#3

isn’t the top faceplate metal?

I’d use rubbing alcohol and rub off the glue residue from the old artwork.
and i think most people in modding threads, say to use Lami labels, from like kinkos, is ideal for the artwork.

i did mine with “dupli-color’s vinyl and fabric” paint and clear coat(although many people say is not necessary), worked great.
you can get the dupli-color at most auto zone/auto part stores, but the clear coat i had to get from amazon.


#4

Use Goo Gone to clear off any left-behind adhesive. You won’t have to deal with sandpaper marks that way.


#5

Googone works freaking wonders.

I tried everything to get the left over adhesive off and nothing was working.

I finally found googone, and tried it, it was off instantly.


#6

Yea I soak the surface of my plexi-glass with Goof Off when I want to replace my graphic for my other stick. 10 minutes later you comes right off with no resistance.


#7

Thanks for the tips.

When I took the original art of the SE and it ripped, I used some cheap ripoff of Goo Gone my wife had in the house and it didn’t really help. Maybe the real stuff will do the trick. As for the art, the local place I tried didn’t do lami-label so they printed it on this adhesive paper but it wasn’t laminated. When I got Kinko’s to print it up for me somehow it ended up being too small to cover the entire faceplate.

I think I’ll experiment a bit and see what happens.


#8

Theres a secret concoction of goo gone, rubbing alcohol, sandpaper and a straight razor that worked for me. i combination of rubbing scraping and peeling to get the thicker stuff off.