Candy Cab Assistance


#1

I recently obtained a Jaleco Pony Mark IV cab that did not have a monitor with it. I have a 25" American monitor that I would like to put in there even though from what I’ve read it takes a 29" monitor. The guy who I got it from said it needed a 25" monitor so I thought it would fit. To add, there was no outer monitor frame to support the monitor itself. I didn’t know it needed that because what he told me was that once I got a monitor it would just be screwed in by the four bolts on the side. Now for questions. Is there somewhere or someone that I can have build a frame or purchase the frame by itself? I have been looking around but no luck. Also, will my 25" American monitor connect to a Japanese cabinet? There is a link at the bottom of the type of monitor I have. Thanks for the help in advance.

Link of the monitor
http://cgi.ebay.com/25-inch-CGA-EGA-arcade-monitor-239-95_W0QQitemZ200438227319QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item2eab0ca177

Link with pics of my cab
http://img514.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=007ms.jpg


#2

This is an unrelated solution, but you could try to mount a 27" tv in there instead.

Televisions use a different measuring system, so a 27" TV is actually the same size as a 29" arcade monitor.

If you can find a good quality TV to put in there it should fit much more easily than the 25" monitor, and look better too. It will probably just fit right onto the existing mounting points, and if it doesn’t only a little modification will be necessary.

A 27" tv can actually look much better than a used 29" monitor since TV’s usually have no burn in at all, and have some advanced features to improve the image quality. Addtionally, they are usually digital, so you use a remote to change settings via an on-screen menu instead of messing around in the back of the monitor.

To get the TV to connect to a game board you will need to buy an RGB to S-video/Component adapter. The adapters actually do a very good job and have minimal loss of the signal. You would never notice the difference in video quality in most situations. They do not introduce input lag at all.


#3

Is there any lag/delay with that adaptor? Do u happen to have a link?


#4

Reading, do it.


#5

Wow, what a helpful post. :rolleyes: I read the line about not having input lag but with any adaptor especially converting video there is usually a drop in something, whether it’s the delay, or the quality of video; for example, a VGA box. Maybe I should have elaborated on what I was asking.


#6

The only thing these adapters are converting is the colorspace of the signal. The resolution and refresh rates stay the same. There is no processing going on, only a IC chip that splits the RGB signals into YCBCR.


#7

Oh, okay. I also added some pics of the cab itself so everyone can see what I’m looking at.


#8

One more thing about using a tv.

If you do you will want to figure out some way of securing the chassis from the tv inside the cab. Most arcade monitors come with a frame to support the chassis underneath. You can repurpose one of those or make your own.


#9

Does anyone have a recommendation of a website to get the RGB->S-Video/Component adapter? Also, if I get the TV in there do I have to have the front panel buttons connected and how about the TV speakers?


#10

The buttons on the tv will be connected to a small pcb. It will be on a wire that will hang loose from the bottom of the tv once you put it in the cab. I recommend finding some way to secure it to the frame of the cab or monitor. A little glue and a zip tie would probably work well.

The TV speakers can be disconnected. You can either run the wires from the speakers in the cab to the wires on the tv and use the tv’s audio ports, or just run audio directly to the cabs speakers and use an exterior amp. I would probably go for the second one.


#11

@ mega: So do I have to have the front panel buttons still connected or can I cut the wire since I probably won’t be using them? Also, if I do get that adapter will that make it so the cab’s speakers are used instead of the TVs? And should the cab have that exterior amp u refer to in ur reply or would I have to buy one?

And again to anyone reading, any recommendations on a reliable website for the RGB adapter?


#12

The JROK encoder is pretty good from what I hear.

http://jrok.com/hardware/RGB.html

There are some chinese ones on ebay every once and a while that are cheaper that I have heard work pretty good too.

There are some RGB to component transcoders on ebay that weren’t designed for arcade use, but they should also work as long as they do not do any scaling.

You don’t want to cut off the front panel buttons. Who knows what is on that little pcb they are connect to? It may be that the only way to enter the service mode of the tv you choose is to use those buttons.

The adapter will be for video only, although some of them have audio passthroughs.

Most cabs will have an amp built into them. If they don’t then little audio amps are cheap and easy to use.


#13

How about this one? http://www.jammaboards.com/store/cv-04-rgb-to-ntsc-pal-tv-converter-pcb/prod_253.html

And has anyone e-mailed JROK before so I know how much something like that would cost? And if I was to get one of these adapters would I only need the yellow video cable that has a male end on both sides?


#14

I think the JROK is about $75 if I remember right.

The one in your post has two type of connections, composite and S-video. You DO NOT want to use that composite cable. It will result in an inferior image. Always go with the S-video connector, and make sure the tv you are using has one.

I recommend going ahead and getting the JROK though. It has component video out, which is even better than S-video, and should be nearly identical in appearance to the original RGB signal.


#15

So mega, I’ve got an old 1988 Zenith TV that I took apart. Now I’ve got the casing off of the TV and I have 2 questions for you or anyone else that would know. What would be the best/easiest way to hold the chassis together because the chassis had screws that connected to the frame/plastic casing of the TV? There are 2 metal bars that are supporting the majority of the guts of the TV but now it’s kind of free standing. Secondly, how would I make myself grounded, or safe, from an electrocution or a shock from dealing with a circuit board that has amps/volts in it? Can I put rubber bands on my wrists or something like that?


#16

I’m asking the same thing in my last post and also adding another question. If I get this converter, http://www.jammaboards.com/store/cv-04-rgb-to-ntsc-pal-tv-converter-pcb/prod_253.html all I need to do is connect one end of this http://cgi.ebay.com/S-VIDEO-1-2M-4-FT-4-PIN-SVHS-MALE-TO-MALE-CABLE-ADAPTER_W0QQitemZ310170666310QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item48379cc546 S-Video cable to the TV and the other end to converter itself, right? And why does it look like there is no end on the power cable in that link?


#17

I don’t to be offensive here, so please don’t take any BUT:

If you have to ask how to connect an S-video cable to a tv, then this mod may not be for you. De-casing a tv an involved process, and can actually be fairly dangerous.

I think it might be a better idea to save up and purchase a 29" monitor. Easier to install, and safer.

What is your budget?


#18

No offense taken. :lol: Although I wasn’t asking HOW to plug in an S-Video, I was asking if there was something else that I need to do. I wanted to check if I had to do something special with that power cord because it doesn’t look like there is an end on it. And also there are 2 connections right next to each other. One is the RGB input but what is the other one for? As for my budget, buying all these little things would add up, but probably not close to what a new monitor costs, although even if I bought a new/used monitor I still don’t have the outer frame for it to be mounted to.


#19

I’m guessing that the DC power cable is expecting to be connected to a DC power supply of some kind. Most arcade machines have an internal power supply with screw terminals that supply +12 volts of power. You should check and see if you cab has this. If it does then that is where it will be connected. If does not then you can take a DC power pack from something that takes 12 volts and use it. You probably won’t even have to splice cables, just find one that fits in the socket. Then run the cable outside your cabinet through some small opening and plug it in when in use.

As for that white connector next to the RGB connector I am unsure as to it’s purpose. It may be an auxillary RGB connector for a different type of plug, or it may be used by the manufacturer to interface a computer to the pcb and flash it with firmware. In either case I would say you don’t need to worry about it.


#20

So here’s my new question for you SRKers out there, or mega since he’s really the only one helping. :wink: I have a Sega Naomi motherboard and I’m in the process of getting an MvC 2 cart but I want to use it in my jamma cab. Would the Sega Naomi I/O converter be better or the Capcom I/O converter? Now I do know that the Capcom converter runs power through the jamma connector and the sound is also taken care of, but what would be better for MvC2? Also, are all Naomi motherboards region free? And don’t forget that I would be using an older tube TV for the screen. Thanks again for any help in advance.