Can't think of a way to plug this hole (DIY Joystick)


So I’ve made a few changes and pretty much finalized what I’m going to call The Woodsman MK II. (Hardware store special edition)

Anyway I’m fairly happy with everything but the hole I had to make for the cord.
Does anyone have an idea about making a semi permanent gap filler for the hole?

The cord isn’t at risk of being pulled (I’ve got it clamped down inside as you can see). It just looks kind of bad to have that gap in there.
I worked in a hardware store for 4 years but can’t think of a good way to cleanly bridge that gap.

Pictures below (Yes, inside is kind of messy and the hinges probably should have been inset, also I quite like my handle for functionality heh)




Get a Neutrik or Switch Craft USB passthough


Unfortunately there are 11 wires in that bundle though. It is not just a USB.
That wire splits into a Playstation 2(7 wires) and a USB(4 wires) plug so the wires for both ends are bundled. :<


Step 1: Throw away ZD Encoder.
Step 2: Install PS360+.
Step 3: Use a panel mount pass through.


The ZD Encoder is cheap for a reason.


You could also UFB that stick. Though you’d probably want several extra buttons if you went that route. Since PS/Home, Start and Select are used, three more inputs would be L3, R3 and TPkey.
Whatever you do, toss that ZD encoder.

I mean, why do all that work to build such a nice looking steampunk esque controller cabinet, but not buy the best PCB you can get to pair it up with? That’s like buying a Ferrari shell and sticking a Hyundai engine in the Ferrari :confused:

  1. Get rid of spliced cable
  2. Get regular USB cable and PS2 extension cable
  3. Solder USB wires and PS2 wires to board
  4. Connect to Neutrik USB passthru and RJ45 pass through
  5. ???

More work, less money. Alternatively get a better PCB.


That handle is going to get in the way of any pass through solution.

Might as well get creative with some rubber or spare dust washers.

EDIT: Actually, fuck it, take the handle out, make the hole bigger and install a plate or cover of sorts to mount a DB15 connector.


Sorry, I should have probably mentioned that I’m short on money and out of work at the moment so I’ll have to wait on upgrading the PCB.

I don’t have an objection to doing that though.
After looking through your solutions I see the newer models really have a lot of cord options via specialized connectors.
It is nice to see that people are making PCBs to make having a multi console stick easy.

d3v, the DB15 is a fairly good idea too. My handle can be unscrewed and I think I could mount a DB15 and inset it a bit without needing a plate.
The wood on the sides is 3/4 inch so there is plenty of space to Dremel in a recess for the connector.

I did think of a temporary solution yesterday (I wasn’t leading your guys on, the idea just came to me)

  1. I’ll find a brass or yellowish washer with a center just big enough for the cord.
  2. Put two pinholes in it with a drillpress (just big enough for 2 furniture tacks)
  3. Slice into it so I can open it and get the cord in
  4. Pinch and solder it back together
  5. Use the furniture tacks to mount it to the base.

That should work I think until I can afford the more professional PCB and connector options.

What is bad about this ZD encoder by the way?
I’ve not had issue with it yet but I’m no expert beyond the occasional MAME/Playstation/Xbox 360 shmup.


I’ve read the ZD Encoder works great with the PSTV, so there’s that. Definitely cheaper than buying a broken Sixaxis controller and an AXISdapter from Toodles. Plenty of good PSTV-compatible PSP arcade collections on the PS Store, except for Gradius Collection (in the US, anyway).


Nothing per say, but with everything you get what you paid for and the ZD Encoders are very cheap.
I know quite a few people who complain their ZD Encoders have the issues or stopped working.


Use cotton balls and hot glue. Maybe some glitter.


Only had some gold glitter. I figured a more bold color would have just been tacky.
This is what the pros are using eh? I’m sure I’m supposed to import it from Japan or I’ll catch flack for that too.

Might help with the Cotton game series I suppose.


Clap. Clap. Clap. :slight_smile:


If it works


Cotton ball fell out and got glitter on the carpet. Used a brass fitting instead. :disappointed:
Should be OK until I can buy a better board and route out a connector.

I ended up cutting a slice in a brass wheel caster socket shown here