Changing spring on ls-32?


#1

Having trouble changing the spring. had the whole thing apart. I see the spring is housed underneath, with this little black guard holding the green thing on. I tried to get this little black guard off with no luck, and nearly broke it. so can anyone tell me how I’m supposed to change out my spring? thanks.


#2

I believe in the proper tool for the Job.
You would need C-clamp pliers for an external c-clamp.


#3

i got it off, now i can’t get it back on. this is really infuriating

EDIT: NVM, i raged too hard and threw it against the wall. maybe next time.


#4

Damn dude, you could just get an E clip from Home depot or something that would fit instead of the e-clip. Is the stick busted now?


#5

Yup. and ordered another one exhales cig smoke I’ll keep that in mind next time…


#6

How did you get it off?


#7

pried it off with a screwdriver. i had tried pliers before that


#8

No, I do not mean normal pliers. C-ring or snap ring pliers

http://www.jtote.com/images/9/6/9/9691d1a85adb7e29aa0c71968bb4e89f.jpg

See that prongs on either side of the opening on the snap ring?

http://kowal.itcom.pl/foto/joyLS32-RH8.jpg

You put the prongs of the Snap ring pliers in there, and as you squeeze the pliers, it opens up the snap ring.

Then you can do your mods. You can place the snap ring the same way it came in, or you can buy a e-clip that would fit

http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/img/large/dor/44633-007.jpg

7/16" sized e-clips should fit a LS-32 shaft as a replacement for it’s snap ring.


#9

I use 3/8" E-clips for my LS-32’s.

Use whatever size you feel comfortable. I ended up using the 3/8" because I felt the metal on the other size E-clip I tried was too thin.
Still ended up ruining a 3/8" E-clip a while later. Take them off enough OR get a particularly stubborn E-ring and they can be bent. I use a rag to put the E-rings on my LS-32’s; keeps my fingers’ skin from being bruised or cut. They’re cheap enough that I buy at least 2-3 when I get them.

The C-ring’s totally useless. Still don’t know why they use the part on the LS-32. All the other Seimitsu joysticks use E-clips.

Shouldn’t have to remove the E-clip unless you want to change springs or torque up the tension with another LS-32 spring or halves of another spring. Screwing halves of another LS-32 spring onto the ends of an intact LS-32 spring works for me… also have gotten decent tension with a spring-and-a-half.

Probably will be years before I have to touch the springs again…


#10

It seems the LSX series were discontinued but:


#11

There only a few cabs that used the LSX series.


#12

LSX… New one for me. Never heard of it.
It’s definitely not on the the Seimitsu catalogs I’ve seen and I’m 100% sure Akihabarashop.jp doesn’t have it now, either.

Any huge differences between that one and the other LS joysticks, or is it pretty much another duplicate joystick that’s just not really needed (like the LS-58 arguably)?


#13

They are in seimitsu catalogs, and they have a different purpose that regular joysticks, thats why not a lot of arcade parts dealers carry them.

LSX joysticsk are most often used in crane /ufo catcher type machines. or older games that use a pushbuttons on the joystick itself. and LSX-57 joysticks are NON-ROTATABLE. meaning, unlike common joysticks, this doesn’t spin around.

http://www.gremlinsolutions.co.uk/gremimages/LSX-31super.jpg

for retro game and ufo catcher/crane/claw type redeption machines.

http://www.tops-game.jp/part/img5/lsx-57_1.gif

http://www.tops-game.jp/part/img5/lsx-57_2.gif

these are what seimitsu sells these days, at least, this is the only LSX that isn’t discontinued yet, the reason for the holes is that it is to be fitted with “Flight stick” type handles. Basically, Virtual-On joysticks. hence the non-rotatable build,

you fit the shaft into these

usage, on a Virtual-On hori controller.