Changing the spring on my LS-32 - trials and tribulations


#1

After putting a bat-top on my LS-32, the mushy-ness became too much for me to handle. After perusing these forums a bit, I figured changing the spring might solve my problems… easy, right? Wrong. Here are the Chronicles of Gabrius, eternally to be told on the stage of history…

**Problem 1 - the C-clip:**What the hell was Seimitsu thinking?! This is the dumbest little piece of metal ever created… perhaps the bane of my existence. Took me about a half hour to figure out how to remove it, and about another half hour to figure out that there was no way in hell I was ever going to get it back on again. Luckily, finding an E-clip to replace it didn’t pose too big a problem, but why Seimitsu… WHY!!!

**Problem 2 - LS-56 springs do not fit the LS-32:**Ok, so had I looked a bit more, I would have known this before ever placing my order with LL, so this one’s on me. To compound the problem, once I found out that I would need an LS-55, I promptly go back on LL and brainlessly order another LS-56 by accident?! Once I got my brain sorted and ordered the correct spring, though, I was completely unprepared for…

**Problem 3 - LS-55 springs do not fit the LS-32:**What. The. Fuck. This is supposed to fit, Shoryuken - you told me it was so! What’s the problem, you ask? The issue now is that this:

will not press down far enough for me to get the damn E-clip back on the shaft. This is happening because the LS-55 spring’s diameter is such that it sits nicely on the top portion of this:

instead of fitting around it. After a little agonizing, I came to the conclusion that I was gonna make this happen… by filing down the actuator:

^ I took about that much off. Sweet, the E-clip will snap in place now. All is good, right?
**Problem 4 - lack of a wire harness, design blunder # two:**All of this hard work convinced one of the wires glued to the contacts to take a hike… wait, why the hell are they glued to the contacts in the first place?! Ok, ok, let’s not panic, just strip a little shielding off, the wife has a glue gun, easy peasy. Crisis averted, but still, glue… REALLY?!

Problem 5 - Too… much… resistance:…now the stick barely moves, requiring the strength of Hercules to even budge it. Something’s not right. The fat part of the actuator is now positioned in a way where it makes contact with the gate. Let’s try removing the gate… okay that works awesomely, and sweet, true circular movement! But, like momma always told me, if something sounds too good to be true, it probably is - one game of Pacman CE DX later, and now I know… the stick jams if pressed too far in any direction. Shit, time to put the gate back on, but how to fix it? Upon further inspection, I notice that the main guide:

has 4 protrusions around the hole… perhaps those are what were restricting movement? Lets try and file this down some:

Oh. My. God… it worked? Errrr… I mean, of course it worked! Although…

**Problem 6 - diagonals still jamming:**Awesome, now we’re getting somewhere… well, almost. Diagonals are still sticking a bit, but nowhere near as extreme as before. I think I know how to fix this one as well… just a little more filing:

Taking just a wee bit off here should do the trick, although it’ll probably just correct itself after breaking it in a little. Either way, MISSION ACCOMPLISHED… hopefully.

So there you have it, the (not so) easy process of changing the spring on my LS-32. Ladies & Gentlemen of the SRK, what the hell did I do wrong? Wasn’t this supposed to be open stick > take clip off > replace spring > put clip back on > done? I knew I should’ve made a left at Albuquerque…


#2

I know that little bugger is a pain second only to the wraith of the Gods.
But there are c-ring pliers for this purpose (right tool for the job). There are 2 main kinds, external and internal c rings, you would want the external since they apply pressure from the outside.


#3

You know, you REALLY shouldn’t have modded the actuator :bgrin:


#4

fffffuuuuuuuu… wait, why? Is my stick gonna kill me in my sleep for dishonoring it? Must I prepare yet another blood sacrifice? DAMNIT!!!


#5

I modded someone’s seimitsu once…after 10 minutes getting it off, and swapping the spring…and then an hour of fighting to get it back on, i got it back on.
C clips can certainly rot.


#6

First of all, calm down.

A bunch of people have dealt with the LS-32-01 without having a public conniption over it…
There’s an article about the various arcade parts here => Joystick Controller - Joystick and Button Attributes and Brand Parts

Further down, that same article on the link has a list of parts that are compatible or interchangeable with the LS-32 series joystick.

Oh, and throw away the C-clip and replace it with a 3/8" E-ring… You can get E-rings from a local hardware store or online.
The tools to remove/tighten C-clips generally aren’t worth the money; I find that C-clips wear out over time IF you take them off for servicing the joystick or changing the spring tension anyway. The E-ring will secure the actuator fine and will NOT bump into the joystick gate, either.

I’ve modded near a half-dozen LS-32-01’s this way and the E-ring’s were definitely good pieces to buy… Much easier to take off and put back on than the C-ring.


#7

Shaving down the edge on the actuator just a teeeeeeeeny bit solved all of my problems. Wow…this whole ordeal a lot more difficult than I expected.

-but the result was well worth it :slight_smile:


#8

This does seem like too much work. I run LS-32s and hadn’t really been bothered by the tension. I would think that failing everything else you could double up with 2x LS-32 springs like people do with the JLF.


#9

I’d rather go the full hog & make an LS-36 than cut an actuator mm-by-mm.


#10

I’ve done that Kyle but felt the tension was too great. I need the ability for the stick to snap fast when I’m doing dash moves for games like the Darkstalkers series. I stick to one spring (LS-32 spring) or a spring-and-a-half (still LS-32 spring only).

I still have problems with the JLF… Just not liking the JLF as much as the LS-32-01 or the LS-40-01. The JLF has issues with looseness, the microswitches, and the square gate guard that I just haven’t been able to feel comfortable with. The JLF is fine for Street Fighter 4 and Marvel Vs Capcom 2/3 but not so good for the vintage 1990s CPS-2 fighters or the SNK games I like to play (Samurai Shodown). I probably will buy the optical PCB from Toodles and get two LS-33 springs – I 've read some people say they help the tension issues with the JLF without being overbearing. (Not gonna put both LS-33 springs in the same JLF… Probably will pair them with one JLF spring or LS-33 spring by itself to see if there is any improvement for me.) Right now, my last two remaining installed JLF’s are double-spring modded (JLF springs). Those JLF’s are in my original MvC2 PS3 joystick plus the first T5 mod I finished. I’m switching the stickless bases I have to LS-32-01 or LS-40-01. I’m just not feeling love for the JLF… The LS-32-01 and LS-40-01 I feel are better fits for me.

I think overall that the Seimitsu joysticks work better for me because of the levered microswitches. Gives them an additional amount of tension and makes it easier to use the square gates on those joysticks. The LS-40-01 is at times more difficult to use than the LS-32-01 but only because it takes much less effort in general to do a lot of moves with the LS-40… It’s not the joystick to use if you’re feeling stressed or tired. From what I’ve heard about the other LS-joysticks, I’m staying away from the LS-33 (too much like the JLF), the LS-55-01 which seems to excel at nothing (that I want), and the LS-56-01 which is a degree-and-a-half worse than the LS-40-01 which I’ve gotten more comfortable with…


#11

I would like to add that I installed a JLW spring on my LS-32, and a ROUND gate along with a Metal Bat Top.

I emphasize the Round gate because although the JLW spring adds excellent tension, (and is an easy “drop in” replacement for the stock spring) it is actually prone to a singular “sticking/jumping point” when using a square gate.

With the round gate this is a non issue.

Because the throw is shorter, and the microswitches engage quicker on an LS-32 the round gate is an almost UNBELIEVABLY good choice for this stick.

Tricky Ultras like Dee Jays Climax Beat are now ridiculously consistent with this setup.

The Metal Bat Top adds the icing on this Seimitsu cake as it’s added weight really makes this configuration SILKY SMOOTH.

Anyway for you fellow LS-32 warriors I cannot recommend this setup highly enough!

Oh and definitely discard that cursed “C” clip as soon as you can. A 3/8" “E” clip is this sticks other best friend!

See you on XBL!


#12

Good necro from a thread I couldn’t remember. Glad to hear the JLW is a recommended spring. I honestly don’t have a problem with the stock. I’m sure it helps beef it up for the bat top.