They don’t just look good, they feel great to play on. blklightning really puts out a fine product.
Not the proper thread to ask for advice…looks like you have too much solder. Solder balled up like that have a tendency to pop off and take part of your pcb with it
Too much solder my friend. Also the wires should be relatively parallel to the PCB. You seem to have put the wires more perpendicular to the PCB so the wire is like a cherry on top of a solder icecream.
Wow, now that is nice. Really suits the stick.
This would pretty much be my 6th custom stick.
Was gonna post this up when I had all 4 currently-WIP custom sticks done, but at this point, god knows when my order from LizardLick will be shipped…
Appropriately named the “Neptune-stick”.
- Artwork from “Choujigen Game Neptune” (“Hyperdimension Neptunia”)
- Top panel is 14"x8.5" (legal-size paper in landscape view), casing is 15.5"x10"
- Wooden case, painted with a hammered-metal-texture gloss white
- All Seimitsu screw-in buttons; color-swapped parts for the most commonly used buttons
- JLF with GT-C circular restrictor and Qanba white dustwasher & shaft cover (I had one of Phreakazoid’s “The Link” shafts in there at the time of these photos; it has since been moved to another stick)
- Layout is NOT Vewlix; I play with the Straight-6 buttons, so this is a hybrid of the Capcom-US layout and the Vewlix (ie, take the Vewlix layout, align the stick to the middle of the button rows; shift the bottom row of buttons 7mm to the right to align it with the top row). I also prefer all my buttons on the face of the stick.
- Switchcraft RJ-45 pass-through with Neutrik rubber boot on the stick-side
- Unused 24mm hole covered by a blank Neutrik plate with rubber boot on the button side, both for visual symmetry and future expansion of connectors
- 1/4" rubber feet
- Exactly 2" tall (not counting the rubber feet)
- PCBs: Imp V2, MC Cthulhu, MadCatz 4716 controller
- All PCBs are mounted on an ABS plastic “mounting panel”
- Extra mounting panel available for addition PCBs
- Threaded inserts for all top and bottom panel screws
- My cleanest wiring job yet!
^^^ Nice work! Not much you could have done better me thinks.
Wiring could have been better of course, but that is not a serious issue as long as it works.
namco stick with an ls-33
TvC that i swapped out the MC switches for some seimitsu PS-14-D’s, aluminium battop and shaft and a GT-C circle gate. Undicked using some quanta’s.
How does it feel using a metal topped stick? it feel weird in hand at all? kind of curious. BTW what is all this “dick” business about?
Dick = <3
Tech Talk saying…
6 button is cool
8 button is “Dick”
How is 6 buttons cooler than 8? at least with an 8 button layout you have also got the neogeo layout covered. (well really 7 buttons would do for that but still…) this dick thing sounds a bit childish to me.
It’s just because 6 button is classic arcade style. Plus, 6 buttons gives you more room for artwork. And I’m pretty sure it’s all in good fun, nobody actually looks down on anyone for using 8 buttons.
7 button is “trap” (tranny)
it makes its a bit heavier and more bounce. i use 55 springs on both my JLF’s so it offsets it a bit. oh and forgot to show the bottom of the namco.
spray adhesive>hot glue in this case. learned the hard way.
Yea for bigger things like that, that you might need to readjust once applied spray adhesive really is the way to go. I remember reading or seeing somewhere that the best is to clean and spray the surface, spray some on the thing you are applying, and a little on your finger tips and that way you can move it around once it’s in place without it catching hold or sticking to your fingers. I used this method and it worked wonders for me when I putting artwork on my Standard Edition.
Here’s one of my sticks I just finished this week:
I used the round one SF4 TE as my base:
I used Seimitsu screw in buttons for the 1st six buttons and the stock Sanwa stock for the last two: