@kaihong Can you measure the case dimensions?
@kaihong Can you measure the case dimensions?
The entire case is plastic. In fact it is basically all rubberized outside. The sides/surroundings of case can be removed much like the TE stick. Perhaps those that wish to have wooden sides can mod it like so. To do so, I believe the screws are inside the case if accessed from the bottom and they would be along the side walls. The stock stick is very poor after playing all night. The spring is too loose and that gives the impression of a large distance (throw/engage). It felt less large when I dropped the battop for a ball top. When you press the stick downwards into the body of the case and then move the stick slowly, it makes a squeaking noise as it grinds itself away. My guess is that there is no lubrication at all as it feels exactly like a ball joint from Lego/K’nex. The buttons do a bit better in terms of quality. However, for quality, they are no better than those of Madcatz SE stock buttons as they stick to the bottom sometimes, stick to the sides sometimes. In general they press down well (somewhere between sanwa and seimitsu buttons in terms of feeling) but the problem lies in how the button comes back up.
Confirming that the art is printed under the plexi.
The LED boards are held down by two clips on bottom of the button. You can see the clear ticks/taps are north and south of the button rim just beside the holes on the wall. The portion of PCB that exist under these clips is very minimal therefore taking out these LED boards would be a delicate process. My attempts almost rendered this button broken. Also, in order to remove the microswitch you must remove the LED boards first. Since I couldn’t get the boards out by hand (no tools on me other than a screw driver) I was able to compare the microswitches to Sanwa ones. However I do suspect that the microswitches are interchangeable.
^aaaannnd… those seem to be the same exact qanba buttons from Q1 minus the clear color and LED pcb+extra hole for the JST connector.
The microswitches are very similar to what seimitsu/hori uses. And I did try Sanwa switches on qanba buttons and it does fit.
its just strange to me that PDP uses qanba parts… I wonder what kind of deal went through lol.
Awesome. Thanks for all the pics kaihong. Is there a compartment for the detachable cord? Is the artwork glued on? On top, under the art, are there screws for the JLF mount? What’s the pulse setting for the lights do?
No compartments for storage at all. Detachable cord is the USB to USB mini B.
USB mini B goes into the stick.
The art is paper under the plexi. Removing the snap in buttons has resulted in accidentally damaging the art where the clips existed. I will open the top panel after I find a hex key of proper size. It is too small from my standard set of tools I will have to buy a micro set of hex keys probably used for RC car parts.
Pulse is not working for me at all. It functions the same as OFF at the moment.
@kaihong : Thanks for dissecting this stick! Do you mind if I post your pics & quote you in the Injustice thread I created? Or if you have the time, you can do so yourself here:
I’ll get right to it.
Portal themed arcade stick with Seimitsu buttons all round and LS-32-01 stick.
Holy shit Sam!
@b15sdm That stick is no lie. Gorgeous!
@b15SDM SOOOO SICK !!
Beat me to it. Absolutely incredible.
I have to ask, how hard/easy was it to install the smoke side panels into the TE? I wanna get some for my TE in the future and was wondering what kind of potential labor I might be looking at, easy or hard haha.
@.Cobra it’s not that hard at all you just have to unscrew a good amount of little screws.
I’d say it’s a pain, rather than difficult. Although…
@chubbzer I would like to ask, though, as I think I may have missed something - the ends of your sides (if you see what I mean) seem flush with the rest of the case. I’m going to be taking mine apart again, as there are gaps at either end - as if the sides are bowing outwards - where the tips of the sides do not meet the case properly. It could be that I’ve missed a clip, or somesuch, so any tips to get them to fit properly would be appreciated…
Thanks for posting more pics of the injustice stick…
So far so good, I already have an idea where I am going with it.
Sanwa Microswitches (looks easy to remove those PCBs with a jewlers flathead)
Clear plungers (already got them)
JLF swap (maybe just parts of the JLF… not the whole thing)
Add weight… I am thinking perhaps getting a metal panel cut for the top to go under the plexi… maybe possible, maybe not…
if not then BB’s in epoxy resin filling the spots in the bottom…
You might want to reconsider the plungers. They aren’t the same size as sanwa ones.
hey dude. it looks cool. Dont downplay yourself. It doesn’t have to look like B15’s or Foehammer or anyone else out here. You put in work on your stick man, it’s cool.
@kaihong Saw that after the fact… Hmm… Switches just for now then.