Check Out My New Arcade Stick! (No Image Quoting)

I made them myself. I found a wooden bed frame out in one of my neighbor’s trash. Took me about 3 tries to cut the wood with the right cuts & that 45% cuts on its side. Sanded it, wiped it down then added 3 coats of walnut varnish & 4 coats of acrylic clear . Bezel was purchased off our fourms with the 1/32 plexiglass. Buttons also purchased off the fourms with dust over & sleeve. 2 coats of Silver paint from lefted over automotive spray paint & 2 coats of acrylic clear . Artwork by my guitarist

Simple, but I like it. All silenced and smoked out :slight_smile:

“grand finals huh? be a pitty if i… STOPPED WORKING HEH HEH HEH!”

I really like how this paint came out. Used spray paint and had to squeeze firm and gently for it to spray right.

What do you mean? That’s how you win…lol

Hello everybody.

It been a while since I have last posted and visited this forums, but it is good to see that the community has grown. Well anyway, just want to show you a box that I have completed which is a wireless Project Diva controller.

Wood is .25" thick hardboard and acrylic sheet .08" thick.

Paint I used for the case is color shifting. Under normal lighting it look dark grey…

… but in direct sunlight you see the color shifting.

Closeup of the color shifting paint.

Bottom of the box is painted satin black and has small hinges and a flush pull ring.

Here is the box opened… I used a roller catch to secure the lid.

Upper left is a 18650 battery and upper right is LED player indicator. Bottom center there are two slide switches… one is for trigger guard (enable/disable side buttons) and the other is for lighting (on-off-when pressed).

Here is a button light up when pressed…

… and here are the button lights when always on.

Quick facts:
-Box measurements are 8.5" X 10.5" with 2.25" in height with rubber feet. Without rubber feet, it is less than 2" in height.
-Buttons are OBSF-30Q (have to source the clear rims from another set of Sanwas), PS-14-DN-K (LB & RB), PS-14-KN (LT & RT), and 18mm anti-vandal switches (select-home-start).
-Controller I use for padhack is a generic wireless ps3 controller I bought on eBay.
-Controller was not common ground, so I used a combination of optocouplers and resistors to make it common ground.
-Triggers is a bit of an issue to convert to common ground properly so I just directly wired it.
-Reason I added buttons on the side of the box is because pinball :).

Thank you for reading and any feedback is welcome.

-'Member when Photobucket hosted pictures for free?
-Oh, I 'member.

Beautiful. Genius. We have a winner. Everyone else go home. B)

Have to say, after uploading my own gameplay vid I was actually looking at Hatsune Miku controllers yesterday so this post was perfect timing. I won’t link to my vid since that will seem rather self-serving, but “hatsune miku multiscreen” should get you there…

And now for my new (actually, 15+ years old) stick: my Tekken Tag Tournament stick. Been in storage since my triangle button stopped working.



Comparison with my other old Hori:




Can I really not get six buttons out of this thing?


The plan is to learn how to do harder mods with this beyond just simple button and lever swapping… I’m not the solderer in the family… :s

Finally said “Fuck it” and tanked the shipping from Tek Innovations and Focus Attack so I can finally make the mods I’ve been planning for over a year now to my TE2. Will post pictures as soon as my parts and art arrive, which should be next week.

@JesseJames finally somebody doing it right with the sanwa Q buttons. great looking mod there, you win. will nominate this for stick of the year ngl.

Very yes, dude. Awesome. Definitely done right.

@JesseJames That thing is beautiful.

JUst wrapped this up last night…just in time for dat BETA drop.

Pretty sure this is the first Rivals TE2 conversion to hitbox:

Entire gallery here:

Parts used:

  • Rivals TE2 PS3/PS4
  • 11x Sanwa OBSF-24
  • 1x Sanwa OBSF-30
  • JLF-to-stickless harness from
  • Custom-designed panel made by Amp Up Customs before it shut down

Layout is of my own design - I found the official hitbox design to be messy and inconsistent with button spacing, so I built a strict Vewlix version and it feels worlds more comfortable. Art came from the SFV concept art (you can find it all by Google image searching for 5351x3010 resolution), added white legends, and had it printed by the creative dept’s $10k Epson at my office. Sprayed a few layers of acrylic over the top to keep it preserved as well before it went under the plexi. Very simple operation overall, but Mrs. Rageous loves it. Her Ibuki execution has improved noticeably in the first hour she’s been using it.

Finally got my Xrd TE2 all decked out with Evo swag.

Sanwa OBSC Buttons with OBSMX Red CherryMX switches , they feel so good. And a LVT3 underneath.

Tried to go with a Red/Orange/Yellow setup on button presses to emulate a flame.

My friends told me to make a Sol stick, as he’s my reluctant main in Xrd, and I vowed never to put together a Sol-themed stick. This is about as close as it gets.

Got my parts from FocusAttack today and installed them into my TE2.

Hori Hayabusa with yellow JLF ball top
Translucent yellow HBFS-G2s with Crystal caps (first 6 have Cherry MX blue, last 2 have Red)
“Bumblebee” Sanwa OBSF-24

Now to just wait on my dustwasher, artwork and button inserts from Tek-Innovations. After that, all I’ll need are some yellow side panels, yellow bezel and an LED board from MadCatz.

Simply amazing, I’m inspired To the fullest

Had this one done after EVO last year

And I did this one myself, just finished last night. The Q1 has little plexiglass caps over the screws and I sliced up two of my fingers getting them out. Oops.

What template did you use for the Q1. Did you buy a plexi for it?

Finished my custom hitbox somehing like a week ago. It was an experimental project to see if I would like hitbox style controller. I am quite happy with how it turned out but I am not happy with standard buttons layout so I am currently making some of my own custom schemes.
Once I get that done I plan to make new box. A bit more advanced one. No twisting wires together, no soldering, just plug in wires. And also able to take bottom and top panels off (I can currently do that only with bottom one).

Had few accidents along the way. Current PCB is almost demolished because at first I’ve cut off analog sticks what caused problems. Then I had to solder it back. It was a bit hard because I had to put several pins inside board with 2mm distance in between and then solder tiny wires to them without wires touching each other.
Then shoulder buttons broke off, wire was torn off. So I had to do similar thing there…
Somehow I got it all fixed and patched and its working.

My next box is going to be a bit more expensive and prettier since this was just an experiment.

Everything cost me under 40 bucks. Just buttons were 32 bucks (with shipping). All other material I already had and some tools I borrowed. Some parts were custom made, like part that holds bottom panel and allows me to open it by unscrewing.

I would also like to thanks to few members on this that helped me by answering my questions and providing me with valuable suggestions:
Everyone in this thread: Where to buy very cheap arcade stick buttons?
And people in this thread: Absolute Question and Answer Thread v.3 (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

Here are few images of my box:


Bottom part, can be easely taken off:

That corner part is custom made by friend of mine :slight_smile: .


New button layout I am trying on cartboard and I like it a lot. Only think I might adjust is button far left. Not sure if it properly fits my pinky.

Here’s are controls setup:
I play Mortal Kombat X mainly and here is my controls scheme on gamepad:

Red colored text represents buttons I always keep my fingers on. So they are instant.

And here’s on my custom hitbox layout I am making:

Red colored text represents buttons I always keep my fingers on. So they are instant.
Light red colored text represents buttons that I have fingers on but those are pinkies, slightly less responsive since I keep them relaxed. But still basically instant.
Green text is orientator for my right hand. This way my pointer and middle fingers are in between 1,2 and 3,4 buttons (left of green one).

Only thing I am not fully sure is about that button far left. Might need to put it just a bit lower.
But I am very comfortable with this layout :). I prefer having all main buttons on instant press instead of moving my fingers around. But I also want to have my hand and fingers in relaxed pose.