What the knobs do?
The knobs are connected to the rotary switches, which allow me to select which PC board and/or IC to operate, thus allowing it to be a multi-console stick.
That’s a wild way to get multi-console support.
:tup: for the ingenuity.
Surely a weapon to surpass Metal Gear!
Nah forget about the ls32-30 restrictors, they’re inspired by the same design but there is better in terms of similarity.
I was really surprised to see the pics of the JLB since they look almost EXACTLY like the Asahi (?) made joysticks for Nintendo cabs (arcade parlour rats like myself have played on these). Pivots are metal washers, restrictor gates are metal ( with a similar cutout), the main body is old style as many other models have this structure made of steel plates . There are apparently only minor differences between the Sanwa JLB and the Nintendo : the microswitch positioning is slanted for Nintendo, square for Sanwa; the Nintendo shaft+balltop assembly is slightly different (brass part&pin) . There are small leveling plates for the microswitches on the underside of the Nintendo sticks, if you look at the parts closely.
I’m not a big fan of metal gates , also most plastic actuators will wear off like crazy against such gates ( as in AES sticks, with the LS-30 clone that has a steel plate/restrictor with square pattern, with a nylon actuator (later seen in LS56) rubbing directly on the internal edge of the cut steel plate). As opposed to a Seimitsu AES ls30 steel plate (not the nylon part that is similar to the ls32 part) the Nintendo restrictor seems to be brass (or brass plated ). Too soft of a brass it seems, since old nintendo restrictors are generally all indented and worn .
To check out the nintendo sticks, there’s a very nice page on forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=226360 dedicated to restoring those retro cab parts.
Just for the sake of comparing the general shape and restrictors (if linking to another forum is not permitted), here are some pics of the Nintendo stick :
I’ve been told they were made by Asahi, but needs to be confirmed. Perhaps the gates are compatible with a Sanwa JLB? Get also a look at the blown up diagrams for various Nintendo/Playchoice sticks :
Here’s the 8-way model :
Will post more detailed pics & info in their respective threads, but I just wanted to share that I’ve finally gotten all the pieces of the triforce ▲ (and then some) together:
sick. but the anal in me says you need those light-grey HORI 24mm’s from the VF4Evo sticks, to match the PS2 Virtua.
@hibachifinal it’s on the list, trust me.
Thanks x2 for making my VLX pretty.
Man there is some really awesome looking stuff in this thread.
Here is my recent project. Basically, I took my old TE that was quite literally destroyed aesthetically, and built a new stick out of its components. I ordered a clear top panel replacement (replacement, not a cover) from a guy in Canada that hooked it up big time with a great deal that nearly matched the TE round 1 layout. Took the PCB’s, buttons, wires… all of the guts out of the TE and just made a new build with wood. This was my first time ever working with wood at all… I’ve never had to do any kind of work with wood before. There are lots of imperfections but I am happy with the result of my labor. My next build will be much much much cleaner. There will be better accuracy in cuts, better stains and finishes and paint work, and cleaner insides… but here it is…
This is for those who struggle to choose between a fightstick and a fightpad.
I made a fightstick that is working on PS4/PS3/PC thanks to Hori Fighting Commander without removing its PCB from its shell, so you can still play on pad.
- SANWA JLF Joystick with KOWAL Oversized Actuator and GT-Y Octagonal gate
- SANWA OBSF-30 with silencers Dark Hai x8
- SANWA OBSF-24 Orange x4
that’s pretty creative mon
Put this together with extra parts and a storage container. It’s a Beatmania IIDX controller.
Jammed a USB Passtrough in a busted 24mm screw-on button
Played tons of Pendual Omnimix today and it works quite well. I play on the 2P side only. Blue buttons on the right are turntable + -. Will probably throw some silencers in the buttons later.
Way you did your USB connector is really out of the left field.
If I had a dremel I could make it flush. I made the hole 24mm so I could just put a neutrik passtrrough on it. I would have had one in my parts drawer , but the electronics store near me ran out of them.
@fundando That’s actually pretty funny. I was just thinking about building my own IIDX controller since my friend has been getting me back into IIDX. I’ve been using my hitbox to play Lunatic Rave 2.
Are those 24mm buttons? Why not go for 30mm?
Sweet. Can you post where you bought your ~24mm metallic buttons for start/home/select?
where’d u get those screws for the joystick?
They are all 30MM except for thee 24mm I shoved the usb into.