Check Out My New Arcade Stick! (No Image Quoting)


@Tomtortoise Thanks, most of the artwork I picked was because they were centred and would naturally work, or because they would look alright in the bottom right. I actually tried Googling last night to see if there were any suggestions on cutting cardboard and it turns out that a box cutter is actually really good at cutting cardboard so it only took 2-4 hours to cut the remaining art work:


Getting the black and pink was a pain, I painted the entire box blue, then painted a large pink stripe at the bottom before using masking tape to paint the black stripes on top. The final result looks okay but the issue is that because I used a lacquer paint, there’s a noticeable thickness difference between the pink and black which meant I couldn’t sand it all flat…quite annoying

Your directions for the buttons were mostly there :stuck_out_tongue: there was just an piece of common sense that you need to wire the button signal from the PCB to the NO switch which I lacked at the time

I might consider laser cutting next time for the top panel at least. I’m using 5mm thick abrasion resistant polycarbonate but even that is still easily scratched, I didn’t choose acrylic since I didn’t think I would be able to cut it without cracking it

For the art I basically spent several days browsing through most of the 50,000 images on Danbooru and the 10,000 images on Konachan. From all of this I only found 27 images that could possibly work as artwork, then I chose 3 to print out. The only issue is that most of this artwork was 1920x1080 artwork at 72ppi since it was meant for a PC desktop background. When printing out artwork you would want it at 300ppi which translate to something like 15,000 pixel width in order to get the best quality, which meant I needed to upscale the images massively to achieve the quality needed. Thankfully someone had created a website called waifu2x which uses a special algorithm to upscale images, but without noticeable loss of quality


My latest creation. Made out of an old Panasonic RL 7670 stereo reciever.

As always, thanks to Bryan and Sue at Paradise Arcade Shop for the awesome Sanwa metallic buttons/ball top as well as the Seimitsu LS-56 that went into it.


How much does this stick weight?


Please Don’t Quote images.
Thank you.




Recently, I’ve been looking at my collection of arcade sticks, and noted the severe lack of anything with American-style parts.

So I went back to the roots of my stick-building career, and dug up all the parts to my old Hitomi- and Xenosaga-sticks (see links in sig), both of which have been decommissioned for several years now.
Spent most of last Saturday at the table-saw and drill-press (probably the last good-weather weekend we’ll have here in Montreal before winter hits), and built the casing.

The goal was to put in as little additional funds into this, and to get this built with parts/materials I had lying around. The only “new” things I bought for this build were the printed artwork ($3), a 1-1/8" spade bit ($8) to drill the button holes (couldn’t find my old hole-saw), and the 8 plastic caps to cover up my screw tops($1).

Parts list:

  • custom wooden casing
    [] all wood is white melamine-pressed-particle-board
    ] top panel is about 22"x12", footprint is about 19"x10.5", 5-degree slant
    [] the far-end of the top panel is about 3.5" high, the close-end of the top panel is about 2.5" high
    ] hand-cut plexi
    [] Saint Seiya God Cloth artwork (been on a Saint Seiya phase lately)
    ] hinged top and roller-clasp for easy opening, with hand-made ABS support arm
    [] 1/8" ABS plastic bottom-panel
    ] 4x self-adhesive rubber feet (couldn’t figure out a good way to put in screw-in feet)
  • Suzo-Happ Competition joystick (might replace it later on with an older (not-Suzo)Happ Competition joystick that I have in storage)
  • 6x IL concave clear buttons
  • 1x Suzo-Happ concave 1P button
  • 1x Suzo-Happ concave 2P button
  • 4x Suzo-Happ concave white buttons
  • Silver Neutrik NAUSB
  • Black Neutrik rubber boot
  • DB-25 parallel port and plastic housing
  • carry handle



Left and Right sides:
Left side has L1 and L2.
Right side has Select, Home, and a currently not-connected button.

The wiring follows the same pinout as the project boxes I use for my ABS Modular Stick (see link in sig), so I didn’t need to specifically wire up any new PCB for this casing.

I gotta admit, it feels nostalgic to play with these parts. Playing SFV with these parts is surprisingly interesting.
Honestly, I don’t expect to use this stick much. It’s just nice to have the option.


Finally got a chance to take this to a local. Really happy with how it turned out.

BrookUFB Dual Modded with a PS360+ for PS2 and SNES

I was able to get these air pockets out by just taking out the screws and cleaning the plexi and the plastic underneath.


I’ll bet that lit up your night.


Loving that iron man and picade!


@FreedomGundam that’s amazing work right there!


@devastator Arcade stick! did a Black Walnut custom for a Friend of mine. awesome Stick and nice Size as well sharing sites


Does anyone know if Souji Stiks is still around? I ordered a custom stick back in July (and sent the money) but I haven’t heard anything from the guy in months, and not getting replies to my emails. Just trying to figure out if there’s maybe an email issue, or if I need to go to Paypal and initiate a non-fulfillment claim.


keep trying, hopefully he will get back to you


4 month?!
try to get your money back via paypal.


i dont wanna further derail the thread but…

this is his profile page here at srk souji5 aka soujisticks and shows last active 4 months ago

never heard anyting bad about him before, a well known custom builder, i would give him the benefit of the duobt and not label him a scammer.
he maybe ill, or maybe deployed with army, he may be in prison, or possibly even dead in a ditch or drunk in a bar in mogadishu

either way, 4 months of non communicatin is too long, go ahead and start the ball rolling with paypal

also post your case in the trading outlet to make other customer aware who are in a similar situation, in the **[WoS thread](Wall of Shame: Post Info on Scammers, Thieves, and Unsettled Transactions


Just got the PS3 HRAP VLX.

Small update; it turns out i got a free octagonal gate! Luckily I got a spare square gate.


Made some plexi cases, I’m really happy with how they turned out. If there is demand for them I might start selling them on SRK.

The red case measures 17.5 x 9 x 2.75 and the yellow is 17 x 9.25 x 2.75. The cases all come together like a puzzle and then they are screwed together to make them structurally stronger. The inner structure plexi and parts are .220" and the art panels are .093". Art can be inserted all around the case and even on the inside or you can remove the art and go for the clean clear plexi look. Plenty of room on the inside to do wiring and it even comes with a plexi plate that has plexi spacers to mount Brook boards or a PS360+. I’m sure you can mount other pcbs on the plate but I specifically designed it for the brook/ps360+ board because that is what I had on hand and it’s the most popular at the moment.


some might bash me for not keeping a VLX stock, this will come with me to the grave so here it goes

Im digging , wished I had a VLX Diamond though, but Im grateful for this

I scored the VLX on craiglist for dirt cheap

I’ll share more of my stick collection once I get around to it


^ I didn’t keep my VLX stock neither.

I don’t fully understand stick culture though. Why is it better to keep your VLX stock? I personally do not like the Kuro nor the Hayabusa buttons. The Hayabusa joystick is just fine IMO and there is nothing wrong with it, I just prefer Sanwa Denshi parts. I used Seimitsu for a little bit and they are good too, but I actually like the sensitivity of Sanwa Denshi.

I put Sanwa parts in my black one as soon as I fucking got it:

The character buttons didn’t have black rims, they all had different colors. I plucked the plungers from the original packaging and then inserted them into the clear smoke rims. Clear smoke rims are actually clear black (the smoke color is the plunger) so it went very well with my stick. The original colors would have clashed. I honestly wish I didn’t buy the char buttons…they were fucking expensive as shit. However I will say this. The buttons not only look way better in person, but the print quality of the art is actually fucking amazing. They of course can be held to the same standard as any other Sanwa Denshi button.

I also have that red VLX you have (it was my first stick). That Smoke Seimitsu bubbletop is killer, dude! I have the red one. I used clear red plungers and a solid black body. A red seimitsu bubbletop paired with red shaft and dust covers. I put the black one on top because of the whole red/black theme.

This is my red VLX:


Same I didn’t bother keeping it stock so I change it all to Sanwa. Kept all the stock button and buttons.