Chimp Issues After Months of Use

Here is a quick test, unwire and isolate both PCBs from a stick
Connect each of the PCBs to a USB cable and hook that up to a computer.

See if the PC detects the boards

Before harvesting a PCB from a game controller, always test the controller to make sure the controller (and thus the PCB) works before taking the PCB.
This will save you alot of time, frustration and money in the long term. Do the same with new boards for modding like the Chimp, Cthulhu, PS360+, Kitty, Cerberus and Paewang boards. Identify that all your boards work before you start modding, and if a board is bad return it for a exchange or refund before you start to tear apart pads and start to solder.

Also is the board you harvested a common ground PCB? The Chimp only works with common ground PCBs. [S]Well there a way to make common voltage boards work but it requires a bit of hackery with alot of diodes and transistors.[/S] Stick to common ground PCBs.

Protip: PDP/Pelcian pads are not common ground, nether are all Game Stop branded Pads, just Game Stop pads made by Mad Catz.

Another Tip: The most common wiring error is confusing or miss wiring the D- (white) and D+ (green) wires.
All ways double check your wiring, including your Xbox 360’s Data - and Data + lines. Make sure on the Chimp they are wired to the Xbox 360 USB terminals.
Side with the XD+ (GREEN) and XD- (WHITE) terminals.
If necessary keep reference materials open to keep on the right track.

USB Pin out and wire color codes.
pinouts.ru/Slots/USB_pinout.shtml

should have said this, did test the game controller before hand, on 360 as well as PC. Was a GameStop brand and the PC noticed it as a MadCatz. I don’t think it is common ground however. If it were not common ground wouldn’t the Chimp still bypass it and the Xbox 360 at least notice it?

feeling pretty dumb right now. I was going by this image for my wiring http://electroschematics.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/USB-cable-wiring.png
anyway, I just switched the D+ and D- lines and am getting the same results on the 360 as I was before the switch. When I plug the stick into my PC and force it to act as a 360 controller by holding down k1 k3 and p2 leds #1 and #4 stay lit.

When I get a lack of info I will make certain assumptions, base on the message and context of the message.

Anyways, this is getting odd. Just from reading your text alone I got no leads.
I would suggest to post photos of your wiring in the thread.

When you do make sure you turn on the Macro mode of your digital camera for close up shots, this way the picture is zoomed in and in focus.

Your better bet is to check out this thread

The official Cthulhu and ChImp thread - Try our new Dreamcast flavor!

See if someone in the past had the same issues as you. If so read what they did/ suggest.
If not post your question there and you will get more help than what I could give.

That image alone has probably single-handedly ruined 1000s of mod and other USB related projects thats to its incorrect Labeling. As per the PCB you used. If its not common ground then it will not work with the ChimpSMD. Please pick up a SFxT pad if you dont want any issues. they’re mad cheap now too.

Pro-tip - The ChimpSMD is printed with the correct USB colour guide on it.

I agree, please be a lesson to all other modders and potential modders on SRK.

DO NOT USE THE FOLLOWING IMAGE AS THE LABELING IS WRONG

The Correct wire coding and pinout is on
http://pinouts.ru/Slots/USB_pinout.shtml

I like to go with my old stand by,
[LIST=1]
[]NEVER EVER trust someone else’s labeling for system cord wire colors.
[
]Look up the pinout for the connector you are using (even if its USB)****
[*]Break out a multi meter and test which wire color goes with which pin. This goes double for PS1/PS2 controller cables and 3rd party controller cable extensions.
[/LIST]
Using this process even if you forget that Green is supposed to be D+ and D- is supposed to be White, you know exactly what wire goes to what.

I got some USB cables in the past with unconventional color wires or incorrectly colored wires before.
I gotten USB cables before that the color for the wire was BROWN, YELLOW, BLUE and RED.
Lucky for me, I tested out the pins and found that Red was vcc, brown was D-, yellow was D+ and blue was Gnd.

I also had a USB cable that has clear (as in the insulation was clear), transparent blue, transparent purple, grey and a wire that was not insulated.
Turns out that the grey wire was for the shield ground and the uninsulated wire was ground, blue was VCC, clear was D- and purple was D+.

At this point I am fairly confident there is a problem with my chimp.

I have wired the following controllers up to the VCC, GND, XD-, and XD+ inputs of the chimp and the results have all been similar if not the exact same.

-PDP versus fighter pad
-2 first party wired 360 controller

all controllers function fine when I go straight to the xbox 360 but when I plug it into the PC(holding k1, k3, p2) two leds remain lit and the controller is un-noticed by the PC. When I plug the chimp into the 360 the controller will flash then power off.

not trying to sound like a cock, but I do have a fair amount of experience with a soldering iron
https://sites.google.com/site/thinkapejr/
and this thing did just up and die out of no where on me after months of solid use on PS3 and 360. Is there any way I can contact Toodles other than this message board?

PS3 functionality still works perfectly fine

Sounds like the hex inverter that does the auto switching has gone bad?

Well… I’m baffled. Neither the PDP pad or official wired MS pads are common ground, so how your setup was ever working at all is beyond me.

Removing the stock 360 Brawlstick pcb was a mistake. That thing is perfect for dual modding.

Is it ChImp boards or ChImpSMD boards you have? Have you looked for problems in the USB cables? Have you tried updating the firmware?

Yeah do not use those. Use only pads and PCBs that are documented to be common ground.

I am clueless as you, I want to call shenanigans on this one.

Once you become a little salty with modding and electronic hackery you can test out a board with a muti-meter to check for common ground and which contact is ground and which is signal on each input.

As said before if it is not broken do not fix it. You should of left the default brawl pad in place.

I agree

At this point [S]I can’t[/S] We can’t help you (the OP) unless we get some clear and in focus photos of your wiring.
There obviously something there that isn’t adding up logically, and you ether do not know what to look for or you aren’t telling us anything.
Photos, provided they are clear and in focus should give us an idea what in the nine hells is going on.

Worst case scenario you might have to give it up and send your stick to a modder to look and trouble shoot.

I agree that it probably was a mistake removing the brawl stick pcb it seems to function fine when wired up by itself. Here is a screenshot just taken from when I wire the brawl stick up to the chimp, connect it to my PC and force the chimp to enter “xbox mode”

http://imgur.com/UW9xq,7lr4m#0
vcc, xd+, xd-, and gnd are the only connections between brawl stick pcb and chimp SMD

when I wire a usb cable to the brawl stick by itself and connect it to my pc it is seen fine

wiring of brawlstick to PCB below
http://imgur.com/rCNO5

screen shot of pc when brawl stick is plugged in by itself can be seen below
http://imgur.com/qnHKx

below is a screenshot of of my pc with me pressing the start button on my stick and moving the joystick. This shows functionality of the chimp smd
http://imgur.com/UW9xq,7lr4m#1

below is a screenshot of the pcb from my stick that the face buttons are wired to
http://imgur.com/mAqi4

this seems like it may be uncommon but if this is the case do you think it would be possible to exchange my chimp smd with toodles? Or at least exchange it for a nominal fee?

I have tried many different firmwares

the stick with the chimp was working fine for many months on all platforms before it stopped being recognized by the xbox 360

I guess Mr Mortified might be right, I looked very carefully, other than your soldering is kinda rough you did nothing wrong here.
And I see no straw wire strands or anything that could cause a short.

Try the cthlhu thread
The official Cthulhu and ChImp thread - Try our new Dreamcast flavor!


[SIZE=3]And ask toodles there****[/SIZE]

or you can PM Toodles and tell him of your problems. I can’t say if Toodles will give you an exchange, an exchange for a small fee or just put your damage chimp towards credit for a newer one. I will tell you is he going to try to get this thing fix before he will replace your chimp. ****

So i’m going to assume that in that first photo, inputted the force xbox console macro since its not glowing red and blue?
Definitely seems like an issue with the 4716 hex inverter. I’m not sure what kind of hex inverter you need, but you can ask toodles and if you’re steady enough for some SMD soldering or adventurous and use 30 gauge wire, you can put a new one in.

I don’t see why Toodles should replace the ChImp. “If you break it, you keep the 2 pieces”.
Unless the ChImp is proven to be faulty (which is going to be difficult since it probably was abused during install)

would that explain why it ceased functioning after a good six months of use? If I “abused” it, wouldn’t it have never even worked in the first place?

yeah it was forced in the first photo. I am assuming the hex inverter is the smaller ic of the two on the chimp?
http://www.nxp.com/documents/data_sheet/74LVC4066.pdf
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/74LVC4066D,118/568-8190-1-ND/2762880

edit: probably should have waited for a response, but I lifted the ground pin (pin#7) of the 74LVC4066 and got the same exact results, when testing out my stick. Functions fine on PC and does not properly switch to the onboard 360 controller

By “abused” I mean you may have burned some traces of the circuits. Are your wires securely tightened ? Two exposed wires could touch and make the circuit fail.

Anyway, the 4066 has nothing to do with voltage inversion, it is the chip taking care of switching the USB data lines. Some versions of the Imp had trouble with switching correctly the lines, but I doubt this is the case with your ChImp (never heard about this kind of problem for ChImps and your ChImp worked at the beginning).

Would like to thank mr. mortified and darksakul for all their help.

The mail finally arrived and I fixed my stick by removing the old 4066 and replacing it with one purchased here

I believe the part broke as a result of my drunk friend slapping the shiite outta my stick.

http://i.imgur.com/QAyek.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/mTFn6.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/iClkG.png

I don’t think this means too much but thought it was interesting that when I first plugged my stick into the PC with the new IC the computer saw it as “HIGH GRADE VIRTUAL STICK” or something like that rather than calling it “CHIMP SMD PC/PS3”. It only did that the first time I plugged it in though.

Would like to thank mr. mortified and darksakul for all their help.

The mail finally arrived and I fixed my stick by removing the old 4066 and replacing it with one purchased here

I believe the part broke as a result of my drunk friend slapping the shiite outta my stick.

http://i.imgur.com/QAyek.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/mTFn6.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/iClkG.png

I don’t think this means too much but thought it was interesting that when I first plugged my stick into the PC with the new IC the computer saw it as “HIGH GRADE VIRTUAL STICK” or something like that rather than calling it “CHIMP SMD PC/PS3”. It only did that the first time I plugged it in though.

it only does that if you hold a button down. this was in case chimps got patched out when sony changed their approved list of controllers

I’m having the same problem with my friends chimp. He gave me his dual mod stick so I can fix it, but I’ve never seen anything like this before. All the trouble shooting I’ve done also indicates the hex inverter is bad. I ordered a replacement on ebay too. Ill let you guys know when I replace it.

so i replaced the hex inverter and now the green led lights up when connected to the 360, but doesn’t settle on a player mode. i’m just going to write it up as the chimp being bad and need to be replaced