CPS 3 - Third strike, Battery Swap'n ?s

Who’s done it? How did you do it, Helper battery or game on? Was it an old cart (w/ wires) or a new cart (w/ out wires) ??? Did you replace w/ same power battery (3v or 3.6), or change to differnt voltage. How many have you done? succes rate?

There is no detail that is too specific in answering my questions. So please feel free to get crazy n’ shit.

I’ve got a dead cart :sad: … that I didn’t pay for:wgrin:, That I’m researching before I make the BIG MOVE!!!11!!1!!! on my own working cart. The dead cart is a new type of cart with NO wires, it has a 3v battery, and I’m steering towards the helper battery because I don’t know if I completely trust the powered on thing? Razoola has recomended that I step up to a 3.6v battery.

Demisitified! All batterys on cps3 and cps2 are 3.6v lithium batterys. There is no sized difference, they guy that was cutting out parts of the cartridge, as far as I can tell, was for easy swapping later on. Also, if indeed your board has the extra wires your going to need to reroute the ground from the negative battery terminal to another portion of the board (Get out your multimeter, just like most other boards most of the spare real estate on the board is one giant ground). Finally, I would really not suggest using the helper battery method, just do to the extra soldering being unnecssary. If you have a super gun and a cps3 with its casing, it should be a snap to unsolder the battery and drop the new one in (if you have a desoldering station that is). Finally, finally, I would suggest that if you or anyone else on this board needs it done and dont have the skills to handle it themselves, pm me and Ill do it for you!! I cannot guarantee my work since I am a poor engineering student, but I have changed 3 cps3 batterys and 2 cps2 batteries in my uncles lab. My prices are reasonable, and Im very confident I can change a battery without a hitch. Oh, and I have replaced both old and new style cps3 carts batteries. =)

If the cart DOES NOT have the 3 wires (red, black, blue?) then you don’t need to ground the negative battery pin while changing the battery w/ the game powered on, correct?


what do you charge for the swap out? As well, and just to be realistic about the whole thing, of the few batteries you have changed successfully how many have you failed? any? I think if you are offering a service thats great and needed, but maybe leave some more specific info please so people dont have to be worried that you will take the carts and swap with dead ones and apologize for a failed procedure. Thanks

If the board does have the wires then you need to reroute the ground from the negative terminal of the battery to another ground on the board. I usually do this by finding ground on the board, removing the solder mask (green stuff over the copper) with a tiny flathead screwdriver, soldering a small wire to that point, and then I solder that wire to the ground on the daughter board. At this point it should be safe to remove the old ground wire from the battery and daughter board completely.


I charge around $30 plus shipping back to swap a battery. I usually insist on having the whole system when I change it, since i do not use the helper battery method. I have changed 4 batteries for cps3, of that 1 has died. Normally when doing this I’m using my uncles equipment, nice soldering iron, desoldering station, etc. The day one of them died I was changing it in an arcade, my soldering gun died, and the only other option was to use a very much ruined soldering gun (rosin coated up to the very tip), I said to the guy that I did not want to proceed, but he insisted. Unfortunatley it ended in dismay. If anyone is worried that I might fuck them on their board/cart or that I may kill their device, I would suggest that they dont come to me to have the work done.

thanks grego, I certainly did not mean to imply you would do something so underhanded, just that it has happened and I think we can all agree that we have been burned at one point or another in our lives. Price sounds good man, do you not have a CPS3 set up? Only wondering cuz I hate getting in that cabinet and messing around with PSU and stuff. I’ll keep it mind for sure though, I need to get my new cart changed so it is really only a matter of time. Either this or that when you look at it. Thanks for the information, I’ll be in touch

I have my own cps3 board, but while im working I have the video output on an oscilliscope, you can tell the game has not been bricked by the attract mode flickering on the scope. If I put someone elses game on my system and it wasnt 3s Id have to install it to get the attract mode screen… you can see how that would become tedious, especially since id prolly have to reconfigure my memory. So for now, until I have a copy of all the games, Ill need the system to do the work.

hey grego
it is actually 3s that I need the battery changed in, still need the set up? If not, I will send it to you next week for the swap out. If you do need the set up then it may take me a little while to get in there in which case I will be in touch with you. Either way, thanks for the info. Let me know.

My cart is third strike, I never really messed w/ any of the other CPS3 games because they all blow (especially SFIII NG! it’s tied w/ SVC chaos and Street fighter 1 for worst fighting game of all time).

3S cart is the " new style" w/o wires, (I’ve been researching over @ neo-geo.com forums) the older games SFIII NG and JoJo’s have the wires. So I don’t need to ground the daughterboard? But I guess it wouldn’t hurt to either, to be on the safe side?

Some guy said he’s changed a bunch of third strikes ONLY, and said while changing it’s normal for the graphics to “drop out” or scramble? just proceed w/ the swap and when you cycle the power the game comes back on as normal? Your thoughts and experiences on this?

Thanks for the help/pic Grego

Isn’t there anybody else around here w/ something to add on this topic?

There will be no wires you need to fuck with. You just need to unsolder the old batt, and solder in the new one. I dont know about the picture going out or getting scrambled. Mine was on oscilliscope when I changed it, all I was watching was that the image continuously moved. The one time I changed a battery and it died the board was connected to an aracde machine, and I can say that if the screen freezes, your board could very well be dead. My thoughts are to be sure to change your battery on a ups if you can. If you lose power to that cart for a moment, its game over, the decryption information has been lost from ram and your fucked. Ofcourse should you see something “interesting” while changing the battery, just continue on finishing the job, just incase the machine is gonna make it out ok.

hey, I just bought this battery for my CPS2. I was reading the line when I saw a date on it: J L N-JAN-05. Does it mean that it died already or when it was made? Thanks

As requested by frog213, I am replying to this thread to offer my 2 cents.

The graphical glitches indeed may happen during a battery replacement using the MB power method. Simply continue on with your battery replacement and do not power off your MB until you have completed the process. Not doing so will guarantee your security cart to suicide.

The ground wire found on the 1st gen security boards can indeed be relocated but take care to not accidentally desolder the existing ground wire before you have established your alt ground. Any loss in ground will immediately result in a suicide cart. As it has been previously stated, this wire removal is done for easier future battery replacements using the soldering method.

As some poeople may not be comfortable in soldering, I have elected to use a battery holder in all of my battery replacements to address this issue. This alt method allows for all future battery replacements to be done without the need of soldering. Since the battery holder does take up more room than a standard 1/2 AA battery with axial leads, the CPS3 security cart casing will not snap flush unless it is modified. A whole is then cut into the back of the case to address this issue as well as allow easy access to the battery for the future solderless battery replacement process.

While both the backup battery and MB powering methods will work, I find the battery backup method much more convenient for myself and others. Using it requires only the security cart to be sent in for the replacement and not the entire CPS3 MB setup or its memory DIMMS.

While I have had 55 successful battery replacements, 10 of them have failed. To better illustrate, I have included a picture of some of the replaced batteries that I have kept. It is because of these failures that I have imposed a temporary moratorium on my CPS3 battery replacement service. I hope to make it available once again as early as next month. Thanks for reading.


I manage an arcade, so I was looking to swap it powered on w/ an arcade cabinet standard power supply. What the hell does everyone else do it on … a supergun/nova? How does the power work on one of those things?

The power supply will be giving the board +5VDC which sustains the decryption rom while the battery is swapped? How is arcade power different from what ever else is used by other people?

What the hell is an oscilliscope?


UPS is like a battery combined with a surge protector, you usually use one so that if the power goes out your computer doesnt immediatley lose power and can be shut off. I suggest putting the cabinet/super gun on one just incase.

An oscilliscope is a device that allows you to view electrical wave forms. The output of one of the colors can be fed to one and you can see a very terrible version of the picture moving on the scope.