Based on what I know, the CRT uses an analog rainbow “color curve” ( meaning continuous) which had however many points of definition in the curve. The more points, the more true to reality, storing voltages ranging from white to black, and 2 of these 3: red and cyan. Green and magenta. Or blue and yellow. And the third color axis is implied.
Also there are issues of line timing. First, on modern displays, it takes 8 ms to draw, but shows the whole drawing for the rest of the half frame. If you watch WWE do ultra slo-mo the screens on the upper deck alternate between on and off. And some slo mo cameras are high frame rate cameras.
It’s true a CRT draws the top half early and the bottom half late. Since the “big bucks and a spin” square on the top, you’ll get it a few milliseconds before the others. That’s why computerized versions of Whammy is hypersensitive to top portion appearing earlier.
It also depends on controller read rate. When there is only one input like the stop button, and it’s a one but controller, (it’s either pressed down or it’s not). Just because the screen is printed 60 times a second, doesn’t mean the computer is restricted to reading the controller only 60 times a second. Light guns read a screen (60 x number of pixels per screen) times per second. I know the more buttons used. The slower the controller read rate is. And I heard from speed runners that there are subframe input reads which effect your game.
Finally there are different typical reaction times. When you react to potentially ANYTHING, like a video game the first time through, your reaction time takes more milliseconds that if you’re “looking for something”.
Human reaction time is around 150-200 ms for something you’re anticipating, like a square lighting up, but reacting to something way more random Is a lot longer.
All I know is I can get Larson-like scores on a CRT TV and not on anything else I tried.
Is Whammy TOO HIGH of a standard? I know Whammy is 100 percent pure reaction using my strategy, and in fighting games, you can do some things proactively to tip the odds in your favor.
I guess a comparison is SF2 on a Genesis/SNES vs on a version which most people use non CRT TVs, like the SF30 collection. I guess that would be the fairest back to back test.
Test them both on their native mode, then cross up intended displays. Then we’ll find out the answer to this question:
Is SF30 actually quicker on a flat screen, warts and all, than converting it to CRT, because and milliseconds gained by draw time would be lost in conversion time, (and then some)?
I heard going between resolutions makes conversions laggy. If that’s the worst culprit. Then I need to find a resolution and frame rate mode that is compatible with HD console gaming, and find such a mode on a varisble CRT VGA monitor.
Finally is decoding the original HDMI signal into a VGA signal with the frame rate and a compatible resolution, (with come letterboxing) the best way to make a lag free console CRT monitor? Would any CRT VGA also work with consoles from the Wii U and before.
I’m willing to sacrifice light gun quickness for a high quality gaming monitor that is low ping enough for everything EXCEPT light gun games (maximum 1ms) that doesn’t take an American, Australian, or Soccer Football team to move up stairs.
I’m sorry if my terms are wrong, and I’m a newbie on such things, but enough games dropped in performance when I got my PS3DTV where I’m looking for something.
My computer history is an Apple IIe, and Atari 800 XL, then nothing until we got iMacs exclusively. So I never bought a computer monitor specifically. I don’t know what questions to ask about CRT VGA monitors, or what I’m looking for.
The main concern is possible resolution and frame rate settings. If a CRT is considered lag free on a CRT, then adding 1ms with the Hauppauge USB capture device should be good enough for everything except light gun games.
The smallest device I could find with a great non-light gun lag, that converts NTSC RF antenna signals into Composite video is a Sony Video8 tape player.
Also all the TV signal converters at Best Buy take digital ATSC signals and convert them to analog signals. But are silent on natively analog signals, like on the Atari 2600, Intellivision, Colecovision, etc.