Custom pcb??


#1

I started work on a custom PCB that’ll include dreamcast,ps/ps2 and xbox controllers. I’m still in the documenting phase though. My idea was basically to program a microcontroller with all the outputs and have a switch that determines which output to generate. Has anyone tried this before?U know,just so that i dont waste my time.
I does seem possible though.Keep you guys posted on my research.


#2

Don’t give up, despite what any people, corporations, or supervillains might say. I believe in you.


#3

If you get it to work you have struck gold. I’d order about 40.


#4

Damn you guys make it seem like the holy grail or sumthin. Its that hard? Good! I love challenges!


#5

Yes, it’s hard. I sure hope you know something about ASIC or FPGA design, quite frankly.

But the documentation is out there if you know what you’re doing! Good luck!


#6

I am familiar with ASIC and FPGA but i’m not rich enough nor do i have the time to use those types of IC’s. Like i said in my first post my intention was to use a microcontroller.More specifically a Microchip or Cypress brand 8 bit one. Asics would be a bitch and FPGA are way too powerfull for what i need to be done.Plus my intention is to make a DIY available to everyone and I doubt most people have 50000$ FGPA programmers in their basement( Fuck you to anyone who actually does…rich brats.)Thanks for the support!!


#7

I’m not sure how you could make it work, although it may be possible. The easiest way would be to somehow get information from the console, but that doesn’t happen. If the console were to communicate backwards (send electricity to the controller) it would be dead.

MAYBE each system uses a different voltage when powering the control which could be measured by a multimeter, and then you could build in a multimeter type device that would detect the power being given to the controller and distinguish which console it is that way.


#8

Good point.From what I see all controllers seem to be running under about 5V.But other than the power issue, the main thing i’m struggling with is actually coding the chip right now.The controllers seem to be running at different clock cycles.Getting all that into place as well as giving the right response is the main issue. I figured i’d leave it to the user to choose between which console to operate under.


#9

While we’re talking about custom PCB’s there’s a custom PCB I wouldn’t mind taking a crack at, but it requires someone to “donate” a Sanwa FLASH. That upgrade board…that’s the only difference between the standard JLF and flash. It’s probably not too difficult to reproduce, and do a group purchase from whomever is contracted to build them.

Too bad I’ll never get my hands on a board… :\


#10

GC, Xbox, Dreamcast and most other pcbs use 5v, the ps2 seems to use 3.3v


#11

I already posted the schematic for the sanwa flash in the p360 thread a long time ago.


Each transmitter portion: 
+5v-------220 Ohm--LED---GND
Each receiver portion:
+5v----Receiver*----+-----|>o------output to jamma/pcb
                    |
                    +--4700 Ohm----GND

|>o  is an inverter gate from the HC14.

The hard part is getting it laid out in such a way that some manufacturing house would actually make it. Take some measurements for the size and shape of a normal JLF pcb and try to fit it in a way that doesn’t require 2 mil tracks and 2 mil spacing between tracks :slight_smile:


#12

Its possible both with ASIC/FPGA and microcontrolers. But you will save yourself a lot of design time doing the microcontroler way. And well…hmmm…you dont need $50000 programmers for programming FPGAs lol. Last FPGA board I bought, had a built in programmer with usb <–> pc connection. I could program the entire fpeg in minutes and the entire thing cost me like $150USD ish. So it should not be that expensive unless you are buying top of the line programmers that program 5000 FPEGs per second or soemthing lol.


#13

Thats what I though.Thanks for confirming that for me.Based on the ps1 schematics, the controller gets 7v from the cd-rom drive and 3.3 from the system.Guessing the 3.3v is what is used for the controller.

I did make it sound like they all cost $50k huh?lol.I have no doubt it could be done with either asic or fpga.But 20$ microcontrollers would be easier for everyone to get a hold of.Like i was saying earlier I want anyone to be able to use this.


#14

Microcontroller is probably your only venue. I am yet to see FPGA used in a practical application rather than prototyping or whatever. And unless you have a lot of funding, it wont be possible for you to print those tiny chips you find inside controller pcbs. And well, you said it yourself. Controllers are running at different frequencies and different voltages. So you cant really do much with FPGAs without making things extra complicated.

You should stop worrying about the cost and focus on the system. If you are really worried about cost then printing your pcb (the board itself without any circuitry) should cost you a bulk unless you are printing like thousands at a time or open up a company in china.

And well, really good project. Good luck with it. You will never fail before you give up =)


#15

What you could do is that on the PlayStation input lines, have it accept 3.3v and have a voltage regulator regulate it to 5v.

Of course, the PS controller also works from 3.3v -> 5v, so…


#16

I’ve never seen the flash board, so I’m having a hard time visualizing how it functions. Getting the layout done isn’t a problem. I have friends who are electrical engineers that would be more than happy to work that out for me. In exchange for some of my services, that is. :wink: You have Reciver with an asterisk there, and an HC14 is mentioned, but not in your layout. :\ Is the fully schematic in another thread?


#17

Actually…we’re making this harder than it is, aren’t we (regarding the flash)?

If we can get just one PCB (preferably off of a flash that has died, I hate sacrificing a working one…), desolder the components using a heat gun, clean the plain pcb up really good, and scan it in at high resolution, and then use that either in a vector-tracing program or whatever to generate an etching template. Then wherever you take it, all they have to do is etch the traces. Of course, I don’t know how difficult the surface-mount solders are on the flash board, so who knows. Perhaps it could be modified to use hole-through so that we could get the boards etched, and then go in on a group buy of the component kits and just assemble them ourselves. shrug


#18

Lol. Thanks for the advice. I was thinking MC from the beginning.And i have no intention of giving up either.I’ll see this thing to the end!

I’ll try that thanks. I think I have about enough info on how to set this up. I really hate the theory part anyways.I’m gonna start putting everything togheter soon.Hope my controller ports dont give up on me…It wont be the first time though lol. Thanks for everything Taiki.Keep you guys posted on whatever comes up.


#19

concerning a custom flash PCB: you really don’t need to mimic the original flash schematics or even the PCB shape. You just need to make something that fits and doesn’t get in the way. The only thing that you really need the original PCB for is the exact placement of the optical encoders. The schematics for how to hook up the HC14 could also be taken from a p360.

That’s actually not a bad idea. Shit, it’s actually pretty damn simple. I’m willing to try and etch a PCB and cut it to shape to fit a JLF. anyone know where I can get HC14s for cheap?

edit: did a google and I can’t find any distributors, anyone else know of an apropriate opto encoder I can use?

And Ilavos: That’s awesome, pity that they use different clock cycles: I think you should just add a switch rather than try and integrate all the consoles and their respective clock cycles. I mean, honestly, no one is going to use more than one console at the same time (although it would be nice for finding discrepancies in ports). I’m not sure if I’m oversimplifying the problem here.


#20

bump