DB-15 pinout suggestions


#1

I’ve got a bunch of extra controllers, like Dual Shocks and DC, xbox and stuff. For my next stick I’m gonna use either a DB-15 or DB-25 connector to the project box with a couple different PCBs inside. But I haven’t done this before and was wondering if there is anything I should know, for example how do I handle some sticks having common ground, and other having grounds for buttons and grounds for the dpad, etc?

If there’s any schematics you guys have that would be dope.

edit: Also I want to drill the PCB for the wires on my next stick, what size bit do I use for that?


#2

I’d really suggest against drilling your PCB. Trust me, not worth it. Only reason you see holes in pcbs anyways is for bulky components with stiff wires. Threading a soft insulated wire through a hole doesn’t work too well so you might as well just solder directly.

Nothing you really need to know about db15. Just treat it as a wire extension. Just be sure you don’t use any PCBs that don’t have common grounds which should be very few.


#3

So that means I can’t use an SFAC pad because it has one ground for buttons and one ground for dpad?

Also could you send me some pics of your orange stick again?


#4

Actually if you set up the pin connector correctly you should be able to use controllers that have the d-pad and buttons on a different ground. For the connector coming from the arcade pad, set it up so that the grounds are separated. So you would need at least 13 pins: 4 directions, 6 buttons, start, 2 grounds. Then on the connector for the controller in the project box, if it uses a single ground, connect the two pins with a wire and then run a wire from one of the two pins to the ground on the controller’s PCB.

Although doing it this way you have to assume that all the controllers that use two grounds have them set up in a single format, such as with just directions on one and just buttons on the other. I dont know if this stays the same or not, but if it varies slightly then you may need to break the grounds up into 3 or more pins and just connect the pins accordingly when you make up the project box connectors.

As for drilling the PCB, just a regular drill bit would be fine, preferably the smallest one you could find that will still fit the wire you are using. Although I wouldnt recommend drilling it. If you drill it and then solder you have to make sure to test everything out with a multimeter to make sure that the wire is actually making a connection with the thin copper plate in the PCB.

I tried this on an extra piece of the PCB for the L buttons that I had left over from my controller. It seemed to make it easier, but then when I tested the connections, one of them wasnt connected right and if it was the real thing I would have to spend extra time messing around to remelt the solder and reposition the wire and so forth. So I would stick with soldering the wire right to the PCB rather than drilling it.


#5

Ok, thanks a lot for the advice guys. I had seen some guys claiming drilling was better because it supported the joint for the solder better, but I guess there’s no need.


#6

it does, but most PCBs have traces on the other side of the board you could accidentally connect the wire to as well, especially what are called ‘ground planes’ which is just a big ass area of copper all connected to ground. If one of those is on the back side, with your button line on the other, you drill and solder and it’ll act like your button is always pressed down.

Airthrow, read through the UPCB stuff. If you’re kopasetic with having a DB-15 on the back of your stick, it’s the way to go.

All PCB’s, even ones that don’t use a common ground, can be setup to work like they do. In some cases, its a matter of a couple of resistors, in other cases, a few IC chips.