DC Agetec Arcade Stick


#1

Im thinking of buying 1 how is it?


#2

I personally love it. Not a huge fan of the buttons, but you can mod those out easy enough.


#3

punkpc, can you please share the general dimensions of your Green Goblin? Im planing to make my next joystick case a clone of this Agetec stick


#4

Kabal: Sure NP… just L x W x H? or would you like some more detail measurements? I can also get you Hi res pixs if needed.

FauxStar: There are a couple of Agetec sticks on eBay right now if your looking for one. Happy hunting


#5

@punkpc All the measurements you can get, please. The last time I saw an Agetec in person was like 10 years ago, and here these are very rare. Thanks !!!


#6

Beautiful stick == very nice base, and excellent separation distance between the joystick and pushbuttons. There’s no way most people can say the joystick is too close to the buttons on this stick! It has roughly twice the separation distance between stick and buttons as either the Mad Catz TE or Hori RAP series. It’s a very comfortable six-button layout.

It’s become desirable for some people who want to make a multi-console stick or get something retro with class… AND it has decent interior space for mods. JLF or Seimitsu PCB joysticks fit in the case nicely after some modding with plenty of room left to spare for a replacement PCB. Note that you WILL have to drill at least 3 more 24mm holes (with Forstner) for Start, Select, and RJ-45 pass-thru jack installations… You can definitely find room for these accessories if you plan carefully!

IF you were going to keep it Dreamcast-native, it’s very easy to remove the original wiring from the pushbuttons – the native buttons use their own kind of quick disconnects --, add standard 0.110 disconnects and install arcade pushbuttons (Sanwas or Seimitsus fit in the holes fine… You just have to trim down the interior “tunnels” in the DC base).

OTHERWISE, it’s a bit more involved with a complete PCB swap (most people probably install an MC Cthulu PCB), a new joystick (usually JLF or LS-32), and possibly a VMU window and plexiglass replacement for the original metal faceplate cover.