Desperate for a solution, The Mystery of the Intermediate Double Inputs


#1

Here is run down:

-Wooden Box
-Originally Installed with Sanwa OBSN30 Snap ins with large G1 micro switches for 6 face buttons
-Originally Installed with crappy generic odd mm size buttons but they have Sanwa micro switches for start\select\home.
-Lever has always been same, Korean Myoungshin Fanta
-Original PCB PS360+

I am lazy and decide to have a guy at NEC do the wiring originally. Get the stick back, no apparent problems until I get home and start trying to break the stick in in training mode. Practicing TTT2 in training mode randomly I notice 1+2 ( Square + Triangle) was not activating. It just would give me 1 then 2. Chalked it up to just missed inputs but upon turning on input history and constantly pressing 1+2 it became obvious the stick was dropping about every 15 to 20th input. For a control I plugged in my old stick TTT2 Madcatz PS3 stick and it was 100 for 100.

So first thing I do is switch the 1 and 2 buttons to two regular OBSN30 Snap ins. No change. Changed the cord that connects the PCB to the console, nothing. Changed the wires to the two buttons, nothing. Changed the firmware of the PS360+ 3 times nothing. I come to the conclusion that the PCB must be bad.

Months pass. I go and grab a Hori FC4 to padhack into the stick. I do that myself. Brand new wiring, same buttons & stick though. To my shock the problem STILL exists with the stick. I go out and buy all brand new buttons Sanwa OBSN30 screw ins and nothing changed. To prove to myself I’m not crazy I plug in my TTT2 Madcatz Stick and straight up do 400 1+2 inputs in a row, no misses.

So what the fuck?

Anybody got any ideas or is this stick cursed?


[HRAP 4 Kai] new PCB less input lag?
#2

We need clear photos of your wiring.


#3

I had that happen to me too. PS360+, Brook UFB, Razed Atrox (XB1 BC port), and my Hori RAP V3SA. Played on PS3, 360 and through the sorta laggier XB1 BC version.

I originally assumed that it’s the game recognizing that I press 2 a bit sooner.


#4

I will get you one.

http://twitter.com/Zero_The_Shadow/status/743568454792380416/photo/1

Sorry but only way to get images uploaded is through twitter.


#5

You can post images on imgur. Then you can easily link them here after you get the ‘direct link’ with the img (in brackets) and [./img] tags, with the link inbetween. The forum can do that automatically for you also if you attach images/file’.

Anyway, issues like this are almost always due to shielding issues, interference, cross circuits, grounding problems, or crappy insulation. And sometimes finding the cause can be more annoying than self torture with Klingon Pain Sticks. But when you do find it, you wind up going “what? How could I miss something as simple as this?” But sometimes it’s not simple or obvious at all.

Good luck and hope you solve it soon. Just to show you what substandard parts can do to a system: years ago I had a crappy arcade cabinet for PC called a ‘slikstik’. The materials were nice and were all old (pre-2004) Happs parts (made by IL), but it was slapped together by people who clearly had no idea what they were doing. The wood was not routed at ALL, so the joysticks were far too low in height…they were just screwed directly into 3/4th" plywood. And even worse, pressing 1 button would often cause two buttons to activate together (e.g. press 1P, get 1P+2P occasionally, and rather often, with the 2nd input just coming quickly but not being held down).

Someone (can’t remember who; might have been the guy from arcadeinabox) said it was probably the wiring harness, and getting a new harness from slikstik did not solve anything, then I realized the wires were all tightly bunched together. I did some very painstaking and brutal work of separating each wire so every wire was then by itself, and boom: 100% fixed.

The shitty wiring that was used, combined with the crappy insulation, was causing arcing and interference, when the wires were all next to each other. I later ditched the entire shitty ass cabinet and arcadeinabox took the same parts I shipped them and built a properly designed, routed cabinet.

Yeah. That’s what can happen when something substandard gets used.

Double-check your wiring and the joystick harness and the grounds.


#6

Tried Imgur & sadly uploading pictures doesn’t work for some reason on my phone. Twitter image upload works though.

The only constants are the wooden box & the lever. I’m not sure about interference & what causes it. Can anyone give me a rundown on it? The PCB in both builds has been directly under the buttons. Is it possible given it’s location it is causing interference?


#7

It looks like you soldered unique grounds for each button instead of chaining them from 1 point? I’d try using the grounds from other buttons on the 2 buttons you’re having trouble with and seeing if they work after that (i.e. plug signal for problem button+ground from a working button to the 2 points on the button); if they work after that, maybe try chaining all the wires from one of the working grounds?

For FC4 you should be able to just solder a ground wire to a single point on the PCB and chain all the grounds to that, that’s how I have mine. I think the grounds for all my buttons and the ground for the lever are all soldered to one of the shoulder button ground solder spots on the PCB


#8

Switching the ground in from another button will just cause the button to not work.


#9

Update: This seems to not be a wiring issue at all. It seems Hori PCBs are maybe just trash in general. Was playing with a HRAP4 and this exact same issue appeared. We switched the buttons on it and it has the same bullshit.


#10

hrap v4 normal or kai ? and if kai the old or the new built ? switch ps4/ps3/pc or only ps4/ps3 ?

because i just bought hrap v4 kai new built…

the hrap vx sa (360) board had the lowest 360 input lag of all sticks…

€dit

the new hrap v4 kai with matte buttons and pc switch has a improved board (according to neogaf). lag issues fixed :slight_smile: