So I’m almost ready to order parts to make a stick, and I feel like I have a pretty good handle on all the steps in the process except for the deceptively simple one: installing the screw in Sanwas. I plan on using MDF because it seems like the easiest medium to work with right now, but it looks to be too thick to be able to screw the buttons on without any additional routing around the holes, so what’s the recommended method?
What thickness MDF are you using?
I really don’t know yet. If a certain thickness would make things easier, then assume that. Otherwise, I’d say 1 inch, but only because this guide does.
One inch is way to much. 1" = 25,4millimeters. Max thickness for an OBSN-30 would be 8mm, and that is really MAX.
Is it even possible to get a combo of MDF and acrylic that’ll be that thin? Or is that assuming there’s already a piece of acrylic there?
Sorry for the stupid questions, but I don’t want to spend $40 on parts just to be in over my head.
get a larger wood spade, like, 1 1/4" or something, and drill that in about halfway into your wood
then take your 30mm wood spade and make the through hole. The larger wood spade should give you the room you need to screw in the washer and thin out the wood enough.
Alternatively, go get a router or laminate trimmer.
I do not think you can get a MDF that is that thin, + acrylic = Too thick.
If you do not know how to rout out the wood I strongly suggest you to think this over once again.
You could always drill 30mm holes in the acrylic and put in snap-ins but I am guessing you do not have the 30mm holesaw, correct?
PS: Multi is correct also.
Would this method allow for acrylic and a graphic, or would it be just enough to accommodate the buttons?
The shop I plan to work in has a drill press and some hole saw bits, though I’m not sure if they have 30mm. Is the end result behind this something like Paik’s tutorial, but with acrylic instead of the metal plate he uses?
I guess I should change the question to “What’s the simplest installation option for 30mm Sanwas? (Screw or snap in)”
The method I described would let you make the wood as thin as you want relatively without having to buy any special toolsb if you don’t have a router or chisel set.
Installing 30mm screw ins or snap ins are… well a snap HAH! No no, that was bad of me.
OK, I think I mostly get how to do it now…but two more questions. How should I go about drilling through the acrylic? I think it was paik’s journal that said not to drill through at the same time, but I feel like I saw something suggesting that was the best way to do it.
And just for clarification: can snap-ins be snapped directly to the acrylic or do they require metal/wood?
I don`t use acrylic (plexi glass) but because it is so fragile I think the best way is to drill slowly, otherwise it will crack.
And yes, you can snap snap-in buttons directly to the acrylic.
I use plexiglass. I clamp it to a piece of scrap underneath and i start slowly and then i kick it into high gear. I don’t get what all this fragile talk is about, I’ve nearly TRIED to crack this stuff and i haven’t done it after 5 panels yet. I’ve even drilled a hole in a piece of scrap with the paper removed and not clamped tightly and it didn’t crack it.
Though to be safe, i suggest you do clamp it to a piece of wood and keep the protective paper on, even better is sandwiching it between two pieces of wood probably.
When drilling plexi I use a drill press on a low setting and go through it in multiple passes. The reason for this is that I find its better to cut the plexi rather and melt through it. On a low setting you creat less heat through friction and taking multiple passes allows it to cool down a little bit in between drilling.
Also I drill both the plexi and my top panel at the same time. However, after you have made it all the way through the plexi you want to stop the drill and remove the piece of plexi from the hole saw. If you dont then you will have trouble drilling through the wood protion of the top panel.
As for plexi being fragile, I havent experienced this myself yet. I cut the general shape on a table saw, use a drill press for drilling, widen the hole from 1-1/8" to 30mm with a sanding drum, and have even used a metal file to remove a rectangle in the center of a plexi sheet. I have never had any problem with it through out the 3 stick I have made. You just have to make sure that its supported enoungh so it doesnt have the chance to crack.
or do it the ghetto way like i did, put a little bit of silicone to hold them buttons to the wood. using snap ins obiously:wink:
I’m kinda in the same situation as Supazio. I planned to use OBSN(screw in) because I thought they were meant for thick boards but after reading what TheRealNeoGeo said, the OBSF(snap in) might be better suited for me. But what I don’t get is this. Don’t snap in buttons require thickness to be less than 5mm? ie) thickness of plexiglass+thickness of board being < 5mm. In my case, I’ll be using 2mm thick plexiglass and 30mm holes with depth of 8mm making total depth of 10mm. Would the snap-ins work in my situation?
Not unless make a bigger hole through your main panel and just have the buttons snap in to the plexi.
Thanks again for your help Chaotic Monk,
Do you think a larger hole, such as 31mm diameter be enough? I’m hesistant to make it too big because I’m afraid that the wood(plywood) in between the buttons will become too thin. Currently, the closest a button can get to another button is 6mm. Increasing the size of the hole by 1mm from 30mm to 31mm will reduce the distance to 5mm. Ofcourse I can offset this by spreading the buttons further apart, such as increasing the minimum distance between each button from 6mm to 7 or 8mm. But then I worry that the buttons will be too far apart and feel ackward.
The other option I’m considering is to get the area surrounding the buttons to be 3mm thick. As for the thickness of the acrylic sheet on top, 1/16". This way total thickness will be less than 5mm, allowing me to use sanwa snap in buttons. This time, I worry that the wood(plywood) around the buttons will be too thin to support the button presses of typical gameplay.
Are these worries of mines justified? Or are they all unreasonable and either method will work fine?
You’re looking at more like 33mm. You could also try just cutting notches in the holes which are slightly bigger then the button hinges. Hopefully that would give you the best of both worlds.
You might want to just cut a square out of your panel instead and just let the plexi support the buttons (just don’t dont make it too big or you’ll be giving the plexi an excuse to bend) but you might want to get slightly thicker plexi (1/8")
Kind of like this:
Its liable to splinter/snap in places so I wouldn’t advise it.
Yup they are. You can eliminate them by switching to screw ins though
Thanks again for your reply
I love your idea that you illustrated in the picture. But before I proceed I just want to ask if this causes any trouble with artwork. such as a piece of paper inbetween the top panel and the acrylic glass. Would the paper be able to stay firm even without the support of the panel behind it? Or is this concern of mind unreasonable because most paper used for these artwork are very strong and firm?
P.S. I know nothing about printing paper ><
Unfortunately, neither do I >_< Most people seem to be printing on card stock which leads me to believe that its rigid enough to work. But like I said…I’m not 100%