Did I just kill my 360 PCB?


howdy friends,

I finally got around to building the arcade stick of my dreams and managed to get it all built up. Then came the time to solder and boy was that disastrous! I was no stranger to soldering relatively large things from working on guitars so I knew the fiasco I was heading to and sallied forth nonetheless.
Anyway after a few hours of fighting, burning, using my 7 hands to hold everything in the right place, and a few shots of hot solder coming dangerously close to my eyes I thought I had everything good to go so I figured I’d plug it in and test it out.

its an Xbox 360 stick build using a first party wired MS 360 pad (the one that doesn’t have the daughterboard for the DPAD)

when I turned it on there was no issue, I could go up, left, right, but gasp not down so I figured I didn’t do the down button right, made a mental note of it and kept on to the testing. I booted into HD Remix and because of the always on down button my cursor was flipping out (running down to the last option) anyway got into the game and noticed for some buttons it would be like hitting more than one button (LK and HP, or whatever)

Then the controller shut off and wouldn’t turn back on. I tried unplugging it and plugging it back in to no avail. That was a few days ago and I haven’t tested again yet.

so first question: Did I just kill this PCB?

second question: If I did kill this PCB, what is the easiest 360 PCB to hack? I found the most difficult part of this PCB was wiring the dpad because those contacts are SMALL, like 10% the size of the contacts for the face buttons or less. . .

by the way, thanks for reading this wall of text.


I don’t know about your first party xbox pad but it sounds like you short circuited it.

If you cannot find a madcatz retro arcade (these are the easiest to hack) then the gamestop/madcatz wired is a popular choice. The problem with the new Madcatz/Gamestop pad is to wire the triggers in the newer versions require resistors and a transistor to wired up a certain way to get them to behave digital.


Got any close up pics of your connections? The newer wired pads have easy to solder spots on the back(I agree that the front d-pad contacts are way small and way fragile). The Mad Catz arcade stick(cheapo $10 ones(comes with frogger and time pilot too so thats cool)) is pretty easy. You don’t have to scrape the black stuff off the contacts but you have to watch for bridging(very easy to bridge the ground and signal for the face buttons). The only thing with thats controller is it’s a bitch to take the dame thing apart.


I’ll try to snap some shots of it up on the weekend. If I shorted something it’s possible that if I fix that short the board will turn on again?