Disregard/delete please!

e: solved! Nothing to see here <3

  1. There is no such thing as a “Hori V5”, the “5” comes from poorly named auctions and sellers. I’m presuming you have the Hori RAP V-Hayabusa Silent.

  2. The stick comes with Hori’s Kuro buttons; I haven’t had extensive use with them, but if I remember correctly, it’s been said that there’s much more travel on the plungers than on Sanwas (kind of like Seimitsus). Consequently, your triple-taps might register just fine on Sanwas, but might not on Kuros.

That’d be my best guess for now.

Sorry, changed the title to suit. I just call it that because of the old V4.

I’m definitely hitting the base of the button when I’m pressing. There’s an audible thud which I can hear, even with the silencers in place. The plunger is going all the way down every time.

I may try to plug a Sanwa button in just to see what happens.

e: nvm

iirc the hayabusa silent is optical, maybe one of the bulbs is dying? :frowning:

most people here are critical assholes when it comes to verbal descriptions, they’re gonna ask you to get a multimeter and test things yourself, i know its demanding, but a lot are annoyed when someone comes in for help in solving a problem that probably has a simple solution.

for diagnosis like this, nobody will probably help you unless you have a video demonstrating what is happening. another good thing is to provide pics, a lot of pics, of the pcb’s and wiring.

another thing that could help too is having another hori stick around and comparing the behavior with it if you have access to a HRAP4 Kai, i think that would make a good match to compare because its widely available and possibly have the same internal parts…

how did replacing the buttons to sanwa go? if you can also try to swap the lever with a JLF or something other than the hayabusa silent and see if you still get the same issue.

only posting because i’m curious about the optical lever problem as well and would like to know more about it.

hope your issues get solved.

That hard to say honestly, you are asking about something that difficult to prove. Even with your screen shot the issue is not that obvious. Video is going to have the similar issues.
Its why most of us don’t give a shit about warranty, its voided the day we get the item. Its like our motto here.

Like me.

I think its still just bad execution 99 times out of 100 until I get in there and test the circuitry myself. Even on this particular case.

warranty… lol.

e: nvm

e: nvm

Not saying you have a problem but that could be from how the game engine works, you entered a input too late in a frame of animation the game will drop the input (not the controller).
Even past evo champs admit they don’t get every movie and combo out correctly 100% of the time.

e: nvm

By the video it definitely looks like the optical pcb is having troubles registering inputs like down and forward. BUT let me ask you this. Do you ride the gate with your motions? If not then try the same motions while riding the gate.

Perhaps you are right, I just don’t have a easy solution to give you.
I could open your stick, poke around in there perhaps make some changes (but that will void your warranty).

I don’t know about the game finger, but the Spark CE can be adjusted for how sensitive you want your joystick.
I hope this isn’t a trend in the silent Hyabusa joystick it self, but I am thinking this might be the case.

e: nvm

Apologies as I hust saw the video without audio. Very strange problem you have there but most likely the pcb is faulty. In any case you have to void the warranty (which is useless anyway since hori’s after sales support is horrible and it will be costly to you sending it back and getting a replacement).