DIY: Happ Perfect 360 Joystick on XBOX 360


My good friend Alfred Chow was able to convert my old Xbox Street Fighter Controller into a XBox 360 version.

Unfortunately, during the conversion we noticed although there had been controllers made for the Xbox 360, none were of the “Perfect 360” variety which turned out to be just a tad harder to get working.

You’ll find the intstructions here:

It’s a perfect conversion with no lag at all - even when going from analog to the digital connections on the D-pad.

Happy gaming! :slight_smile:


This is fantastic news for me! I have stick with p360 and I want it to work on x360 as VF5 i comming out and SC4 will come in near future also. That is fantastic!

Please, can you write exact symbol od parts used? And exactly how to assemble the solution? I will try to do this, but I don’t know what to do exactly - it is little bit chaotic.


impressive work :smiley:


I just wanted to bump because I think this is a cool info even though I don’t use P360 (or any US parts). I think it would be useful for Flash or ASCII optical as well.



Kineda, last time I pointed something like this out, they got their panties in a twist, so I want you to know this isn’t a personal attack. You saw a problem and found a way to overcome it that works. Awesome. I just think it’s a bad way, and far inferior to other options. I’ve recommended the use of analog switch IC’s many times; and would happy to be shown a better way, but I don’t believe this is it.

Relays are electromechanical. The power turns on an electromagnet that causes a metal reed to touch its other contact; physical movement. Over time, performance degrades, both from metal fatigue from the rapid movement, and also the magnetization of the reed. Analog IC’s are solid state, and barring nuclear war, will last far longer. Sadly, this is the only point I dont have numbers to back up.

I can’t find a datasheet for that relay, but if we assume that the reed travels 1mm, and the reed moves as fast as possible (speed of sound), then time from the magnet turns on until it moves the 1mm to make contact with the other piece of metal is at best 2.9 microseconds. Analog switch IC delays max out at around 120ns, 4% of the time the relay takes with those numbers;average is 2-3%.

The setup you have has power going to the relay, and when a direction is pressed, it grounds it so power flows through the electromagnet. I can’t find a datasheet on that relay, so the only number I have to go on is the 250Ohm written on the relay itself. If that’s the resistance, then having a single direction pressed is causing (5v / 250 Ohm) = 20mA of sunk power, 40mA if you hit a diagonal. Supply current for an analog switch chip is 1uA (1/40000th of relays in a diagonal).

Radio Shack sells those relays for $3 each, for a total of $12 to wire your four directions. The MAX4611 chip can be sampled for free from, or ordered for around $1.50 each from numerous places. One chip does all four directions. If you dont want to go with the MAX4611 and would rather use more standard chips, a single 74HC04 inverter and a single 74hc4066n analog switch IC is needed, and cost 50 cents each from Digikey. Cost for an analog switch $1-$1.50, 1/8th to 1/12th the cost of relays.

A single 14pin IC is smaller than one single relay, much less four.

I’ve sold a number of little boards made to do exactly this. Get a hold of me if you’re looking to have one made, or check my posts in the padhacking thread for info on how to make your own.

If it works ‘good enough’ for you, fine. Enjoy. But especially with the heavy current draw of those relays, I have to recommend analog switch IC’s to anyone thinking of a project like this.


I have used one of Toodles mini boards and they work great. They are solid and clean. I was very impressed with how the P360 performed using this board.


i will put this in the essential :tup:


Thanks for the info on the Toodles board. We did this on a Sunday, and the only place open at 7pm was Radio Shack and the resistors were the only thing available for us to finish up the stick.

I will say that I’m not sure of the Toodles board would really make any difference at all. There’s literally ZERO lag with these resistors.

We just added a video to the post for anyone that’s interested:


Well I think the main benefit of the Toodles method is longevity and reliability over time.



404 not found


Here’s a version of the page through the wayback machine. I’ll probably be consulting this when I get to building my own custom stick. Maybe somebody could e-mail Mr. Chow and ask if they could host a mirror of this old page?


Im having a great deal of trouble with this right now. My buttons work fine, but no go on the p360 stick.

If anyone can tell me exactly what to buy and how to wire it to work on a xbox360 wired controller, that would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you!


I don’t understand this thread.

I used one of them shitty madcatz atari looking sticks for the PCB which has common ground and wired it normally using the bumpers (not triggers) for Fierce and Roundhouse. It has an obvious +5 volt on the PCB for powering the P360. This is in a triple PCB setup.

You can find the diagram to that PCB online. +5 should be the red wire on xbox360 PCBs in general. Considering they use the USB standard.

Question about replacing Happ stick/buttons

I can get power to the stick but it doesnt want to function right. Ive tried hooking it up regularly and all kinds of other configurations but I dont think it can work without additional parts. I have no idea how to wire relays or analog IC’s (I dont even know what these are or do).

Should I just ditch the official controller pcb and go pick up a mad catz? At least i saved the original controller parts and can put it back together.

The only time I got it to respond at all was when I would hold a direction, and on release to the neutral position - the direction would recognize. Not the best way to play games.


Has anyone else done this

Has anyone followed this tutorial and had success?

I just got the whole stick wired up last night and found this thread while looking for something to solve the P360 issues I was having.

I went out today and picked up the relays and will be trying to hook them in as described in the link later this week.

I’m just wondering if anyone else has attempted this and found an alternate means to the same end, or even used this method with success?



Just so that nobody is confused. I just built a stick using this method (with the relays) and it works perfectly.


albert_c’s post has me confused. Are the relays not needed on the madcatz pad for some reason?


having problems a week after finishing the build. The character moves to the right uncontrollably. If i use the stick it works perfectly until I engage it in the right direction, but then once i do that (the first time) the right direction stays engaged until i unplug the controller or tap the box relatively hard. But, once i plug the controller back in, or move the stick to the right again it goes right back to being stuck. I think one of the relays is bad.

If the MadCatz controllers dont require relays then I definitely recommend them over the microsoft option.


Does anyone have a working link to the instructions?


Toodles, I have a Happ 360 that i’m trying to set up for Xbox 360. For the most part I follow what you’re saying. I don’t think the relays are necessary, but I get a little lost. Can I set it up so that the only additional component I need between the Xbox controller PCB and the Happ 360 is a hex inverter? I would wire the 5v and ground from the PCB to both the inverter and the Happ 360. Then I would wire up, down, left, right from the D pad on the PCB through the the inverter to the the inputs on the joystick.

Is it as simple as that or am i missing something?