DIY sixaxis adapter FULL GUIDE

Here you go the full guide:

Ok, so if you want a sixaxis adapter like TOMORROW you can make your own! It should cost less than $15 CDN and best of all there’s no wait.

First you’ll need to disassemble your sisaxis. There is a great guide HERE detailing just that.

Now you need to order these parts from Digi-key. Note this is the Canadian digi-key so if your in the US go to the US site.

1x Part Number 609-1835-ND You can order more of these since they’re so cheap just in case you mess one up.

1x Part Number HF20U-02-ND

2x 7.5k ohm Resistors that can handle at least 1/8 watt. You can order them from digi-key, part number CMF7.50KQFTR-ND, for less than a dollar or scrounge up some of your own.

You’ll need the following tools:
15/30 watt soldering iron
Lead free Solder
Wire - I used old floppy IDE cable

That’s it four measly parts. Digi-key uses UPS to ship things and I received mine the next business day!

This is the FFC cable we need so we don’t mess up the sixaxis PCB by soldering directly on to it. Note the orientation of the FFC cable, it’s facing label side down.

Here is the FFC connector we’ll be soldering on. Note that the contact pins are on the BOTTOM of the connector.

Here is an overview and pin assignments for for what we have to do.


Step 1) Solder wire to each contact on the FFC connector. Make sure the soldering iron is nice and hot and be sure not to accidentally connect two pins together. Remember that soldering should only be done in a well ventilated area. You can separate the top and bottom rows with some aluminum foil so you don’t accidentally drop solder on the bottom row.

Step 2) Add the resistors to the connector using the pin assignment picture above. You can simply solder the resistor straight on to the connector, or use some additional wire and solder it farther away like in the picture above.

Step 3) Insert the FFC cable in to the sixaxis label side down

Step 4) Insert the FFC cable in to your shiny new FFC connector where the pins on the FFC connector are on the BOTTOM side.

Step 5) Test to make sure all your contacts are good by using a multimeter on either side of the FFC cable ie: on the sixaxis PCB and the wire you soldered on. If your confident that none of your wires and pins are not accidentally touching you can just put the battery back in to the sixaxis, and short the signal lines with the appropriate ground to test the buttons with the PS3. Now would be a good time to label your wires as well.

ex: with the battery connected to the sixaxis short the PS button with the PS ground to turn on the ps3

If all your wiring is good then your all done! If not, you need to whip out the multimeter and check for the loose connection.


Props to slagcoin for the pinout.

I’m interested, that’s pretty cool.

also interested in a guide =)

Yes, you definitely still need them. I originally planned on adding them on the actual buttons where there’s a lot of room to mess around, but on second thought there is more than enough clearance just to add them to the connector. I might try it later and post pics.

I’ll see if I can put together a full guide a little later :wink:

guide plz :slight_smile:

complete guide would be awsome, looking forward to it. thanks

Added a pic to help clarify the pin assignments.

i was discussing this with my dad yesterday and he suggested this very same idea and now you have posted it up and whats better… whats better is we have a Digi-key in the uk, so i dont have to spend the best part of a day trying to find the same items somewhere else! (just found out the shipping is 12) and the buzz has ended… guess i better start looking locally lol (CPC here i come!)

Saw your post in the other forum. It’s a nice cheap solution! Good thing I haven’t started my padhack yet, otherwise, I would have spent more money! Thanks!

ok it looks like that 1 site is the only place to buy these two items from… i honestly cant believe it but i cannot find anywhere else (one place is located in the uk but they can only import the parts and they charge 15 for the shipping…)

guess i will keep searching…

this is very cool :slight_smile:

First post had been edited to a full guide.

nice guide ren01, now i just have to either keep on searching for the parts in the uk or import them :stuck_out_tongue: 5* from me!

Got my parts from Digikey in the mail today, once I have some free time I will try this out. Many thanks ren01.

Well I’m glad this guide is helping some of you out!

The Parlex FFC cable is a made to order cable. You can get a similar cable from a different manufacturer as long as it’s a 20 pin 1mm pitch one sided FFC. There are a couple different manufacturer’s, but this is the cheapest one I found in North America. I’m not that familiar electronics websites for the UK.

The connector again is nothing special, but it does separate the 1mm pitch cable into two rows of 2mm separation which makes it easier to solder. You can buy any 1mm pitch 20 pin one sided FFC connector as long as you think you can solder on it. Good luck finding some parts, I’m sure you can find something locally.

would this do? would i be able to trim it down or leave it at full length without any issue of lag? (sorry for the especially noobish question but this is the biggest struggle i am having with my custom build)

U cant really trim FCC cables, their 2 ends have contact points.

If you cut them into half , you would have to go thru the trouble of probably sanding the insulating layer and stuff

Here in singapore, i managed to find some at 27cm length at like 3.50$ SGD, thats prolly like 2USD or so

I suspect it would work fine, but do not cut it. A bad wiring job with poor quality cabling and bad joints for the joystick and buttons would probably be much worst than an FFC that is a little long, and no, there should be no appreciable lag.

Help ground connection

hello, I have a problem in the connection of ground. I enclosed a picture for you to understand better what I mean, thank you.

THE JOYSTICK AND THE FIRST 6 BUTTONS DO NOT SHARE THE SAME GROUND! Please take a look at the pin out again! The Dpad, L1 and L2 share one ground and then the 4 face buttons and R1/R2 are on another. DO NOT connect these grounds as you will very likely kill the PCB.