Dual Mod?


I’m thinking about dual modding my 360 SFxT Pro for EVO (Why must they use PS3??) So I was thinking about buying a solderless Toodles Cthulhu Multi-Console PCB. http://www.focusattack.com/toodles-cthulhu-multi-console-pcb/

Exactly how hard or easy is this modification going to be? And is this Toodle’s most up to date multi-console PCB or has he come out with a new/easier/innovative one?

You guys can just throw links at me (preferably explain them on the dot) Thanks :]

Which to buy? HORI Fighting Edge or new MadCatz SFxT Pro CROSS?

Multi Console Cthulhu will not be solderless for dual modding a 360 stick. Lots of work will be involved and to be honest you do not need this product.

If you can solder then get a ChImp SMD.

If you can’t solder then get a Kitty TE with TE-S harness. You’ll still need to figure out how to mount the board to the case.

All his products can be found on GodLikeControls.com


For dual modding cthulhu isnt solderless. It might be easier to use a te kitty with te-s harness instead. You may need to cut away some of the case to get the te kitty in there. Waiting till last minute, less than a month before evo might not be enough time to get tha parts in and working.


Its plenty of time to get the parts in if you’re in the US, but getting them installed and working is out of my hands.
TE Kitty isn’t recommended because there’s no easy way or even a reliable way that’s been documented to install the boards to the case; ChimpSMD is the way to go for the time being, but would require soldering for best results.

Honestly, if you want to make sure the stick works awesome in time for Evo, hitup the modder’s threads in the Trading Outlet, tell them what you have and pay to ship the stick to them to get the mod done.
If you’re confident in your hacking abilities, then read the welcome sheet that comes with the ChimpSMD and use the guide Donovan Meyers made to help. It’s a different TE stick and the older model of Chimp, but the instructions still stand with little change.


Honestly, I’d just do the mod yourself, soldering to the TE isn’t that bad. The bottom of the terminal strip is really easy to solder to for the button inputs, and the joystick shouldn’t be too bad either.

Personally, I’d buy an IMP v2 + MCC over a Chimp, but it’s your stick and the Chimp would be the easier mod, especially for a beginner. Toodles’ documentation is excellent though and you should have no issues if you follow it with care.

If you don’t want to solder, I’d hit up a reputable modder in the trading outlet. It may seem to be expensive, but the end result will be much better than what you can achieve yourself if it is your first time modding a stick, especially if you are not confident in your work.


Well sheeeeettt. Im lost. A chimp or an IMp v2? I plan on soldering on my own; however I’m just worried about the tools I’ll need to get this job done. I own a solder sucker but do I need any wire cutters and what not? Is there a type of solder I need to purchase? Preferably what watt solder tool is preferred? And what would be the difficulty levell of this mod. I do plan on buying one of those practice kits.


if its just a dual mod, use the chimp


ChImp SMD.

You will need to know how to solder to a competent level and also have access to a range of other tools like wire strippers, cutters, screwdrivers, precision knife like a scalpel, pliers etc. You may already have a lot of these laying around your house somewhere.

Just get whatever standard solder you can find. Not plumbers grade. I personally go for the thinnest stuff as I find it easier to work with. You should be fine with any budget soldering iron for now.


Just out of curiousity. Are the only Dual Mod PCB options from Toodles? And are solderless dual-mod PCB’s non-existent or they just suck?


Other people sell custom PCB’s, just a quick search on SRK will show you that.

Kitty boards are solderless when installed in the correct arcade stick. Same with TEasy Strike boards, but these may be out of stock.


Are Kitty Boards very good? No issues with them at all?


They are sexual.


DonkeyBlonkey, you’d be taking a serious risk trying to use a Kitty in a Pro stick. The electronics and stuff all connect together peachy, but mounting everything into the stick difficult and hackish. I’ve tried it personally and that same stick is sitting in an unusable state on a shelf because it was just too frustrating. Any other madcatz stick and I’d definitely be encouraging you to go with the Kitty, but for a Pro, I really have to recommend the ChimpSMD and hiring a pro to do the install for you.

(as for the MC Cthulhu + Imp option from earlier, he was recommending it because it means he can use the stick on a whole crap ton of old systems. ChimpSMD is cheaper and easier to install, but only adds PS3/PC support. Compared to those two options, Kitty is far easier to install in non-Pro sticks, adds all of the older consoles the MC Cthulhu supports, more expensive than the MC +Imp option, and includes LS/DP/RS, Turbo, and LED cheesy goodness. )


What exactly do you mean by “peachy”. And is there not enough space to mount the extra wires and kitty onto the inside of the stick :(?


Sure, let’s go with that. The TE Kitty is made to sit underneath the original TE board. There’s no way to do that with the changes they made to the Pro case. So, you have to connect everything together with the Kitty board upside down over top the main TE board, and there’s no room for it there between the main TE board and the white plastic chassis. Some folks whipped out a dremel and carved up the white chassis in a way to allow the ribbons through so the board could be mounted on the other side of what was left of the chassis, but that’s way hackier than the install would be in any other TE stick.

There is simply no way I could recommend it, and no way I could support it for those who tried. It’s a bad idea for all but the most experienced modders. Please, if soldering if your hang up, either get a different TE stick, or contact a modder to do it for you.


Though I was able to accomplish this, I’d have to admit that it was a pain in the ass to complete. Like what Toodles said, I had to connect the Kitty board upside down, and had to use a dremmel to accommodate enough space for all the wires. It was pretty tedious work only having a small amount of work space. Once I finished that project, I decided to never open that stick ever again except to add my optical sensor. I’m just glad that everything in it is fully functional and there isn’t anything rattling inside it.

edit: here is a pic in case you were curious.


It’s a shame that pic doesn’t actually how much dremelling is needed or was done.
How did you keep the board mounted on the white chassis? It looks free hanging unless Im missing something.


Yes lots of dremelling. It’s pretty much the length of the board… And yes, the board is actually not mounted. It just so happens that with so little space for the wires, there isn’t enough wiggle room for kitty stray away. I even had zip ties ready to go, but I felt that it was not really necessary in this case. I think this is just an example of using a product the way it’s not intended to be used, but still turned out okay. =)


Well I ordered both the TE Kitty and chImp SMD. Guess I’ll use the TE Kitty on my TE Stick and the SMD for the Pro Stick (Having Kuya_Joe mod it for meh)


Thank you for taking the advice; I have no doubt you’ll be happy with the results.