Dual modding 101

A friend bought a datel pro (ps3, 360 and pc compatible) and it’s no more recognized by his ps3. I think it’s because of the firmware updates for the ps3, because it works well on x360.

So I wanted to use official pcbs to avoid this problem.

But maybe there is no problems with the pcbs you’re talking about ?

Superfab - that seems strange - Sony don’t have any licencing model for thier controllers, so it shouldn’t stop recognizing it due to firmware updates - also I’ve not seen any other people mentioning that, and there are a lot of people with the same chipset as that?
It’s true that future updates might disable the XBox side of things, but so far there’s been no MS response. Does anyone know how long the Datel chip has been in existance for now (Toodles, looking at you here!)?

You could go down this route by using the PCBs out of licensed fight-sticks, like the Mad catz SE - both the PS3 and the 360 pcbs from these are common ground. Not cheap, but about the only guarenteed way to go!

Yeah, it seems you’re right Eben01 :confused:

I think I’ll try to use an X360 Madcatz FightPad (I’m getting one from a friend) and a Toodels CHImpSMD.

It seems this pcb still working on ps3. It’s just out of stock everywhere I looked :confused:

Sounds a tried and tested combination! :slight_smile:

Sure it’ll all be fine.

Damn it, I need a guide for dummies and step by step on how to wire up Cthulu/Imp/fightpad together. lol.

Also if I’m using the imp, will I still need to have both usb cables?

This guide should help:

It uses an MC Cthulhu, but then all you have to do is connect a USB cable to the Imp instead of going to an RJ-45 jack.

Updated all the old links, finally. I’m a lazy bum.

Page for noobs? Boom-Shaka-Laka

Awesome thread. I’d nominate it, but I don’t know if the new forum system supports it and if it does, I can’t find the link.

LA!

Good shit Nerrage.

So, I dual modded my stick (TE R2 360 to PS3) but my RT button is stuck.

If I make RT hk and i push LT for 3xKick, it will show i hit lk and mk but not hk.

The button itself is fine, its something else that is telling my stick to always hit RT.

I am using the chlp board that was posted on the ch 3 section.

Any help would be appreciated.

Check for a short circuit between Ground and the Signal wires. chances are, you’ve accidently got a ground wire touching it, making the system always think it’s held down. To confirm it, just plug your stick into a PC and go into the control panel > printers and other hardware > game controllers > properties, and see if one of your buttons is being forcibly held down. If so, then that’s your problem, keep owrking the wires around until you find the short, fix it, and get it to work properly.

thanks man, it worked:).

So, if someone needs to use a random USB controller PCB for PS3?

will it work, considering that the controller doesn’t have analog sticks at all!

I have a question, will this mod also mean the stick can also work with a PC? I’m thinking about modding a Mad Catz Wii SE stick.

You can use an Xbox 360 controller with Windows. Some PS3 controllers don’t work so well, like MadCatz Non-chun-li TE or SIXAXIS. Some, like HORI sticks and Chun Li PS3 TEs work well.

Same as before. You can mod with something such as a ChImp SMD, which works with all PC, or you can mod with 360, which will work with Windows PC.

maybe i missed it some where on this post, but i was at radio shack today and didn’t know what kind of DPDT i needed (AV, VOLT, ECT.) for a dual mod of a gutted 360 controller and cthulu board?

No one’s put up specs because ANY one you find will do. If it can handle 3.3v and (what, 1.5k pull ups, so…2.2mA?) 3 mA, your good. You’d be hard pressed to find a DPDT that wouldn’t work, seriously. Look for a DPDT that you believe will be the easiest to install in your stick case; THAT should be your biggest concern.

cool thanks, i just wanted to make sure. that makes things SOOO much easier :slight_smile:

hey again, has anyone posted a mapping of a digital pad on a Xbox 360 controller yet? i can’t seem to find the right places to solder >_<

multimeter is your friend.