Dual modding 101

Nerrage: Great thread. I learned most of my techniques by searching all over the Tech Talk early last year, having to put several pieces of the puzzle together. This should be a great help for newbies and existing modders alike.

I might want to add a PCB to the PCB list: Joytron Paewang Revolution -PCB Only-

This PCB is very similar the PS360, but has been around for longer, requires more soldering, and can even come built in a Joytron/Mayflash case.

great write up there im sure it will help a lot of people looking to make the jump but dont want to get their hands too dirty. and an excellent point about making an investment in the tools to use if you are doing it on your own. shit im still buying all the tools i need, but i feel the investment is worthwhile since i have a lot of big ideas lined up for the future, plus also if you able to actually understand the concepts and techniques shown here, then these skills can be applied in many other areas, like fixing old VCRs or lamping them or even computer mods.

I didn’t include this because it wasn’t exactly “custom,” meaning, it wasn’t specifically made for anything but modding. But, it does bring up a good point, possibly, an “other useful PCBs” section, such as FightPads, The Paewang, possibly the mayflash, PSX digital for sure (and its differences between it and the DualShock 1). Just need a bit of time to get this section thought out and organized.

Very nicely written and very comprehensive. Nice job.

Wonderful article. I’d like to make one suggestion: A multimeter should NOT be optional. In fact, I think it’s one of the most important tools in a modder’s toolkit. I test every single solder joint for continuity after it’s done. It’s saved my ass many times in the past. It’s also critical for working with unfamiliar pcbs, as it’s the easiest way to check whether it’s common ground.

I understand. I guess I mostly listed it as optional because as crucial as it is, I tend to not break it out as frequently as to say for every joint I do. I’ll update it to a strong recommendation. I didn’t want the “required” list to be too intimidating, especially to noobies not wanting to get into the nitty gritty. I am definitely guilty for going without one for some projects, but I definitely agree that it is a crucial asset, and should be in any (serious) modder’s toolbox.

I’m sure if you had your mod powers, you’d go ahead and edit it out for me. Haha.

Nerrage, this thread actually made me decide to stop being a pansy try soldering today. Your instructions were extremely helpful. In other words, GOOD ASS JOB!!! /highfive

With all due respect, there are many people (like myself) that live far away from anyone who can create a custom stick. Not to talk about dual moding it. Sometimes you have to do things by yourself and that is what this thread is for.

@Nerrage
This is a great thread. Detailed enough.
Well done mate. Thank you!

Good stuff. Hope you’re learning! :smiley:

Ironically, d3v lives pretty far out in the Philippines, yet he still works with a USA modder pretty regularly :lol:. Regardless, I’m glad to be of help. It must be hard just to get a stick out in Serbia >_>. I hope your mods be blesséd!

NERRAGE is THE BEST!

Wow, this is really awesome - you have taken away some of the anxiety I have about attempting my first solder. Much appreciated!

Nerrage you should add a small insert on how to clean the soldering tip/replacing. File/Steel Wool. Because you need to re-apply solder to the tip before youre done right?

Yes, that’s correct. Tinning it when not in use helps protect the tip, including when you unplug it. I’ll mention that. Thanks. I’ll hopefully get to more writing up hopefully this weekend when the homework pile thins.

Seriously awesome thread. Someone else pointed to this from another thread, and I just went ‘ahhh - I wish I’d read this before I tried to figure it out on my own!’.

This so should be a sticky.

question about the switch, assuming both pcbs are common ground why do all tutorials suggest we wire up the d+ d- (green and white) to the switch? My common sense would be to cut the power (just the red) to the switch and have that pick the PCB that is on.

That way you could wire up a dif colored light to each wire as well to indicate which system its on.

Is there something about that setup that would fry the pcbs/usb ports?

Not fry, but they wont work properly in almost all cases. If both boards aren’t properly powered, they will try to draw power from the signal lines, making the one that is ‘on’ think all of the buttons are pressed.

ah didn’t know that. Thanks for the info :slight_smile: so the D+/D- actually draw power as well, so the red isn’t really a true power line.

No, Toodles is saying that both PCB MUST be powered at same time.
You are thinking to only power one PCB at a time; no work.

Hi guys,

To start this post, I would like to thanks all the modders who are putting so much informations on this forum. It’s hudge.

I want to make a dual modded stick (360 ans PS3) from scratch but I’m a noob in modding (just changed buttons, art and stick of my datel pro :p) so I started to read a lot on this forum and on Slagcoin (so much informations on this website !).

My first idea was to use a 360 pcb and a ps3 pcb (direct from the official pads) to avoid any problem due to an eventual firmware update. (I heard of some problems on ps3 recently for non sony materials)
But it seems the ps3 pads are not common ground, so I can’t use it in my stick.

I read on this thread that the MCCthulhu is common ground. But I don’t understand what it is exactly. Is it a controller PCB or a switch PCB ? Is it well recognized on an updated ps3 ?

And in fact, the real question of this post : what ps3 PCB should I get to make my dual stick ?

Thx

Hi Superfab - there’s no definitive right answer to what you’re asking here - but to answer your question with a question: have you looked at getting one PCB that works for both systems instead?

There’s a Mayflash board that works on PC, 360 and PS3, and there’s a PS360 that does the same. Probably worth having one of those rather than having to do two PCBs and a switch (or IMP).