multimeter is your friend.
i had a gut feeling someone was going to reply that haha.
i’m still a noob. i don’t have one nor do i know how to use one to find the ground on a board because i still need to find the point where i would solder the power (USB) too >_< lol
well the multimeter would tell u what point that is to solder signal n ground. check youtube dual mod videos. theres also a ton of threads on here as well about the xbox controller. u can pick up a multimeter real cheap its worth it cuz its the only way to be 100 percent sure.
search madcatz fightstick dual mod tutorial on you tube theres like 10 parts and it explains it all.
thank you very much
Excellent guide Nerrage! This guide helped me a lot and I’ve been modding PCBs for people around me for a few years now. Seriously, read through the guide folks! No matter how much you think you know, reviewing and reminding yourself about what you know is never a bad thing. Especially when all the information you ever wanted is presented to you right here! :lol:
Now here’s a question I have that I’m not sure if anyone’s tried. A buddy of mine owns an old HORI Real Arcade Pro 1 which he’s been using on his PS2 and on the PS3/Xbox 360 via converter for years now. After a recent session, he wondered if there was any way that I could add L3 and R3 buttons to his stick. He really wants to have those extra buttons around in order to use Training Mode more efficiently. Normally I would just replace the original PCB with a DualShock 1 or something and be done with it, but he also wanted to keep the turbo switches on his HRAP intact because he also plays other games with this stick.
I’ve been mulling over how I could do this if at all and I thought, “Would it work if I matched up all the signal wires and grounds of both PCBs and consolidated them into one cord?” By this I mean that I would match up 1:1 all the signal points, the ground, the voltage lines, the data lines, etc. and for the signal lines, I’d have both go through the same cord into the player port. Essentially, the PS2 would then get the inputs from both controllers at the same time. But, no matter how much I think about this, the more I feel that this would not work and it’d be a really bad idea, especially if I wanted this stick to still work with converters after I was done with it.
So in short, can it be done? Anyone ever try this before?
None of the shops for Cimps work for me
Do you mean Chimps? Or Imps? You can order them easily at the website in my sig as long as you have a paypal account. And if you dont have a paypal account, send me a PM and we can prolly work something out.
oh thanks but I saw this deal for a $12:00 adapter so I can use my 360 TEfightstick on ps3
those adapters are garbage dropped inputs and laggy and at $12 is prolly a knock-off of the already bad original adapter
so Nerrage, when dual modding, if the pcb already has solder on the exposed end like the bottom of a madcatz pcb or more specifically a vx sa pcb, should I just warm up the solder that’s already there and try to put a wire in with the existing solder or use more solder? I’m afraid of creating short circuits between signals.
and a second thought, I don’t think anyone has thought of this, but these sticks now seem to be easily moddable if I were to desolder the jst housing and run the original wire through the gap with another one from the other end towards the chimp, would that be easier than just soldering on top of the exposed end like the question above?
It’s best to tin the area and wire. If you were to just take a clean wire, heat up the joint, and place it there, there won’t be enough solder. It will be difficult to even get enough surface area for it to melt. Heat the pin, and add a small bit of solder and do the same to the wire. Then use the technique you described, and it will work fine. You probably will short in a few spots, but just desolder it and try again. They’re not a big deal.
Your “second thought” would be fine, too, but it’s a lot more work(i think…have yet to mod a hori).
Wondering if someone could answer a few quick questions for me…
A little background, I’ve got a HRAP V3 SA PS3 stick, an Imp V2, and an Xbox 360 brawlpad (Madcatz common ground). I’ve done plenty of 360 TE + ChImp mods, but not yet starting from a PS3 stick.
I understand how the Imp works, and how the button signals between PCBs should be connected, but should I also connect a ground and vcc between the PCBs or does the Imp handle that connection? For instance, with a 360/PS2 dual mod both controllers are technically getting power, their power and grounds are connected together (as per the image in the first post) but they output to two separate cables. Since this is a single-output connection, I just want to make sure that I don’t fry anything or create power issues.
The brawl pad also supports DP/LS/RS and turbo, is there any way I can connect these points like the button signals so the switches work whether I’m using PS3 or 360? It’s not entirely necessary as I probably won’t ever use these options, but just for the sake of completion/perfection.
With the button signals connected between PCBs, should I assume a ground wire would be shared between them as well? As with the Guide/Home button to the Imp, Home connected to Guide -> Imp is the correct way to do it?
I think that’s all I really need clarified, I’d like to get started on this mod tomorrow. If anyone could lend some expertise, it would be greatly appreciated.
Rules of a Dual Mod, as you already know:
All PCB must be Common Ground.
All PCB must be powered.
Signal to Signal.
GND to GND.
VCC to VCC.
The rules are the same for Multiple PCB Mods.
Think of the Imp as a third PCB.
Yes, you can hook up Turbo and LS/DP/RS.
Alright, thanks for the heads-up jdm. I figured that was the correct way, I’m just being particularly cautious since the V3 is a brand new stick. Off to the lab…
hey jdm714, do you know where the led soldering points are for the madcatz brawl pad? so I can hook up my v3 to use the leds on the stock panel?
Yes, I do know.
Wait some hours for me to show to you.
I have to go.
Let see if you understand this.
The LED are Common Anode.
Anode connects to VCC.
The four Resistors you see are for the LED.
Resistors here are connected to the Cathode.
R27 for D3.
R28 for D4.
R29 for D5.
R30 for D6.
so i would solder r27 to led 1 on the v3 for 1st player, r28 for 2nd, etc. etc?
So, I bought the stuff to dual mod my TE, and I’ve got no issues with soldering. Just have one minor question. Do I tie together the button + joystick grounds from the TE and Fightpad, and then I can solder my fightpad signal contacts to the PS3 TE PCB, right? Then do I just take the USB wires to the imp and follow the pdf?