Feedback on Hori Hayabusa dead zone?


Hello all,

So i have been practicing Potemkin’s 6k loop (GG xrd rev) probably the most hardest and technical combo in the game even harder then some of Ino’s combos. But after long time practicing with my Sanwa JLF-TPRG-8AYT-SK Silent + Kowal 1mm actuator i can do it love the stick btw feels fast, smooth and silent. However i tried different sticks:

Regular Sanwa JLF + kowal = not very good diagonals have issues compared to the Sanwa silent and overall not as snappy as the silent version oddly enough
Seimitsu LS-40-01 this one is GREAT i could do the 6k loop relatively easy even if i had no adjustment time to the stick overall superb stick
Seimitsu LS-32-01 after some adjusting i could manage 6k loop maybe getting used to it more will solve it…

However the Hori Hayabusa which i modded by sanding down the 1mm Kowal actuator at its edges did shorten the trow but damn i have some major difficulty doing the 6k loop (6k loop needs extreme reaction and speed 2 or 3 frames leniency it involves charging which must be done very fast before the prior move comes out)

So is this due to the sticks “dead zone” or “Throw” or “Engage”? No matter how fast i input the stick simply does not cooperate once i switch to LS-40-01 and Sanwa JLF silent i could do my 6k loop. Its a shame i do like the feel of the hayabusa since every other combo comes out smooth. Your thoughts on dead zone, throw, engage on the Hayabusa and why i am having issues? Maybe the Hayabusa is great for none extreme timing combos but for the 6k loop its very dissapointing.

Thx in advance


Sounds like Seimitsu parts suit your needs better, just stick with those. The 56 is still my favorite.


Thx for the reply

Yes the LS-40-01 and Sanwa silent + 1mm kowal are my favourite due to their fast reaction.

However i would like to know why the Hayabusa has issues (its not broken) its just i have a HARD time doing the 6k loop is it the “deadzone” “engage” compared to say LS-40 and my modded JLF silent + 1mm Kowal?

And what can i do to remedy the Hayabusa if its due to engage or dead zone are there mods for this? Already used the 1mm kowal actuator for shorter throw.

Lastly the LS-58 is the same as the LS-56 difference is the less stiffer spring on the 58 correct? Does the 56/58 have a smaller throw, engage, deadzone then the LS-40-01? If so that would be great!


The Hayabusa just has a long engage and throw by design. You could put levered switches in it, but that would be a bit more than a drop in mod.

You are right about the 56/58 only being separated by spring tension. I find it to be a bit tighter than the 40 on engage/throw, but it does have a big wobble zone, a bit more than the 32 and 40. There’s also a short throw mod for the 56 family that you could try.


Thanks for the reply,

Ive been searching and it does verify that some users do comment that the Hayabusa has a rather bigger dead zone and throw then say seimitsu sticks maybe this is why i have issues doing the 6k loop.
Alright gonna order the LS-58-01 and maybe toss in the throw mod as well. Seems like a good stick for my needs.


Engage is the same as JLF. If you cut the sides off the joystick, you can drop in a JLF PCB and the actuator is the same design on both sticks. Even a JLF gate will fit on top, the little nubs snugging the switches in. The throw is a tad larger, .5 mm each direction from what I recall in comparison to a JLF. All the dimensions besides the hole size of the gate are identical.


Deadzone is the same as JLF. The difference comes from the very slightly different throw. From my own personal experience it seems the newer Hayabusa has lighter springs than the earlier ones, but then that could just be cognitive dissonance from playing on 2 and 3 lb spring setups.

LS-58 is ok though the pivot leaves a bit to be desired. If you want a better feeling stick then do a throw mod on the LS-40. I posted it somewhere but I don’t remember all the details. You can get a nylon spacer from home depot, I forgot the ratio but it gives you 1 less mm of throw which makes it near no throw. Center needs to be widened which you can do with some sand paper wrapped around a pen to get it to fit over the end of the LS-40 actuator.


The engage distance is most definitely not the same as a jlf. Measurements and even a simple visual observation prove otherwise.


Oh really, then why are the parts interchangable?


The JLF and Hayabusa do have interchangeable parts, mostly the shaft, actuator, and mount plate.
The Body, gate and I think pivot is completely different.

That said Camacho is right, the Hayabusa has a slightly longer throw than the Sanwa JLF.
Camacho is wrong about the differences being obvious.


The larger throw is definitely noticeable. I haven’t noticed a difference in engage distance though.


The parts can be interchangeable while one has a longer throw. The difference is in the spacing of the microswitches, they’re further apart on the Hayabusa. I noticed this when using a short throw octagon jlf insert (in a hayabusa modded jlf plate) and kowal actuator in the Hayabusa- that exact insert and actuator combination worked fine in a jlf, but wouldn’t hit the diagonals on the Hayabusa. This prompted further investigation, at which point I noticed that the space between the OD of the actuator and the tabs on the microswitches was larger on the Hayabusa, even when using the exact same actuator. I then used calipers to measure the spacing and found a substantial difference between switches at cardinal directions. Can’t remember the exact number off the top of my head, but I know I provided all the numbers the last time you wanted to argue about this.


The spacing is identical on the switches, again you can drop in a JLF PCB if you do enough cutting to the sides of the Hayabusa. The nubs on the gates also drop in perfect to the switches when mounted on the bodies of both sticks which would be impossible if the measurements were substantially different. If they were even half a millimeter off it would not be drop in replacements!

You’re simply wrong and spreading misinformation.

@Darksakul we aren’t discussing throw, this is about engage.


I have no reason to make any of this up, engage differences between the Hayabusa and jlf change nothing in my life. I found a difference when using that insert/actuator combination and looked further into it, it’s as simple as that.

Have you by chance tried to make a circle gate that works with the stock hayabusa actuator? Because I found the engage distance to pose a problem there as well. We all know that a circle can work with the jlf, why would it work there but not with a hayabusa? Even with the stock yellow gt-y octagonal insert, hitting the diagonals leaves less room into the throw when you use it on a hayabusa. What do you think would cause that?





Micrometer measuring contest


You know what, I am going to stay out of this.
I said my peace, now I am washing my hands of this debate.


Ok guys,

Did not realize there where more posts i learned a important lesson NOT to fiddle around with different sticks after i practiced the 6k loop with Potemkin took me 2.5 months! Well…i had these other sticks i kept trying and trying since all these sticks have different properties (Throw, engage, dead zone) until…i no longer can do my 6k loop pretty depressing after i invested so much of my time just to realize i really messed up! Not a single 6k loop combo came consistently out on any of the sticks except 1…which is Sanwa jlf-tprg-8ayt-sk (version 2) + Kowal 1mm actuator. 2 days not using this stick after i was so tired of no success i went back to the silent Sanwa and after some effort i managed to get that feeling back again doing the strict timing of 6k loop but to get it consistently will take a couple of days of practicing what a price to pay!

Why is that? Does the Sanwa silent v2 has bigger throw, engage, dead zone compared to say LS-32-01 and LS-40-01 not even contemplating the Hayabusa…utter dissapointment.
I used the same exact timing on all my other sticks with terrible results close contender was the LS-40-01 it did manage but the stiffer spring caused issues…

Playing with the Sanwa silent v2 is imo so fast in reacting to what i command it to do and if any one of you guys know about 6k loop YOU KNOW how hard it is to pull off.
Is it the Omron switches type: “Omron d2rv-g-sd2” its a blast!
Also playing on the Sanwa silent v2 is butter smooth hardly any effort in QCF moves at all just a gentle flick of my hand is all that is needed.

Anyone know where i can buy these switches?? Tried searching but no luck…i rather order 4 of these as a back up then buy a whole new stick.
Maybe i should make a new thread regarding the d2rv-g-sd2.

And yes i tried the Octagonal gate from Kowal on the Hayabusa result MINOR improvement regarding timing, but not enough to sense “this is going somewhere”.


Any lever using D2RVG switches are going to have more engage and deadzone. The reason is they engage further in, so that’s why Paradise includes over sized actuators for them. Even a stock Sanwa silent has a larger actuator, the white one if I recall. The larger actuator is to balance out the deeper engage of the switches. If you simply bought the switches and put them into a stock stick, you’re going to have a lot of problems. It’s actually not a faster switch.

Paradise sells the switches in a JLF silent kit. Beware, if you try to put them into a lever that doesn’t have an over sized actuator mod, you’ll have a much harder time doing inputs.