Fightstick Seems to be squeaking; noticing dropped combos


#1

I recently ordered a Qanba Q4RAF about a month ago. After about 1 week the stick would squeak when I pressed right. A few days ago it started to squeak when hitting down, and today also when hitting up. I have been in training mode for UMVC3 for a good deal of time today and cannot pull off X-23’s light talon dive after : M,M,H in the air when I am facing right. Instead; either nothing comes out or her DP comes out. However when I am facing left ; I pull off the full combo flawlessly. This correlates to the squeaking by the fact that left is the only direction that does not squeak. Could this squeaking be the cause of the problem? I have never heard of squeaking being a sign of actually effecting inputs. This is my first stick so I am not very knowledgeable about stick modding, however I opened it up and i think the squeak is coming from the small red buttons around the joystick (I believe they are microswitches?) although I am not entirely sure.


#2

Sounds like the microswitches are wearing out, they are, in fact, the black boxes with little red buttons on them around the joystick. They’re dirt cheap to replace, and should just click in. Should fix both issues :).


#3

The JLF has a circuit board attached to the switches.

Just buy this.

Just unplug the board from the stick (the 5 pin cable) undo the clear gate and remove the old TP-MA (the thing you bought) and drop the new one in.

This should resolve the issues if it is a Microswitch issue like you are describing.


#4

Is the PCB easy to replace? Do I need to solder anything or is it just a simple unscrew and re-screw in?


#5

It just snaps into place


#6

I dont understand how they could “wear out” if this stick is a month old.


#7

Do I need to use any lubrication?


#8

Nope

Unsnap the gate, and the Sanwa TP-MA PCB Assembly lifts right out.
The new PCB assembly drops right in and the gate snaps right into place. No need for lubrication for the switches.

The parts that would use lubrication are the Pivot , the Spring Base, where the pivot and the Spring base meets the main body and maybe the metal washer. And you need very little lubricant about a pea sized amount.
The lubricant you want to use is either Shin-Etsu G-40M or Dow Corning Molycote 44 You need a total of a pea sized amount for the WHOLE stick, and that one 100 to 160 gram tube will last you almost forever.


#9

I had this problem when I made my stick. According to the store I bought it from it is somewhat common. The whole thing is pretty easy to take apart. What I did is I removed the pcb assembly. On the PCB assembly there are 4 boxes (the microswitches) and each of them have a small slot you can stick a small flat head to pop off the top and expose the micro switch. I removed the top and put a little bit of paintball grease (dow 33) on the sides of the red knob. I am not sure if the grease fixed it or if the knob just needed to sit better in the housing, but I have had the stick for about a year now and it has not squeaked at all. The only thing you really have to worry about is making sure to put the PCB back in the same position along with the connector. Otherwise your stick will not read (flip the connector position) or you directions will be wrong (move the pcb back to the correct position).

Personally I would just try popping the cover on and off, and trying to reseat the red knob a bit. Its most likely just making too much contact with the sides of the housing.


#10

Well i can hear a springing noise now; could the spring be affecting the inputs? Backwards wave dashing no longer works as it for some reason gives a forward input and makes me dash forwards.


#11

Did you take it apart? It sounds like you have the PCB in the wrong position if your character is going backwards when you push forward. Or are all the positions correct except when wave dashing? What have you done so far to the stick?


#12

All I have done is have a look inside. I can move in all directions fine, however when backwards wave dashing it seems to cancel the backwards dash and instead dashes forward. This is the same for QCF turning into DP motion when facing right. A forward input in being put in for some reason.


#13

does anyone suspect that some qanbas are leaving the production line with knock off parts??
ive been hearing about defective parts on qanbas much more than other companys

im not saying qanba are doing this deliberately, but maybe the manufaturer they have contracted for production is cutting corners by using knock off parts so they can maximise profits


#14

First I heard of this and I am bias against Qanba. Are we talking those who supposed to ship with Sanwas, Qanba’s new line of in house parts or what?


#15

i would say some are shipping sanwa replicas


#16

Do you have any evidence for that? As in links to posts or pics of counterfeit parts?

There have been some unfortunate confirmed reports of the more recent MadCatz sticks having SE buttons installed, no doubt a factory mix up.


#17

How do you know they are counterfeit parts?


#18

Ok so my replacement part came in , however i dont know how to remove the connector, i think im going to break the pins. There seems to be a hook which prevents me from pulling it out. Nevermind i managed to get it out and replace the part. Working perfectly now.


#19

The joystick wire-harness connector? It just pulls off. That Hook is there to maintain a firm conenction and now allow to just slip off.
Just wiggle the plug as you pull.


#20

I have a q4. Word from my local arcade owner said that qanba uses extremely cheap dual mod pcb that are only like $8-10 cost. I’ve always suspected wonky stuff from mine so I dropped money on a ps360+. Buttons felt legit though