Finding 5v on a CG 360 Madcatz PCB


#1

Does anyone know if there is a solder point available on the common ground 360 Madcatz pad (the one everyone uses) that supplies 5v only when the controller is turned on?

I don’t really want to use the USB connector if I can help it as when the controller’s plugged into the console, it’s always supplying output even though the console and controller are off.


#2

Here is mine. Red wire (obviously, not the one leading to “Down”. Top solder point.


#3

The one above me is the version Slagcoin has a diagram for. If you go buy one at the store today it will look like this:

http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/4827/madcatz2008sp4.jpg


#4

Thanks guys, but I need to find a point that’s not on the USB connector (like I stated). The USB connector always supplies 5v, which I don’t want.


#5

My bad. That’s what happens when posting with only 1 hour of sleep.


#6

So far, so good, but…

Hey Kyle thanks for the PCB map/solder points for the 2008 Mad Catz PCB, i’ve only got 4 more joints and my hack will be all wired up.

Does anyone know the answer to this: if i leave the pots for the R/L triggers installed, and hot glue them in a neutral position, are there points i could solder to that would allow on/off functionality for the triggers (treat them like a button)? And if so, would leaving the pots in as described get me around hooking up a resistor? I’d like to go 8 button on my arcade controller, not only for sfIV, but also for any future games that come out that may require 8 buttons. This forum is awesome, this is my first hack and so far it’s been a breeze thanks to all the good information on here.


#7

Sure you can. Go hang out over in this thread.


#8

Watch out for n00bs

Thanks again Kyle for the quick response. I read the thread you linked me too but didn’t get much out of it. I’m totally clueless with this kind of electronic work, but based on your response I’m thinking that leaving the pots for the triggers in will get me around the whole resistor issue. Still don’t know where to solder though, would you happen to have a pic with handy circles like the other one you posted?

Other than the 2 triggers i’m all soldered, hot glued, and tested and so far everything works great.

Sorry if i’m murdering Forum Etiquette, I’ve read a bunch of forums but this is only my second post. Thanks again for all the help and info!


#9

I too am interested in this.


#10

I still haven’t done this but here are some pictures. They also list the parts to pick up at RadioShack. Sorry I can’t be of more help.


#11

If the 360 pad is plugged in, it is ‘on’. There isn’t an off.
Look at it this way; if it was ‘off’ when the 360 console was off, how would it know to turn on the console when you pressed the guide button?
You could probably rig something to access the 5v only when one or more of the ring LEDs was on, but it’d be way more trouble than its worth and a crapton of electronics.


#12

No way man, you’ve been infinitely helpful, i would have never gotten it done without that PCB pic you posted. The more i think about it the more i might just end up running 6 buttons and the stick. The triggers would be nice, but i’m willing to bet you can configure around them in most games.


#13

I just had a crazy idea, so don’t blame me if this doesn’t make sense. But wouldn’t an Or gate solve this problem?

Wire the 5V on the USB to the Vcc of the Or gate(s) . Most Or gate chips have multiple Or gates on them, and you just need three to make sure that if any of the four controler lights is on, then you get a signal. If the chip can’t handle the current draw of whatever you want the 5V for, then just put a driver behind it (no logic function, but can handle better power drain).

That is one (maybe two) chip(s) to only give you +5V when one of the LEDs is lit.


#14

Thanks for the input Toodles and mogbert, I don’t really need this anymore as I was originally going to install some LED’s in my latest stick but since changed my mind.

I understand what you are talking about Toodles in regards to the controller always being in a standby ‘on’ mode. I figured it would’ve had to always have some power otherwise the console wouldn’t turn on.

Anyways, if you wanted to use LED’s, it would be nice having them installed and only having them operate when the controller/console is on (by on, I mean operational). It would look pretty daft to have the lights constantly on even when you aren’t using the machine. I suppose a on/off switch would fix that, but don’t we all want to be smarter and use electronics instead?

It is however interesting to know if it can be done as I’m sure someone will want to use it in the future.