First stick build need advice on parts required


#1

Hi Guys,

I would really appreciate some help with my first stick build. I used to work as part time carpenter and think for me to build my own stick from scratch should be no problem using quality wood.

The only thing is that I didnt want to start without knowing some basic dimensions, so I am not building the case at the moment, just waiting on reply for a ecksnine walnut case I am buying as soon as I get an answer back.

My concern is I have a couple of questions about the components I need to buy.
So far I have lizardlick.com as the shop to go to but I’ve read alot of threads that say there overpriced? whats the alternative? Any other reliable shops that stock all Sanwa, Seimetsu parts?

Before I get into the questions, here are a few photos of the case:
http://gator975.hostgator.com/~gamingno/images/walnut6_04_LRG.jpg
http://gator975.hostgator.com/~gamingno/images/walnut6_03_LRG.jpg
http://gator975.hostgator.com/~gamingno/images/walnut6_02_LRG.jpg

Questions

Board: Chimp Assembled with USB Jack
^ Does this mean I dont need to solder anything, just plug in the harness from joystick and plug in the buttons?
Buttons: Seimitsu PS-14-GN 30mm Colored Body with Clear Plunger or Sanwa OBSN-30 Pushbutton
Joystick: Sanwa JLF-TP-8T Ball Handle Joystick, 4 & 8-Way Adjustable
**^ Is this the best one to get for my case and do I need some octagonal gate I keep hearing about = Sanwa GT-Y Octagonal Restrictor Plate?****^ Any extra screws and nuts? Do I need these?**Ball Top: Seimitsu LB-39 Clear Joystick Ball Top

What else do I need?
[LIST]
[] What buttons can I use for the front?
[
] External USB Adapter?
[] Short USB cable so I can run from internal Chip to external USB connecter?
[
] Cable Ties?
[*] Wiring?
[/LIST]

Any help is appreciated, and I have the money waiting since its my birthday this weekend.

The only other reason is I dont want to order only to find out I am missing something small :frowning: and have to pay shipping again.

Thanks in advance :karate:


#2

If you’re only going to be using your ChImp for PS3, just get a PS3 only Cthulhu. No soldering required, and they’re all assembled. If you want to dual mod with ChImp, you’re going to have to solder, no doubt. And ChImps are mainly for having a dual modded stick. Cthulhu boards come cheaper, fully assembled with USB jacks. EDIT: Also, this is assembled by screw terminals. You screw the appropriate wires into place. No soldering required.

External USB adapter: Get a Neutrik NAUSB-W-B A/B. Feed your tiny USB cable from Female B to Female A on the Neutrik adapter, and then a USB A/B cable (“printer cable”) to go to your system. This is optional. If your case doesn’t have a hole for it, then just run a long A/B cable from the board inside to the outside.

Top buttons are anything 30mm. And clear plungers are Seimitsu PS-14-KNs (Or PS-14-K if you’re lucky enough to get the coveted discontinued snap ins). Just to clear that up. But they fit it.

For smaller holes, get 24mm buttons. I can’t quite tell if the button holes up front are smaller or not. May be time to get glasses :Z If they’re smaller than the top holes, get OBSN-24s or PS-14-DNs.

Also, get some 18-22 gauge quick disconnects (sometimes called solderless crimps). You can get them with your order if you buy from lizardlick. 2 for each pushbutton. .110" lugs.

As far as wire, 22 gauge AWG is pretty standard. Usually stranded, but it requires tinning (aka soldering) to work with easily. May wanna go solid core, since there’s not gonna be any solder points to break anyways.

Joystick?Can’t go wrong there.

Also, alternative shops are gamingnow.net (currently being bought out by lizardlick) and akihabarashop.jp There are a few others, but lizardlick is pretty darn reliable and ships fast, but akihabara has some parts that lizardlick certainly doesn’t, but shipping will take a bit longer.


#3
  1. You didn’t mention anything about what you wanted to play the stick on. The answer to that question is pretty important. I’ll assume for the time being you’re interested in PS3 and PC play, both over USB. If that’s all, then you should get a PS3 Cthulhu instead. THe main reason to get a Chimp is if you plan on a dual mod; soldering a 360 controller and the Chimp together to work on both. If you don’t need 360, then save yourself $20 and get a PS3 Cthulhu instead. You should also pick up the ‘USB A/B Cable, 10-foot, black’ if you don’t have a USB cable already. One end plugs into the Cthulhu, the other plugs into the PS3/PC.

Grab some hook up wire from the ‘electrical’ page. 20’ aught to give you enough to do everything with plenty of ‘oops’ protection, and costs $5. To make sure you have plenty, grab 3 of the QD terminals for every button in your stick, so no more than 33 total. You only really need 2 per button, but the extra will will cover any crimp mistakes, and they’re only 10 cents. If you have all Seimitsu or Sanwa parts, you want the 0.110" size.

The 30mm buttons are for the play area, the 6 or 8 buttons on the face of the stick. For the two or three on the back (assuming ecksnine case), you’ll want 24mm screw in buttons, like the Seimitsu PS-14-DN 24mm Pushbutton.

After that, its pretty much done. The pushbuttons and stick get screwed to the case. Mount the Cthulhu to the case, either using the “3/4” x 3/4" Cable Tie Mount, Black" and zipties available at lizardlick, or with #4 sized wood screws (hardware store). You take the wire harness that came with the stick, plug it into the stick, and screw down the five wires of the harness into the up, down, left, right and GND screw terminals on the Cthulhu. Take some wires, crimp one QD on the end, and put the QD on the prong of the button. Other end of that wire goes to the matching screw terminal of the Cthulhu. The remaining prong gets connected to ground, eventually going to one of the screw terminals marked ‘GND’ on the Cthulhu. That’s it.

Definitely read up at slagcoin


#4

Thanks alot Nerrage & Toodles!

Your reply has been very useful - I appreciate the help provided.

I hope lizardlick.com is reliable, I sent them an email to there sales@ address and they havent replied. It’s been a while and I’m guessing they get alot of emails in the one day.

I will post more questions in this thread if I need any clarification but that should be enough to get me started :slight_smile:

Thanks again
:tup:


#5

Sorry guys, predominatly it will be PS3/PC but I wanted the more expensive chimp for the ability to plug it into a X360 if required in the future. Its not necessary come to think of it, regardless the latest MC Cthulhu option comes assembled as well, doesn’t it? does that mean no soldering?

Another question I have is, if the PS3/PC Cthulhu does not require soldering then why…

Nerrage said:

What is this wire going to be used for, if its plug and play?


#6

Tinning requires soldering.
That means putting thing layer of solder to the wires.
Tinning stranded wires keep the strands of wire together, so they don’t move around.

You do not need to tin.
It is optional.

Multi-Console Cthulhu will require soldering if it is not assembled.
Also if you want to use the other supported Consoles that it does.

You need wires to go from Buttons to Cthulhu.
Laugh.

You plug wires in.
Then you play.


#7

Let me amend that?If you’re me, you need to tin your wire because stripping it tears off half of the strands. XD.


#8

Use a better Stripper Tool.
Laugh.


#9

That may solve it. Haha. Mine were out of a starter kit I got at radio shack quict e a while back. I think I see the problem already. Haha.


#10

No, you need to tin your USB wires because otherwise they’ll be very hard to pull through the holes!..

But it seems you have a board with a USB Jack so that isnt an issue for you.


#11

<3 my Gardner Bender Auto-Wire Stripper tool.


#12

I don’t tin my USB wires.
Laugh.

I do for other parts of Dual Mod though.


#13

Still dont fully understand what wires you need to tin? and what do they look like once tinned. Can someone post a picture or something of the inside of there case with what it looks like, if its not too much trouble :wink:


#14

Let me google that for you
How to’s, before and after’s, etc.
It’s not strictly required; you can crimp QD’s without the wire being tinned, and you can screw them down in the screw terminals without being tinned, but it’s better if you can.


#15

Sorry man, I normally search but Im at work at the moment. I’ll check out the link at home, also want to PM you about something later on. Its about Cthulhu, nothing technical.

I think I am ready and set to go. All thanks to you guys :slight_smile:


#16

Please don’t. There are perfectly useful threads all over that I do read, including this one. With threads, others may be able to answer sooner, or benefit from seeing your question and answer. In a PM, none of those are true, AND I have go in clean out the inbox afterwards. Unless you’re wanting to discuss buying or trading for parts with me in private, please don’t PM me.