First time mod


#1

Hey everybody, just have two quick questions. I’m moding a hori dead or alive 5 fight stick (same as scv)
(artwork and regular sanwa buttons/ball top to match). Just curious, if I use a plexi glass cover, what should I use to print the art work (prob at staples). Also, can anyone recommend a good screw driver (or size) for the top panel, I think its hex. Thank you :slight_smile:


#2

I am not sure now. If they are Hex then a allen key set should cover it .
Long ago when I started to mod, I nabbed a SAE and a metric set of allen keys.


#3

Anyone for a ideas for the art work with the plexi glass cover


#4

Astro City theme


#5

Yup can’t go wrong with astro city!
I have my Hori SCV dualmodded with chimp, with plexi and umvc3 art.
Love it and it gets compliments every time!


#6

hey dude, where did you get the plexiglass for DOA5 stick? i tried to look for it but couldn’t find it anywhere…the only available is for Soul Calibur version, from tek-innovations website http://www.tek-innovations.com/arthobbies/?loc=products&cat=18


#7

The DOA5, SCV, Gundam VS and TTT2 Hori sticks are all game licensed version of the Hori Real Arcade Pro N series(N3/NX) which uses the Namco Noir style button layout which is similar to the Sega Astro/Blast/Net City button layout except that the gap between the stick lever and buttons is wider.

The plexi glass Loque69 linked is compatible and not sure about the exact size of the hex key but it’s the same size as the Hori Fighting Edge and older HRAP stick(Arcana Heart 2 PS2 stick) which is 2 or 3 sizes bigger than the TE size.

As for what type of paper to print on, I would recommend printing on cardstock which is slightly thicker and won’t wrinkle over time under a plexi-glass. Being that it shouldn’t cost you more than $2.50, you can test out how think you won’t it to be.

Also a quick tip. If this you first time playing with plexi-glass and you need to swap buttons out, make sure you have pressure placed on the plexi against the top panel so when you’re popping those button out, they don’t get stuck and snap the plexi.


#8

but, DOA 5 version is different compared to TTT2 and SCV version, among three of them, only DOA 5 version is SPECIAL one (lol)…the space between stick and button cluster is not wide as SCV, that’s why i’m stucked right now, where to get the plexiglass, and also to change the layout into Street Fighter artwork.

or i can just can make the plexiglass by myself? if yes, how? anyone, have any ideas?


#9

Werd?
I didn’t even realize that the DOA5 had the standard Sega layout, in this case, you can probably request a custom one from Art, technically I would think that it would be simple since it’s just swapping the layout template for another but might cost extra because it’s a one off unless he makes a batch for other DOA5 HRAP owners.

In this situation, I would just go with a laminated label if there is no plexi available, that’s what I’ve been doing.


#10

yes it is based on sega arcade layout…unlike TTT2 and SCV… from iplaywinner.com :

“Special to the DOA5 edition is the Sega arcade layout as opposed to Namco Noir found on the Soulcalibur V and Tekken Tag Tournament 2 editions. Players wont notice much of the difference between both layouts during play but it’s neat to see Hori implement the Sega style. In the modification side of things, changing the buttons and the lever are easy to perform thanks to the quick disconnect harnesses. For those who want to add a plexi top and artwork to the DOA5 stick will might want to wait due to the changed layout.”

Source : http://iplaywinner.com/news/2012/10/4/review-hori-dead-or-alive-5-arcade-stick.html


#11

laminated label? what about the resistance on water? (my palm always sweating u know, lol) … i hope one day, someone will produce the plexiglass for this stick.


#12

You can, but it probably won’t be worth it unless you already have most of the needed equipment. Certainly not worth it for a one-off. You’ll need a drill (or more preferably a drill press), some clamps and a scoring knife. With Lexan you can use spade bits, with acrylic probably one of those specialized bits, or maybe a step drill bit? I’m not 100% on that.

It’s fairly easy to crack plexiglass, especially if you’re doing it by hand. I’d probably go with Lexan as it’s easier to work with and much stronger than acrylic. This is the video I used to learn how to drill Lexan.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CJ4MlcKS5uA

(Just make sure you have the correct bit sizes for your panel)


#13

Very bad. With constant play, the edges will start to separate, warp and discolor because of the heat, moisture and grime month is you’re the type that has moist palms. Was never any issue for me because my hands never got that bad(everyone’s different).
You would probably want to look up specific tutorials for higher quality labels/decals that last. I personally use vinyl laminate which requires big laminating machines so that the label and vinyl laminate are permanently one which makes them basically waterproof.


#14

ty pzlate for the video! i just thinking, instead of getting all the equipments, i just have to go to certain shop for getting this Lexan cutting service…will bring my arcade stick there, and measure the size for the panel and the button hole. but before get those DIY Lexan, please feel free to share any info on where can i order the plexiglass for my DOA 5 stick. ty everyone! (sorry if my grammar’s suck)


#15

[quote=“syn13, post:13, topic:160502”]

[quote=“Loque69, post:11, topic:160502”]

laminated label? what about the resistance on water? (my palm always sweating u know, lol) … i hope one day, someone will produce the plexiglass for this stick.
[/quote

Very bad. With constant play, the edges will start to separate, warp and discolor because of the heat, moisture and grime month is you’re the type that has moist palms. Was never any issue for me because my hands never got that bad(everyone’s different).
You would probably want to look up specific tutorials for higher quality labels/decals that last. I personally use vinyl laminate which requires big laminating machines so that the label and vinyl laminate are permanently one which makes them basically waterproof.[/quote]

The trick is to cut the art before you get it laminated so the edges aren’t apparent.


#16

laminated vinyl is also my choice, it is long lasting and won’t absorb humidity, the edges won’t get moisture of your hand, but it is thinner, when there is air bubble or imperfection on the surface you stick it onto, paper sticker can buffer it (depend on the paper thickness too), vinyl sticker won’t.