I just bought a brand new 360 FightPad yesterday, and I couldn’t believe how ridiculously difficult it was to pull off certain diagonals. Some people had suggested simply pressing down harder to get it to register, but that never worked for up+right. Upon viewing the controller properties in Windows, I could see that pressing in that general direction would register only one of the two directions, and would jump between if I ever so slightly adjusted pressure in either direction. In fact, all four diagonals responded like this, but none so much as up+right. Not wanting to have to return the controller right away, I decided to see if I could fix it myself.
Here’s what I discovered:
- The biggest source of the problem is that whoever was in charge of cutting the d-pads from the sprues after molding obviously didn’t do a very good job. I found this out by wedging a small screwdriver underneath the d-pad and popping the top of it off so I could see if there were any clearance issues. Coincidentally, there was a large piece of plastic hanging off from the up+right area on the bottom of the piece, which explains why it was so hard to activate that direction. I promptly removed it with a hobby knife and sanded it completely smooth, and instantly had better response in my games.
My advice is to check this first before returning your FightPad. Remove the top of the d-pad, then trim and sand down the bottom of the piece for every direction that you’re having problems with. Then if you think it could still use some improvement, keep on reading.
- Not quite satisfied yet, I disassembled the entire controller. I found the other problem is that, compared to other d-pads, the rubber pads themselves have a considerable distance to travel before they contact the PCB, and that leaves a larger chance of the pad popping back up unintentionally, and thus the direction no longer being registered. Fixing this problem is more a matter of preference, as some people may find they prefer a slightly more twitchy d-pad. This fix also requires that you take apart the controller.
You’re going to need a small phillips screwdriver, scissors, and some electrical tape. Remove all screws on the bottom of the controller, including the one underneath the sticker. Remove the cover and set it aside. Unscrew the PCB, and then also set that aside. Take a look at the plus-shaped black plastic piece that connects to the top part of the d-pad, and cut out some small square-shaped pieces of tape to fit on the four tips of the piece where they contact the rubber pads. For me, I only had to apply one layer of electrical tape to each tip. You can add more, but I wouldn’t suggest more than three layers, otherwise the d-pad will get stuck. This essentially reduces the amount of distance and pressure needed to activate the directions, so diagonals should register on a more frequent basis without you having to exert tons of pressure.
My FightPad now performs as it should, no thanks to the crappy manufacturing processes at Mad Catz. :looney: