Gamecube controller PCB hacking for Tatsunoko vs Capcom

I need some guidence on how to connect the buttons to sanwa joy and buttons. And how to getting work the Right and left triggers. I already solder the wires all i need is directions. Thanks!!!:rock:

i kinda suck at explaining things but this site should be able to help you they have all kinds of info on pad hacking. hope this helps you out.

Thanks for reply. I already search it but explains with many big words. My questions are:

1 Do i have to connect all the grounds to the joystick harness?
2 What its a common cable?
3How I make the Right and left triggers to work?

For that particular controller in the image all the buttons and directionals from the dpad can be hooked up to a single ground point, and daisy chained together. For the triggers though, instead of connecting them to the ground point that everything else is connected to, connect them to the common instead.

If you want to save the effort and have a 360 Pad, Laying around and you OWN the game download it to PC then use dolphin to run it on PC then plug up 360pad, I advise doing this the LEGIT Way and actually owning the game and supporting the creators, Just saying if you have the game and have a arcade stick that works on PC that’d be the way to go unless your playing it online.

You could get an MC Cthulhu board and wire a GC controller cord to it, would be the simplest way.

Gamecube controllers are pretty easy to hack, all the face buttons are common ground and are all the buttons you really need, plus its way cheaper.

anyone know if the PCB in this is common ground?

would make for a cheap PCB.

I looked around the Tech Talk, but I didn’t really see anything about placing a GC PCB into a TE stick. Anyone know how to do that if possible?

As for threi, Nintendo’s GC PCB is common ground and they’re only 4 USD more, so why not go for the 1st party and be guaranteed?

well for starters I already have one of those 3rd party controllers, and not only that I got it from my workplace for $3.99

I am trying to figure out whether I should use that or just get one of the 3rd party Classic Controllers my local walmart has on sale for $9

I really wish people would stop propagating misinformation and do their own homework :rolleyes: The entire GC controller is common ground, including the analog triggers. The slagcoin guide is wrong.

Never done it, but it shouldn’t be too hard. If I come across a TE sometime maybe I’ll do a write-up.

I’m guessing if 3rd party controllers are knock-offs of the official controllers, common ground can probably be assumed. Poke around with a multi-meter, man!:wgrin:

I’m in the middle of putting together some padhacking guides, GC included. I’ll probably end up posting here when I’m done editing, so hold tight :tup:

This is the controller in question I was talking about, got it today, gunna open it up and see if it’s common ground right now:
Nyko Wired Wing$assets$/247c5add-b6ed-4f3c-b9af-ec7f3ac3b61d/wii_wingwired_01_large.jpg

im pretty sure this doesnt work…unless im mistaken…all the buttons on the stick share a ground so as soon as you hook the triggers up it stops working. and you cant just run one wire to a button… (im talking madcatz SE stick here)

ive come to the conclusion im the only one posting here who has actually used an official gamecube controller and ut it in a madcatz stick…it is not common ground…direction, start and buttons run off one ground together, the triggers and z use another. connect them up together and nothing works at all. i just use directions, a, b x, y and start, fine for TVC. i dont know much electronics so i might be wrong somehow, but seems here everyone else is just talking fking bulsh!t and then admitting they havent done it. My interpretation of common ground is that all buttons can run off same ground…this is NOT THE CASE WITH THE GC OFFICIAL CONTROLLER…at least not my one anyway


scratch that, I just noticed the pot

they are both analog and digital, the trigger is a regular microswitch but there is also a pot on the side.

Interesting design.

edit #2

yup, it’s completely common ground. Also gives you convenient little solder points for all the signals (but it looks like if the pads get ripped off that’s it, no alternate solder points for this one)

You want to know why nothing works when you hook the “common” from the analog triggers in the Slagcoin pic to ground? Slagcoin circled 3.3V as common. You were trying to run your controller with 3.3V shorted to ground! I’m surprised you didn’t damage your controller port!

And let me say, because I pointed out an error on Slagcoin’s site, does not mean that I have anything against the guy. That site has helped me immensely in the mechanical arena of joystick building and it’s fun to look at the innards of some of the controllers I’ve never poked around in :smile:

Moving right along…

I’m too tired to finish editing the write-up I’ve been working on, so tonight I’m just going to give a quick and dirty GC trigger mod tutorial.

All you nay-sayers and tech-scrubs, listen up! :razz:

You can do this mod with an NPN or PNP transistor as long as you hook it up appropriately. Tonight I’m only covering a PNP trigger hack. Here is a crappy drawing of what we are doing.

To do this mod all you need is 2 general purpose PNP transistors (I used 2N3906’s), 2 10k Ohm resistors (wattage does not matter), about 4 inches of small guage wire, and about 1 inch of electrical tape.

After removing the PCB from the casing, the first step is to hot glue the analog triggers all the way up as pictured.

Next trim the leads of both sets of transistors and resistors as shown below.

After tinning the leads of all parts, solder a resistor to the base each transistor (center pin).

Next, solder the transistor, with the flat part facing toward the c-stick (emitter on the left pin, collector on the right), to the outside pins of the analog trigger slider as shown.

Cut two small pieces of electrical tape and lay them down in front of each transistor. Bend the transistors down flat and the resistors up.

Cut two 2 inch pieces of wire. Strip the ends and tin them. Solder these wires to the unsoldered end of each 10k Ohm resistor. Now, solder the other end of each wire to the appropriate digital trigger signal as shown.

Right Side:


For testing, I use two different Capcom games, one for each trigger type:

Megaman Network Transmission - uses Digital triggers only
P.N.03 - uses Analog triggers only

If both games perform their left and right trigger functions when only the digital triggers are activated, your modification was a success.



Are you going to buy a computer for me with the best videoz cards in the world? I thought so.

the best video card in the world wouldn’t help much, a C2D E8600 with E0 stepping and a good cooling gear would.

undamned>thanks a bunch for the PNP guide, much appreciated ^^

Undamned, could you explain where you solder the transistor and the wire to? I have 3rd parties and they don’t look the same.

No problem! Always a joy to put some solid info out there :bgrin:

I have about 5 different 3rd party Gamecube controllers that I’d like to poke around inside. I’m guessing most 3rd party controllers are just ripping off Nintendo, but there’s always a possibility that they decided to do something original, so I’ll wait until I have some hard data to give you an answer.