Gameware "Great Fighter" Stick - Unboxing / Pics


#1

Went out on a limb and picked up this stick, even though there was NO information I could find on it (call me crazy).

Here are a few selected pics:

Manufacturer Site: http://www.gameware.com.cn (Chinese)
Purchased From: http://www.gamersection.ca
More Pics: Full album on Flickr

Some interesting things:
[LIST]
[]The “Real Wood” is actually more like cheap fiberboard, but the box is very sturdy, weight is lighter than I expected, and the top panel is nice and thick. Can’t see any screws beyond the ones securing the bottom panel, top is totally smooth. Silver finish on the top and sides of panel seems to be an applique/sticker of some kind, but it’s very well applied, no bubbles or seams or anything. Quite a nice textured feel to it, actually.
[
]Buttons seem standard 30mm and 24mm, threaded, vertical switches.
[]Feet are very thick rubber and well secured with bolt + nut. It’s very solid on a table.
[
]The PCB looks like a PSX digital pad, common ground, buttons and joystick switches are soldered directly (no QD’s obviously)
[]Stock joystick has large deadzone and engage distance, WAY too far for fighters IMO. Levered microswitches, cylindrical actuator, no restrictor gate. Doesn’t use a c-clip, seems to be a metal pin through the shaft that is holding the spring. Haven’t taken it apart yet to see how to get the stick out. The stick doesn’t “twist” at all, not sure how to remove the top yet. Bat-top handle, shaft cover and dust washer.
[
]Stock buttons are convex, are a little on the stiff side, but smooth action and engages.
[*]Works perfect on my PC - tested on a Win 7 system w/an old Asus P5GD1 board (Intel chipset), SFIV and MAME. Shows as a “USB Gamepad” with 2 axes (X and Y) and 10 buttons.
[/LIST]

I think that’s all the important info for now. Obviously the wiring is a complete mess, and there was some excess hot glue I cleaned up before taking pics. The joystick is the least impressive part of the stick, it will definitely need replacing, but overall for a solid (quasi)wood box that will be easy as hell to mod, I’m pleased with it. Probably going to swap the stick, but I think I’m keeping the buttons.


#2

The thing you unscrewed is the Restrictor.
It is Square.


#3

I thought that at first as well, but all it does is secure the switches, the shaft stops short of that metal plate.

I guess the levers on the microswitches act as the gate, so it’s effectively square.


#4

So how much did you pay for this?


#5

It was roughly $55 after taxes and shipping from gamersection.ca


#6

Really?
The Actuator on Shaft does not touch the metal thing?

The the Actuators on the Microswitch are not able to get pushed down all the way?
I know the levers on Seimitsu Joysticks can push Microswitch Actuator all the way down.

Is it because of the bend on the levers of your Microswitch?
I want to see this.

The levers on Seimitsu Joysticks are straight.


#7

that all looks very similar to the SF anniversary sticks. same type of fiber board, and the buttons look the same, and the cord storage looks identical. it would probably be an easy swap for happ/iL parts. not sure about the joystick though.


#8

Here’s a couple of close-ups to show what I mean:

Bottom of the shaft/actuator and the switch levers. You can also see the retaining pin.

Plate on the bottom, just there to secure the switches, actuator does not touch at all.


#9

Damn, camera battery died. :sweat:

More pics tomorrow, I pulled the joystick out and disassembled it.


#10

Oh, that is funny.
I see what you mean now.

Thank you for pictures.
Laugh.


#11

You should look into this, as some people are annoyed by every other joysticks habit of twisting.


#12

Buttons are 30 and 28mm so Japanese parts would be a better fit. Dunno about the stick though.


#13

I’m very curious about what stick could fit in there. If you could throw in a Sanwa or Semeitsu(am I spelling that right?) or even a Happ, it would definitely be worth the price of admission. What about getting a wider actuator(new part or taping up the old one) and putting some cherries in there if a standard stick doesn’t fit?


#14

Lol, read that as semenstu.

“You might wanna wear rubber when using that Sementsu stick. You don’t want to catch some weird disease, like AIDs or gasp children!”


#15

There’s quite a bit of room in the box, I figure 45mm clearance between the bottom of the panel to where the cable compartment extends inside (about 20mm). So any of the Japanese sticks should fit. I think you would need more clearance for Happ/IL parts? (going by “Plate to Base” info on Slagcoin).

The panel itself is 10mm – my concern is, having to bottom mount a stick means you lose that 10mm off the shaft/ball height, which might be too much … even if you ditch the mounting plate?

I also want to try taping up the actuator to see if it helps, hopefully I can do it this week. Wouldn’t be able to replace the actuator, it’s very integral to the stick assembly (it’s the pivot, holds the retaining pin, and locks into the bottom spring perch and bottom plate of the stick, which is why it doesn’t twist).


#16

I disassembled the stick, and it’s quite an interesting setup, actually … I’ll see if I can get some pics of it up tomorrow, it’s totally unlike any of the ones I’ve seen. But as I mentioned, it’s actually impossible for the stick to twist or spin.


#17

New Pics - beginning teardown

Spent a bit of time today disassembling the existing components. Here are lots of new pics of the joystick components/build as well as the swiches and buttons:

Inside of box with stick removed

Joystick components - note that the metal plate is not a restrictor gate, it just fixes the switches in place.

Closeup of the bottom of the shaft, with retaining pin inserted (holds on the pivot/actuator)

Joystick disassembled

This is how the joystick is kept from twisting - the teeth on this bottom cap fit into grooves on the bottom spring perch and between the teeth on the pivot/actuator, and then the bottom cap screws into the base plate, compressing the spring and fixing everything in place.

Bottom of the stick, switches have been removed.

The stick reassembled, without switches.

Another closeup of switch - “LEMA ELECTRICS CO., LTD”. The number “6” I wrote on so I would remember which position it was in, but since I desoldered the wiring it doesn’t matter any more (and I won’t be reusing these anyway).

Closeup of button, with nut threaded on.

Bottom of button.

Button disassembled, body, nut and switch + plunger.

The plunger has a tab that fits into a slot in the switch.

That’s all the new pics for now. Will be continuing teardown of the stick, removing the rest of the buttons and wiring, and the random blobs of hot glue. I’ll need to order the new parts soon!


#18

yeah, the SFAC stick has buttons just like that too…

the stick seems to be mounted awkwardly.


#19

Haha, those microswitches look like the ones I pulled out of an old keyboard the other month!


#20

So my JLF arrived yesterday (thanks GTArcade!), and just did some quick checking, and I only get about 20-21mm shaft height even if I remove the mounting plate. It’s a tiny bit too low to be comfortable for me, so looks like I’ll be routing out some of that MDF around the joystick area, as I expected.

Buttons hopefully will arrive soon, looks like they still haven’t shipped from LL :’( I’ve seen people in Canada have ordered from him before and gotten good service, but it’s been a week now and shipping is still pending … kind of strange?