For some reason my Datel Arcade Pro Joystick is not working anymore. I modded the thing with sanwa parts and when I put it in the PS3 it worked at first but than a message pops up that says that the PS3 can’t handle the electricity or something like that and than the stick just stoped working. I put the cable in again and than it worked but suddenly stoped working again and this time permanently, any thoughts on what I should do(please help).
Provide photos of the internals
Maybe one of us can catch something you might have missed.
Also does the stick stop working when you adjust or bend the USB cable in a particular way?
Here’s some photos on the Internals and the outside just to be sure that something isn’t wrong
I can be a possibility that the PCB broke down when I put in and out the harness wiring to the buttons when it was inserted in the PS3 causing a SHORT CIRCUIT( or whatever you call it). And no the Stick does not stop working if you bend the USB cable in any kind of way.
Its more likely the USB cable, also the USB cable is the easiest thing to test for.
I strongly doubt its the push buttons. You just get a signal that what ever button is being pressed.
You might want to get a multi meter and test out the USB cable.
Also all you images appear broken.
Considering how many people ask the same basic troubleshooting questions, I’m surprised this thread isn’t stickied or something.
Anyhow, I felt the need to update your PC test screenshots, Darksakul. I added in the PS3/360 button/function that corresponds to whatever you see in the test settings in the Devices and Printers on a computer.
Complete noob trying to mod Hori EX2 fightstick
I have now fixed the picture issue, and i tried plugging the arcade stick into my PC and Xbox360 too but neither recognized it. No response or any sign off them knowing there was a USB cable plugged into them.BTW does any kind of USB cable from a 360 3rd party controller work as a replacement? Also my computer says: a usb device is malfunctioning and has exceeded the navports energy limit.(when I plug it in to a USB port)
Any USB cord works as long as it has the male type A plug.<br>It does not have to be from a Xbox 360 or PS3 controller.<br><br>If you have a multi-meter, check out each line in the USB cord for any breaks or cross circuits.<br><br>I didn’t notice before, but in one of your pictures your USB cable has a burned mark. I wonder if thats the point where the cable is actually damaged and some wires are broken or crossed.<br><br>
hi im a noob and i dont know if this is the right place to ask this but i ordered some new sanwa buttons for my stick but one of them is really sticky is this common? thanks(:
<div class=“QuoteAuthor”><a href="/profile/84492/chubbzer">chubbzer</a> said:</div>
<div class=“QuoteText”>hi im a noob and i dont know if this is the right place to ask this but i ordered some new sanwa buttons for my stick but one of them is really sticky is this common? thanks(:</div>
Probably not the right place to post this in the forums, but anyways.<br><br>Just gently take the button apart and give it a good cleaning. Mostly likely some random gunk is in between the actuator and case. They’re usually held together by plastics tabs, and gently prying on these tabs with a small flathead screwdriver should give you access to the internals.
I bought three sets of ultra touch(20g) zippy microswitches with harness for my JLF stick about two weeks ago. I got them yesterday and i tried to install them and everything was fine except when i tried to push on the corners. The microswitches didn’t reach far enough for them to activate the corners. I tested and compared the size of the original JLF microswithces and the Zippies. They were the same size so I didn’t really understand the problem. But than I saw that the Zippy has a longer travel for the microswitch to activate than the original JLF switches. This is the reason the corners aren’t being activated. So my question is: Are there any microswitches that have the same activating travel as the original JLF(Omron) microswitches and that is silent (with 20-75g)? If not than is there any tips on what I can do?
I just bought a HRAP V3 SA “like new” on ebay, and it works great, except the top Select button is nonfunctional (this I don’t mind so much, since there’s a Start/Select toggle for the Start button), and the slightest jostle causes the power to cut out momentarily. I haven’t opened the thing up to look at the USB connection, but the wire coming out of the box looks fine, and nothing seems to be loose or damaged externally. Has anyone else experienced connection issues with this model before? I can pop it open and take a picture if need be.
<div class=“QuoteAuthor”><a href="/profile/86929/bimmyvandal">bimmyvandal</a> said:</div>
<div class=“QuoteText”>I just bought a HRAP V3 SA “like new” on ebay, and it works great, except the top Select button is nonfunctional (this I don’t mind so much, since there’s a Start/Select toggle for the Start button), and the slightest jostle causes the power to cut out momentarily. I haven’t opened the thing up to look at the USB connection, but the wire coming out of the box looks fine, and nothing seems to be loose or damaged externally. Has anyone else experienced connection issues with this model before? I can pop it open and take a picture if need be.</div>
sounds like the USB cable might have a break and a wire is lose going to the select button.
Thanks for the reply, Darksakul, I guess I’ll just have to take a look inside, because “please reconnect controller” popping up in the middle of fights is really cramping what little style I have.
I have a full sanwa mod of a datel arcade pro joystick. Recently my X/A button connection stopped working. I checked if it was just the button or something in the microswitch but I swapped the same connection with another working button and it gets the same faulty response. Sometimes when I bend the USB cord it starts working in a moment but quickly stops again. I switched the USB cord too but same thing happend. Also when I hold the PS/Xbox home button and click on the A/X Button (Microswitch) It starts working. But I can’t off course hold down the home button all the time and i doubt it will work in any long period. Sometimes when I hit the X/A button fast and hard enough it will activate maybe once or twice per 30 seconds. I would be happy to get some advice of what the problem could be, thanks. Also thanks Darksakul for the previous help on this thread, it was really helpful!!!
I have a Paewang PCB and I’m trying to figure out how to wire a new USB cord to it. It has five connections instead if the regular four witch made me confused how to wire it. It has the regular four color wires plus another one that has no plastic protecting it. Also, it is possible to just cross the cables and just put electric/duck tape on without soldering
I want a serious help on my arcade stick .i bought a arcade stick hori v3 sa kai but problem is that it is not getting power on , what to do for this ??? Help me on this what are all the possibilites of the problem and how to fix it . Plz
It seems like Hori have been shipping out a lot of their HRAP V3 builds and SC5 sticks with dead motherboards. I got the chance to examine two myself last week - they were brand new but the main chip seemed dead when probed with a multimeter. Not a problem with the USB cable itself as I tried multiple different versions.
If your stick was new when you got it then return it for a refund. That’s all I can suggest outside of expensive modding.
If the stick was previously owned then try replacing the USB cable.
I need help on my hori fighting edge. I hope someone knows what to do I went to change my buttons then after I successfully did so I went to screw the faceplate back on but when I inserted the screws I heard a tinking noise come to find out a bolt fell from underneath that holds the screw this is my first stick and I just got it any idea on what to do?
Very nice job, Dark! Can I add a couple of comments, though?
Many USB Cables wind up with five wires at the device end because the manufacturer solders the cable shield to the board. It’s usually a thicker black wire (that’s what you’re seeing @mrwappaz). The discussion of why it’s there and whether or not it can be removed is long and boring and pedantic, but you can safely remove it and connect that point to the ground wire, or bundle up the shield and solder it down.
Buy a multimeter with continuity and learn to use it. There’s a tutorial in my sig, and you can get a decent one at Harbor Freight for like $5. (I know Dark mentioned this but I can never say it enough)
Nine times out of ten, it’s the cable. Always check the cable.
If you get a message like “Your USB device was drawing too much power”, that’s a short between power and ground.