Happ buttons in a SFIV SE stick?


#1

Edit: This thing doesn’t really work, but it does… but it doesn’t. Check the thread for details. To clarify I don’t recommend the mod (although my SE currently has HAPPs in it) but if you really like HAPPs there are workable solutions that don’t even require soldering.

I’m trying to put some Happ buttons into an SFIV SE stick. The standard reply, of course, is “get some sanwas”

Well, the happ buttons fit (Edit: No they don’t, i’m an idiot.) into the case and they look really nice, plus I… have them (surplus from a failed project a while ago) and I don’t have sanwas so…

So any way, the HAPPs fit into the case (Edit: No they don’t, i’m an idiot.) and look really nice (edit: This is actually true ;__;), but the 'hot swap connectors inside the SE don’t actually fit on to my cherry microswitches.

Here’s my question…

Is there any way to mess with the connectors so that they will fit over the cherry micro switches? If I bend the connectoers so that they fit over the cherrys’ will it cause a problem? If so… is there any way to put the microswitches from the stock buttons on to my new Happs?

Another question; How can I remove the square gate from my SE without breaking it? I have a nice new octagonal gate i’d like to stick on. I’ve looked through the forums and this seems to be such a trivial issue that no one has actually bothered to explain it. Unfortunately i’m a big noob so if any body could help me out…

Any help is much appreciated; thanks in advance.


#2

well if you can put the happ buttons in the stick and the quick disconnects are all that are stopping you then get some .187" female quick disconnects, cut off the old QDs and put on the new ones and reconnect them to the buttons


#3

That’s awesome, thanks; but you’ll have to excuse my ignorance…

how do I put the new ones on? Do I need to solder?

It won’t work to simply stretch the old QDs (The old QDs seem to be ‘rolled up’ a bit, could I simply pull that roll out and wrap them around the Cherry microswitches?)

Also, can any body help me on the octagonal gate question?


#4

That’s cool to know. So the buttons slide right in and the height is okay otherwise? You can either remove the existing connector like he ^ said or just solder directly to the buttons if you’re feeling lazy.

Be prepared to suffer removing the gate. I spent a good ten minutes cussing at it with a flat head screw driver. What finally worked for me was getting all four corners loose and then popping it off. At first I had three of them completely removed and could never get the fourth off. I have no idea why they made it this hard.

Don’t bother stretching the QDs. It’s not going to go well. Go pick some up at RadioShack if you’re that desperate. You will snip off the old ones, strip the wire and crimp these down. No soldering is required.


#5

Yes, the Happ buttons slide in perfectly and fit within the stick (Edit: No they don’t, i’m an idiot.)

Thanks for the awesome replies. I would pos rep you but I am not cool enough to do so yet, apparently.


#6

no, don’t bother trying to stretch the QDs. just buy some new ones, it’s only like 2 bucks. all you got to do is cut off the old ones, strip a bit of the end of the wire and crimp on the new QDs. easy.


#7

Yeah.

  • Cut off old QDs

  • Strip and expose a piece of wire

  • Put in new QD and crimp


#8

Awesome, this is on my todo list for tonight.

I played on an all Sanwa stick the other day and couldn’t get into the buttons. I am one of those oddballs who likes Happ Concaves (neg rep shield activate!). The stick itself was fine.


#9

Might wanna double-check that the nut will screw onto the LK button.


#10

Fair point, I will check right now.

Edit: SUCCESS!

Yes, it does fit, it doesn’t look like it will, but it ends up tucking itself very nicely under the piece of metal which looks like it will block it. Screwing it in is a bit awkward; you have to kind of angle it in at first, but once you get the nut under the ‘blocking metal’ it fits perfectly and securely against the frame of the joystick just like any other button.

Nice heads up though, Robo.

Edit again: Slight hiccup

The buttons actually don’t ‘quite’ fit inside the controller. The silver metal tab that sticks off of the long end of the Happ cherries sticks out just slightly from the inside of the controller. You can still screw the metal back plate over, but there is about a half a millimeter of distance between the back plate and the plastic itself.

Is it okay the cut the silver tabs off of the cherry switches? Will they still function properly? I think even without them there is a very tiny distance between the metal and the plastic but it’s so small that I don’t think it will make any difference. I’d recommend nobody else tries to put HAPP buttons on their stick until I get a chance to try out the full load out for real. I’ll let you guys know how it works.


#11

make sure you post some pics once you’re done, because I am curious to see how those things look once installed.


#12

You could bend them to fit, but you probably don’t want to cut them off because you need to hook up wires to them in order for them to work…


#13

Well wait a second, the cherry switches have three tabs coming off of them.

Two bronze tabs and one silver tab. Only the silver tab sticks out beyond the plastic.

I assumed that I would be connecting the QDs to the bronze tabs…

Do I use the silver and one bronze or what?

Edit: If you’re going to do this make sure to do the ‘middle’ buttons first, and make sure that the pins on the buttons stick out in the correct direction so that all of the QDs will reach.

I seem to have screwed in one of my HAPPs to tightly, and I can’t unscrew it now no matter how hard I turn (it is misalinged) what should I do?


#14

yes you need the one at the very bottom, that is the ground.


#15

Well that was entertaining. Another half an inch and it would have worked. I electric taped the bottom to keep it from grounding out but the button wouldn’t trigger when the case was closed. :sad: Apparently it didn’t like being squished.

You may try bending the tab backward to see if that gives you any more clearance. I didn’t have a spare microswitch to kill trying it. You can’t just rip it off because that’s the ground. You connect to that and the tab below it.

Best of luck. I don’t see how this is going to work without butchering something but it’s a cool idea.


#16

Oof, I am really sorry I convinced you to do that man, I wish you had read my other posts before you tried it… You’re right, it needs about another half an inch (maybe a bit less)

I actually managed to get it working, using the same tactic that you did (squishing buttons against electrical tape).) My buttons actually fired with the case closed but they keep getting crossed for some reason (my RB fires as an A button or my X button fires as an A button ect…) I have no idea why it’s happening, the buttons are completely insulated from one another.

I still plan on getting this working (I basically have no choice now…) but it’s gonna take some butchery…

I’m thinking… add a half inch to the case with a strip of wood or…

the stick itself actually feels very sturdy with the bottom screwed in ‘in spite of’ the buttons. I’m thinking insulation packaging (the kind new electronics come in) stick that to the bottom and see what happens.


#17

Hey, no, I didn’t screw anything up. I just tried playing around with it myself since I had an SE and some Happ buttons. If I had some more microswitches (the white guys) I’d play around with bending them or ripping off the top tab and solder directly to it if possible. I still think it’s a cool idea if you can get it going.


#18

Aye, you should re edit your posts as "difficult but doable"
If you bend back those tabs or flatten them or remove them and solder to inside the switch from the side or add a button riser or add a spacer for the bottom plate or add an insulator between the plates and the tabs then this mod works just fine.
If you could solder instead of quick disconnect you can save even more space, and soldering a wire to a button terminal is about as easy as it gets and a great place to learn how to solder.


#19

^ Yeah, I’m thinking if you flattened the top tab and soldered to it there would be enough clearance for this to work. I’m waiting on Seimitsu buttons to come in for mine but this was a novel idea.


#20

For any body who cares…

I got this mod working and without any kind of fancy footwork at all.

I bought a static proof plastic slip and stuck it in between the metal grating and the Happ buttons. Then I closed it as normal using long screws. the metal bends against the buttons slightly but every thing fires, the weight is good, and it works fine.

I’ve tested it online and it seems to work perfectly. For any one who doesn’t mind having a slightly deformed joystick and wants HaPPs in their SE this is a very workable solution.

Incidentally I also installed the octogate and it also feels very nice. I’ve heard some say that the octogate sucks on the SE but it seems fine to me; although it was a huge pain in the ass to put on.