Happ P360 - now with less diagonals

So, I just built a supergun out of a small table and a giant 2 player joystick I made about 7 years ago. Sorry I don’t have pics at the moment but will soon. Check the Columbia, MO thread in a couple days for a link. Anyway, I’m used to the good-ol’ P360 sticks made by the guys in Utah before Happ bought em’ out. It seems like Happ has “taken some shortcuts” in production and the sticks aren’t as good?

I’m trying to get a quicker response on directions, but mainly more diagonal sensitivity. Someone mentioned something about shaving/sanding the actuator. That makes sense, but I don’t want to make the actuator “oval-like.” Is there anything I can do w/ the photo cells to increase directional sensitivity? ie. bend them slightly?

please do not reply w/ “break in the stick.”:rolleyes:


don’t even think of bending the photo cells, you’ll just fock things up, trust me on that. almsot everything is the same “old” vs “new” style P360 except the new happ ones have a slight smaller inner circle diameter which makes the stick feel more tight/small while the old P360 had nice semi long throws for engagment, the new P360 are more close to hit or miss when it comes to the diagnols.

fix-get a smaller actuator by sanding it or buying a custom one from kowal (around on srk here) and the other option is to increase the inner circle diamet on the hub assembly where the spring washer mates with. i think a combo of both would be best

hope that helps

DON"T BEND THE PHOTO CELLS. You will most definitley screw up the joystick for all eternity. I busted a brand new P360 because I tried this. $40 Dollars flushed, wasted. Your best bet is to try and sand the actuator, or find a new actuator. I know this sounds crazy, but someone out there was making their own actuator replacements for a while, but then stopped. It might be possible to find a new one, but more than likely you will have to make your own or sand the one you have.

I think that person was dreaded fist.

A group of people made a custom order for new actuators a while back on BYOAC forums. I would check there.


thanks for all the replies

I actually found some random actuators and metal spacers at the arcade i used to run. The actuator is longer than the normal one, but is about a 1mm smaller in diameter. Doesn’t sound like much, but I get more diagonal “love.” The metal spacer is shorter than the normal one to offset the longer actuator. So it is almost the same TOTAL height (actu. and spacer) but just a little taller, so the tension on the spring is a little heavier ie. tighter stick. Also, because of the smaller spacer there is less “neck” on the stick(the bat sticks out of the wood less, but only about 1cm).

The weird thing is these parts are from some random old school joystick, but seems like they were made for P360? We’re talking boxes and boxes of old random ass sticks/parts from the '80s.

Goldn - I feel you on the smaller inner diameter. If that shit was bigger it would help.

Sorry for raising a dead thread but, i have been having the same problem with my p360, so how much should i sand the actuator??

Is there like a universal amount that seemed to work for everyone??

If anyone has any pics or provide a quick tutorial, THANKS!!!

I tried it out and I still have problems with down/back. I looked at my solder job then even re-did it, still have problems with downback. UGH!


diameter 14,5mm = 15 degrees diagonal
dia 14 = 20-25 degrees diagonal
dia 13,7 = 30-40 degrees diagonal
dia 13,5 = 40-50 degrees diagonal


Actually i did see that in the link above but, i dont think i did the sanding right mabey.

Is there anyone who is doing custom ones so that i can pick 2 up that you know of, kowal??

Hey kowal, those measurements are the outer diameter correct?

It so outer diameter

I use 13,5mm, but I advice 13,7 - is safe



Ah, thank you.

Well here’s my trick… I use nylon ones from OSH (Orchard Supply Hardware). They look almost identical tothe nylon spacers. I believe the size I use is 1/2 x .375 x 5/8 (Servalite). With these you have to use 2, but trim one down so that the 2 together equal roughly 3/4" in height. Or, you can get a longer spacer but trim to the same height.

I found that this will get rid of the grind from the bottom actuator. But, on some p360s, the top of the hub is rough and also causes some of the grind…this part needs to get worked. For that, I used a Dremel with polish wheel, and WD40. Spray the top of the hub where the hat bushing rubs with WD40, then polish using the polish wheel. I did this about 3 times, and the p360 has been good ever since.

Kool, I’ll that a try later on this week. I’ll let you know.

Just make sure to leave a thin coat of the wd40 on the last polish.