Has anyone ever modded something with optics?


#1

I’m thinking about making my buttons optical, so that they never break down. I’ve bought some photo-transistors. I looked up the datasheet on the photo-transistor, and wired up a prototype(running 5 volts) following the recommendation.
So now I’ve got 2 led’s sitting about 1/4" away from each other and when I block the path between them, I get the equivalent of a digital signal. That’s all you need, but I’m going to wire it backwards, and use an inverter to stabilize voltage.
Parts:
-6 IR LED’s(edit: a high intensity red LED works as well)
-6 photo-transistors(edit: op550a)
-6 470 ohm resistors(in series with the emitter led)
-6 10k ohm resistors(in series with the photo-xstr)
-1 74hc14(hex inverter - schmitt style)

So I’m thinking it should be pretty easy to wire up 6 buttons with optics. The joystick I can’t modify. The start button I don’t really care about.

I’m gonna just leave the microswitch in for feel, since I’m used to that click confirmation.

So…anyone ever modified their shit to become optical? :badboy:

edit: forget about IR emitters, just use high intensity red. Also, I can buy the inverter for something like 50 cents, but you can always just skip that too.


#2

Yes, I modded a button about 4 months ago. How are you packaging your modification? I fit all my circuitry within the microswitch itself. The way I designed mine doesn’t need an inverter, but it eats a good 18 ma inactive and 22 ma when active. Oh yea, and I have a plan to modify happ competition joysticks to become optical. If you care to talk about it pm me


#3

I realize modifying a joystick is possible, I just don’t want to waste time with it. As for the buttons, I’m going to epoxy the sensor to the side of the microswitch case, so it’s all mounted to the switch. Not in the switch. I also considered mounting it to the button, and not putting a switch in there, but it just wouldn’t feel right.

I also bought some photo-cells at work today. I’ll see if I can use those instead of the photo-transistors. Seeing as they are about a quarter of the price.

Last but not least, using a bright red led and a single photo-transistor, current consumption was 3.3 mA idle, and under 3 mA active. I don’t feel like dimming the red led any more than that, because I’ll likely run the stick off a battery anyway. So, for 6 buttons, that’s about 20 mA. And I’m also gonna put led’s on the front, so there’s another 40 mA(all 11 switches). Plus power for a pad, 10mA per pad. I’ve got 3 pads I’m gonna mate. Total current == 100 mA. I can still run that from the console, but I’d rather not. One cool reason is that my pads would still work if the controller port is blown out. hehe…


#4

TOO MUCH TECNOLOGY

OVERLOAD OVERLOAD


#5

If you think this is intense, you should see what I have in the mix.

Eventually, I WILL build a programmable stick. I’ll likely program it to perform kim’s infinite on command. That’s right, infinite combos with the press of a button.


#6

I thought you gave up on PICs?


#7

Serial Flash is where it’s at. I just don’t fee like programming that shit, and interfaces already exist.


#8



#9

Need Help on Wico P360’s … :rolleyes:


#10

:u:
Dude start your own thread…This is the second time you have attempted to Hi-jack sombody’s thread with shit that is totally unrelated.

ShinAce-
Once you make this work the stick’s box need to be clear.


#11

Jesus tapdancing Christ, you just gonna shotgun that post in any thread you can find? Congratz on showing me my first display of forum bukkake. Welcome to my ignore list.


#12

Not entirely on-topic, but it is another obscure modding idea; has anyone ever made a wireless stick? I guess the main problem would be you’d either need a custom-built case for it to house the battery, or you’d have to take it apart every time you wanted to remove/replace them :confused: Pretty useless for tournament play too, seeing as you don’t want the power crapping out on you mid-match.


#13

Well, I originally was going to put a 12V, 5AH battery in my stick(the same type you see in alarm panels). But after putting everything else in there, there’s no room left. So I’m making an 8 AA battery pack, using nimh batteries. That’ll give me 10 volts, and 2 AH. The power is then passed into a 5 volt regulator before being supplied to my controls. At any rate, with the amount of juice that I need, this battery pack will be good for roughly 100 hours of play. If you turn the stick on and come back 100 hours later, that too will drain the battery dead. I normally battle for 5-6 hours at a time, so that leaves a 95 hour reserve!!! Not too shabby. Even if I go out of town and bring my stick, I can afford to leave it on all weekend. A single 9 volt battery can power my stick for 8 hours straight.

Back on topic, yes people have made wireless sticks. You can charge the batteries 2 ways. First, remove the battery pack and charge it standalone style. Second, install a jack onto the box that you can plug a charger into. This requires some knowledge though, so only attempt if you’re proficient at making and charging battery packs.


#14

Hah, I considered the idea of having a charging bay like some wireless pads have, but then realized that’d be too big to be practical. Never actually thought of just having a jack to charge the battery. I always think of the hardest way to do things…:confused:


#15

Installing a jack would be really easy. If you’re battery is a sealed lead acid, you just need to apply the right voltage to charge it. If it’s nimh, you’ll need a current limiting resistor on your jack.


#16

actually i found this really good controller and CompUSA where i live… its a PC controller but i rewired it to a DBI5 converter at the port end…kool thing is that it has the battery in the controller like a DC memory card slot(bout the same size too) so i cut a hole and a mounted the slot in my wood on both sides so i wouldnt have to worry about taking out the battery with pressure… so all i do is plug it into the carrage when it needs to be charged… the only problem i had was putting a P360 inside of it so i used a HAPP COMP instead but it still looks and feels kool…ahh wireless

plus the LI-ION controller only cost like 24.99 so its awesome