Have I broken another pcb?


#1

So after breaking one PCB (I believe through static discharge but i’m not sure, I describe the symptoms here), I rip open my main ps3 controller, continually earthing myself and handling it very carefully. When I connect it to my PC, the usb test window shows buttons 1-8 all activated! Surely these things aren’t that fragile? And is there anything I can try to try and troubleshoot the device and get it back on its feet?

EDIT: Is it possible this tupperware shell i’m using could have acquired static and is destroying the pcb’s I have seated inside it?

EDIT: Seems as soon as I reinserted the–i’m not sure what it’s called, the plastic thing, back into the socket, it stopped ‘glitching’. Anyone know why that might be? Maybe it’s related to why the last one stopped working after I detached the daughterboards?


#2

Which is what I knew was the problem.
But you wouldn’t post pictures.

There are Resistors on the part you removed.
So keep the part, or solder the missing Resistors.


#3

I can’t post pictures. I’m not withholding pictures just to be difficult.

The resistors thing would explain it, but if that’s true they’re very well concealed as I can’t see any on this sensor/ribbon/pad thing, or on the daughterboards. Can resistors be concealed in a thin piece of plastic?

EDIT: Seems my laptop has a webcam I forgot all about, will see if I can take pics with it.


#4

Yes, the Resistors can be on the thin plastic.
They are not easy seen, because looks just like another black line.


#5

Managed to take some ‘pictures’ if you can call them that, but the quality is the pits i’m afraid, blurry AND grainy…

  1. My handiwork so far. If this looks like a mess to anyone suggestions for how to tidy it up are welcome. If I’m to end up wiring to my real PS3 controller i’ll need to re-daisy the common grounds (the old PCB had L1/R1 and face buttons separate, on PS3 they’re the same). As to why I’ve got terminal blocks for ground and QD’s for live… I’m not sure! But I don’t have a long enough strip at the moment. I’m concerned about the qd’s touching each other though, so may change them to terminal block in future.

That white stuff is blu-tac. Are there better things I can replace it with later?

As to why i’ve decoupled the wires, it is partly to make it easier for removing the PCB if I want to work with it, and also in anticipation of any possible future dual modding (would have a PCB on the bottom left and bottom right). I’m not sure if I really should be inconveniencing myself with this preplanning though…

http://img819.imageshack.us/img819/4796/picture0003ze.jpg

  1. The old PCB that I broke (?).

http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/5576/picture0004tm.jpg

I’ll try take a better pic if I can, if it will help.

  1. The underside of that PCB:

http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/3265/picture0005u.jpg

I desoldered one of the analog sticks this morning–perhaps making this PCB even less recoverable? Since then that analog stick started ‘firing’ when connected; I assume that it also had a resistor inside it?

  1. The daughterboard I took off. There were two more solely for the shoulder buttons, I don’t think I need to show those as well. Sorry the image is so dark…

http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/272/picture0006yj.jpg


#6

If you removed the Analog Sticks, you have to replace with Resistors.

Measure the Resistance of the Potentiometer of the Analog Stick.
Divide that number by two; this is the Ohm you need.
Buy four of those Resistors.
Solder back.

Or just put back the Analog Stick.


#7

Ok, there are 12 holes left where the analog stick used to be, which do I need to test?

In the old pcb it seems to be all switches at the top–so how can a resistor be resisting anything if no circuit is made? Clearly something i’m not understanding, but what?

It’s pointless putting back the analog stick unless I can get the rest of the board to work, too. I can’t reattach the daughterboards, it’s beyond that stage. Just need to know where a resistor would need to go, but every hole is for either a common ground or one of the buttons.

Or to line it up with picture number 2, top right: up, left, down, right, ground, menu, select, ground, start, ground, square, x, circle, triangle, l2, grnd, l1.


#8

Bump. Still wouldn’t mind an answer to this question. I don’t know where the resistor would go on the main set of pins, since each one corresponds to a button and I thought for a resistor to be functional it would have to be resisting a current, whereas on a switch the current is broken?