Have you heard of Anomaly Arcade Sticks?


I’m relatively new when it comes to fighting games, but I’m looking to get more into them and figured I should probably get myself a stick. I’ve never really used one before but from what I’ve read I’m going to need one. I see a lot of people saying to build your own, but I had a bad experience building a computer a couple of months back so I’m kind of terrified to attempt stuff like that right now.

Anyway, while looking around I found a really cool Scott Pilgrim pre-built stick from Anomaly Arcade Sticks. I tried to find out more about them, see if their sticks are any good, but I cannot find anything about them outside of their site and Facebook page. Has anyone heard of them or know if their sticks are any good? I’d like to know before I drop money on one.

Moved: Have you heard of Anomaly Arcade Sticks?

They’re actually really nice. Well built and pretty.


One of my online friends is selling one because he thinks it’s mediocre work and isn’t pleased with it. I’ve also seen one in person and the paint job done on it was pretty bad. There are other quality complaints such as the hand painted ball tops having the paint chip off because it isn’t clear coated and properly adhered to the ball top during production.

Some of the ideas are good but just poorly executed.


Their sticks look nice, but the painted ball tops look pretty badly painted (really visible brush strokes, not cleanly done), no offense to Anomaly.

Assuming their sticks use your standard arcade-quality parts, there’s no sense in buying one from them, you may as well make your own. There are lots of resources available.

edit: the enclosures they use look like SimpleCases, http://www.simplecase.org/


The balltops aren’t great. Gandakris does some dynamite work on balltops. Hard to compete with that.

Never seen an Anomaly case in person but I know the case is put together in a very simple way. Wood blocks on the corners instead of a legit joint. I’ve seen some with questionable paint and some with what looks to be decent paint. I browsed through his work and it seems inconsistent. I think your best bet with Anomaly would be stain instead of paint. I would consider buying one if the price was right (and I couldn’t make a case myself) but if it’s much more than $100 in complete form I would skip it. IMO, Foehammer cases are much higher quality and comparable in price.

TL;DR - Anomaly sticks are ok. Foehammer is probably your best bet on a wood case if you can’t build one yourself.


Magocyber does good work. Check the trading post. We’ve got some talented builders here.


Yeah, I agree with the above few posts. He charges like $300+ for these and they’re pretty simple. Paint quality inconsistencies and what not. For that price you could get a complete Panzer that will take a harder beating than AA sticks and have a lasting finish that looks good.


Okay, I’ve decided I’m just gonna bite the bullet and get a Panzer and put the thing together myself. This is my first build, though, so I’m not entirely sure what I need. Here’s what I have picked so far (all the parts I’m getting are from FocusAttack):

  • Panzer Fight Stick NOIR 8-Button Layout, DB15 & NEUTRIK Interface
  • Akishop PS360+ Multi-Console Joystick PCB
  • Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT Joystick (Getting the balltop from Jasen’s Customs)
  • 8x Seimitsu PS14 KN 30mm Screw Button
  • 3x Sanwa OBSC 24mm Translucent Pushbutton

I know I need more than these parts, but I’m not sure what else I need. Sorry if this isn’t the right place for asking stuff like this (I just noticed that this discussion had been moved to a different thread) but any help I could get from you guys would be greatly appreciated.


You want wire 22 to 28 gauge, quick disconnects size 0.110 you want a minimum of 2 for each button, order spares if you mess up crimping.
You can also order pre crimped wire with quick disconnects already installed and daisy chained wire (for ground)

Either USB cables or cables with a RJ45 plug for your NEUTRIK Interface depending on which one you get
a shorter USb or Ethernet cable from the inside of your NEUTRIK Interface inside the stick to the PS360+

I recommend the DB 15 that Jasen’s Customs sells as its a easier install than the solder or crimp versions
You want a DB 15 serial cable (maybe a NEO GEO extension cable if you are using it with a NEO GEO console)
Pad of paper and pencil for note taking and maybe a digital camera (for documentation)
Zip ties for wire organization

optional - thermal heat shrink for dressing and insulating wires (looks better than tape)
electric tape, if necessary


Only thing I can add is

A: You’ll probably never have a need for a DB15 port, so just stick with the Neutrik

B: It’s way easier to just buy a complete wiring harness from FA than it is to make your own http://www.focusattack.com/black-joystick-and-button-wire-harness/ that’s what you hook up your arcade parts to the PS360+


C: It doesn’t really mater but, screw buttons are made for wooden/mdf panels. they can be used in metal like the panzer but for re-sell/trade options i’d go with the snap ins

D: grab a set of fa button silencer pads for 2 bucks http://www.focusattack.com/silencer-sanwa-seimitsu-30mm-foam-washers-8-pak/


I don’t like those harnesses. The way the QD’s are crimped is shitty. They are basically flattened on to the wire.


If you are planning on getting translucent buttons, go with screw-in. If you ever want to try using RG switches on your buttons, go with screw-in. For my everyday sticks I always use screw-ins but that’s just me. The metal on the Panzer is thin enough that you really don’t need screw-in buttons but, by all means, get what you want, man. One reason I go with screw-in is versatility. You can install them on a wider range of panels. If I ever decide to swap the buttons out I can use the ones I took out of it on pretty much any case or panel.

Focus Attack silent pads are only OK. For screw-in Seimitsu buttons you should get Big or Little Kahuna from Paradise Arcade Shop. All shop loyalty aside, they are just better.


el greco, I had a look at the harness and it’s way cheaper to just buy a wire set with quick disconnects and a ground daisy chain than that. But I did change to snap in buttons and I’m getting the silencer pads.

So as it stands now, here is what I’m going to be building my stick with (assuming I can get any of this. This is all for a theoretical gift I could be getting but still, dare to dream):

  • Panzer Fight Stick NOIR 8-Button Layout, NEUTRIK Interface
  • Akishop PS360+ Multi-Console Joystick PCB
  • Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT Joystick (Getting the balltop from Jasen’s Customs, and apparently it comes with a harness so that’s awesome)
  • 6x Sanwa OBSF 30mm Pushbuttons Dark Red/Black
  • 2x Sanwa OBSF 30mm Pushbuttons Yellow/Black
  • 3x Seimitsu PS-14-D 24mm Pushbuttons Red/Black
  • 30mm Foam Washer Silencers
  • 16pc Wire with .110 Quick Disconnects
  • 10 Connection .110 Ground Daisy Chain (I know I have 11 buttons, but I’m assuming I can use one of the 16 other wires as a ground for that last button and hook it up to one of the other ground ports on the PCB. Please let me know if I’m wrong about that)
  • Neutrik NAUSB-W-B A/B USB Feedthrough

And then a long and a short USB A to B cable for the innards and outside.


Another vote against snap ins. They tend to be easier to break. Broken snap ins do not have any resale value. Screw ins will last a lifetime unless you abuse them. Screw ins will always have resale value because they will not break. Screw ins are far more versatile than snap ins.

The only reason to get snap ins is if you MUST have OSBC-clears. Otherwise, there is a wider range of options in screw ins.

I also vote for simply getting the wires yourself. You can still organize it easy and it’s a lot cheaper. If you want in the future, if it bothers you that much, you can always get some flex tubing and heat shrink wrap. However, on a PFS, you’ll never see the harness anyway, so why bother? I’m fairly certain that Jasen has the wiring himself, and can probably even wire that stuff up for you. He will sell a complete stick so you don’t have to do anything. As long as he has the parts or can get the parts (which he can get any parts you need) then it can all be done on a single order.

I also vote for DB15 as well. Never hurts to have the extra port especially for consoles that don’t have to have a PCB and can be directly wired or even have a PS360+ output through it for Supergun tournaments. It really depends on how serious you are. RJ-45 cable swaps go a long way. USB to console swaps go a long way. DB15 can go a long way as well.

I’m not going to comment on silencing pads because I’m obviously biased.


The db15 port will also allow for swappable project box pcb’s down the line. Doesn’t hurt to have it in any case. Also, get way more quick disconnects than you need, I can almost guarantee you’ll end up needing them.


Alot of people use a Super gun or a NEO GEO console

Both Utilize DB 15 connectors.
There are also handy for project boxes.


Ive been using spare cat5 cable for wiring, it’s already semi organized. Then shrink tubing the ends, looks pretty good.


Pics or didnt happen :wink:


some of my favorite button colors are only sanwa snap-ins :frowning: (violet, vermillion)


Hence (part of) why I stopped buying Sanwa, I can’t go back to Snap-ins.


Here is an image of the inside of an Anomly stick. Nothing is anchored down. A mess of wires, PCB is just floating around. If anyone has one of these and transports their stick, they could do some major damage to the PCB. USB cable is much longer than needed, and so on. $300 is ridiculous for what you get.