I got a HRAP 4 recently and something feels off in the stick. You can sort of feel it… not so much grinding… but catching. It’s extremely noticeable when riding the gate, and doesn’t effect fighting game play… but. I can feel it, and it is really annoying. It also has a little bit of a squeak to it. It almost feels like it wants to hang up and just stay stuck at certain angles.
I’ve taken it apart totally and cleaned it and it really made no difference at all. Any advice on fixing the catching or squeaking?
I don’t know about that stick, but make sure you put the lubrication pivot back in at the right location.
On some sticks, it’s actually possible to put things in in an incorrect order, and still have the stick “work.”
Also, what lube did you use, and how much?
Did you use silicone gel? If it’s silicon gel, using too much can be just as bad as using none.
Also, edit, please check the integrity of the spring and any pivots or actuators the spring attaches to. Maybe check for warping also, which might not be obvious.
BTW someone used cooking oil as lube and said it worked great.
And cooking oil can be used in an emergency until you get something better and proper. I’d never use it. It’s no different than people using cooking oil as thermal compound on CPU’s (hell, they even used toothpaste before). You ever seen people submerge entire computer motherboards in oil for extreme cooling?
I have a 10 year old tube of radio shack silicone gel that has turned out rather handy, stuff works great, used for my Sanwa, and for other stuff like Thrustmaster F22 Pro joysticks when I used to dogfight…
Yes, I seen PC mother boards completely submerge in mineral oil which is nonconductive NOT cooking oil. Even then it is not for everyday regular use.
There is no reason for emergency repairs, you are not a military mechanic stuck in the field and have to McGyver things because lives are depending on you.
Cooking Oil as thermal material is a very very bad idea, as it gets hot it melts/thins out more, and oozes out from its place between the CPU and heatsink and gets everywhere. Its a quick way to destroy your CPU.
Also Cooking Oil is somewhat conductive, all organic mater is, it is why you should never use a feather duster on your PC. As well as dust will just stick it self to the oils and glue themselves into place.
Toothpaste is also a terrible idea, this is the standard “saran-wrap-in-place-of-condom” BS ideas that never actually work.
Put toothpaste on your frying pan, put it on low heat. What is the results? Does it start to steam or smoke, is it burning?
Because it do the same thing in the PC.
Then do nothing. Seriously you aren’t helping and if someone follows some of your bad advice they are going to ruin their stuff.
As for the 10 year old tube, as long as it does not dry out it be fine, I got a 6 year old tube of Molykote 44.
The only thing you should be using for your joystick is dry silicone based lubricant, preferably Dow Corning Molykote 44 or Shin Etsu 40.
A $20 tube for most people last a life time, and even a $2.50 amount can last quite a few stick projects.
I am assuming your Hayabusa joystick is still stock?
This is similar issue with the aftermarket Kowal actuator. What people there do is the edges, the lightly sand them to blunt and curve those edges.
It means taking your actuator out, sanding it, making sure its dust free before reinstalling.
Figured it out… it was weird. It ahold be noted that this is my first stick from Hori, but I’ve done a lot of custom work before, so I knew it was going to be weird.
The half sphere thing (I’m just waking up. Words are hard) had a few tiny flaps of left over plastic on two of the channels. So I shaved those off. Then I noticed a few tiny bumps on the actuator that made it a bit too wide, so I shaved that down. THEN I saw that there was more slack, as if the shaft was a centimeter longer than it should be, When I went to extreme gate riding angles the separation would catch various bits, so I added a small washer between the bottom of the actuator and the c-clip.
All together after that I put in a Kowal octo. Re lubed everything all over again with some industrial silicone for an elliptical machine… and all is well.
If you’ve ever put a plastic model together you’re likely to have seen it. Occasionally a little flat, translucent bit of plastic extrudes from the mold. That’s what most of it was, just a little thicker and not protruding as much to be instantly noticable.
Mine sometimes makes a clunking noise moving from neutral to engage… nothing that ruins the game, but it def. doesn’t feel “premium”. It’s not consistent, but I’m not sure what causes it. Have re-lubed with the right lube, the spring has been switched, the actuator and gate are kowal.
It plays great, so I don’t really want to fuck with it, but it’s kind of bugging me.
That was one of my symptoms. Make sure there’s enough lube on the right parts of the shaft and the sphere. Check the top of the actuator to see if one part looks deformed. If it looks deformed that’s where it’s hanging up and you can usually figure out the best fix from there.