Help please - PS3 TE fight stick mod without Chimp


Hi guys. Ok, here’s what I’m planning to do. I want to make my TE stick wireless with dualshock rechargeable battery in, so basically make it wireless and rechargeable just for ps3 (not dual mod cuz I don’t need 360).
I’ve looked everywhere and it seems like only dual mod tutorial available with chimp method. Is there any place I can look for manual mod? or at least I can find TE pcb diagram so I have understanding how it works?
I have vague idea where things to where but, for example I don’t know where commons (from dualshock pcb) needs to be connected to, etc.
It would be great help if someone can explain me or give me a link regarding any of these or manual mod tutorial/pcb mapping etc.
Thanks a lot for reading and looking for reply.
Cheers guys


So you’re trying to mod a TE via Sixaxis/Dualshock 3?

get yourself a axisboard from toodles and wire it up. Its better if you have a sixaxis for this as it takes ps3 signals via ribbon cable.

this is what you need to know
How to Assemble and Install an AXISdapter

Note since your TE goes under a common ground setup, you’re gonna have to split up the grounds for the specific common signals. Its explained in the instructable too


If you’d rather not have to do a total rewiring, you may be interested in a Leo v2 board, because not only does it make it easier by forcing the PCB to be common ground and connecting via ribbon connecter (However, later model DualShock 3 PCBs cannot be used with this! It’s best to get a regular SIXAXIS PCB, because they all work)

If you connect the ground to the ground of the TE terminal strip, then all of your buttons will be wired nicely to ground. But here is a full diagram:

Also, just completely disconnect your PS3 turbo panel from everything. No need to use it with the other PS3 PCB.


OK thanks a lot mr.mortified! I had look at your link and think I can connect correctly to TE stick.
and thanks Nerrage for the diagramme. It’s brilliant!
Just one more question. I think I can connect the buttons and stick correctly, but what if I want to connect the turbo panel LED and use it as indicator (like 1,2,3,4 you can see on the pad)? Do you have diagramme for that at all?
Many thanks!


Please note that the diagram I linked for that is ONLY for use with Project Leo, you cannot wire AXISdaptor with that.

I don’t have a diagram for that. I think I could explain it, but I’ve never done it, so I don’t want to tell you wrongly. But I do believe jamesepoop has done such a thing. Maybe he’ll chime in about that one.


ok, I’ve done some more extensive research and I would like to confirm something. I am going to manually connect sixaxis adaptor bit (without sixaxisadaptor) and connect to imp (I’m going to order imp board). It seems like lots of people buy imp board for dual-mod purpose but let say, if I just want to ps3 wireless function/recharge purpose, would I still be able to do that (by missing out xbox connection bits)? or does it always has to be dual-mod? I guess if I just want wireless function, manual connection will do, but I would like to use the LED light/Home button function and that’s why I want to put Imp board as well.
Look forward to any help. Thanks guys


There’s a diagram in toodles’ instructable when it comes to the axisadaptor when it comes to wiring up the axisadaptor. Why would you need the imp though? If you’re only going to go for your PS3 TE to be wireless, all you’d really need is another usb mini b to connect to the sixaxis. You’d then just have to cut the USB mini b’s wires to see your VCC, D+, D-, GND wires and then just cut out the usb wires from the TE’s PCB. That way you can use the original in the TE to charge your sixaxis.

Like I said before, since the sixaxis pad isn’t common ground, you’ll have to use a separate ground point for your start, select, home. Another ground for 1p 2p 3p 1k 2k 3k, and another ground for directions + 4p 4k. This means you can’t use the terminal block when it comes to the grounds of the start and select buttons and you’ll have to use another ground for 4p 4k and also have to solder to the pcb to tap into the home button.

The LED lights to the main board are for the turbo which will not be accessible if you do end up doing this mod. However if you do want to use the LED’s on the stick for controllers, as nerrage said, jamespoop did do this. You’d just have cut the connection around the led’s and solder directly to the smd led’s

The leo board however does help out a lot more and opens the doors for dual/triple modding your TE as it makes your sixaxis board a common ground board

Hope that helps


Thanks Mr. Mortified! You are genius! After reading your reply I have much better understanding. I just want to check something if I understood correctly. I found the following link

Joystick Vault / PCB PS3 soldering SCHEMA Diagram sixaxis

so, you mean I need to connect like the diagram, right? I know I keep throwing noobish questions but I’m quite new to this field and now I have couple more questions to ask. sorry :stuck_out_tongue:
According to the diagram, I need two ground from stick (one to share with 4p 4k and one to connect to resistor and then feeding to sixaxis pcb), but there are only one ground coming out from TE stick (with up, down, right, left obviously). so I’m wondering what I should do.
and second question - I just ordered mini b connecting line. so I need to physically cut the line open and get those (VCC which I believe you mean connecting point shows as USB+ on the TE pcb?, D+, D-, GND) lines and directly connect them to original USB, so that I can charge. Did I understand correctly?
Ok, then here’s question. Do I need to physically detach the TE USB and connect to mini b lines or would it be ok to solder the mini b lines on the soldering points on TE pcb while the original TE USB is still in situ?

Yes, I would like to use the turbo LED lights for controller LED indicator but it seems quite advanced mod for me at the moment. I think I’d better leave it until someone comes up with tutorial. But once again, I greatly appreciate your kind reply :smiley:


oh, and incidentally, to use the home button on TE, I am thinking of soldering two lines (one for gnd, one for actual PS button) on either side of E and inverted E shaped contacting points something like this

(one this picture there is only one solder line on inverted E point, but I’m thinking of making another on the other E part), and connect them to sixaxis pcb. Do you think this will work?


If you wanted to do that, I’d honestly highly recommend getting project Leo, because you are essentially going to have to dual mod the PS3 TE PCB for the home button (You MUST power it for it to work, and since it is common ground, you can’t use with AXISdaptor, which doesn’t make the SIXAXIS PCB common ground)

Connect VCC to the 5V of USB, connect ground to ground of USB. Then you only need to solder Home to the right side.


Hey I don’t mean to thread jack you or anything Shaun, but I’m actually doing this right now. Well not really. My pcb off the te died and got a sixaxis and axisadapter. I tapped the MPCB(madcatz) ground and power to the PPCB(ps3) battery lines. Tested everything and its all gold. Nerrage, could you elaborate more on the PS Button connection? In terms of common grounds, All the buttons have the on the same ground(square, triangle, l1, r1, etc) except for the stick which has its own. And the MPCB which is on the battery ground. When I touch the PS Button line from the axisadapter to the MPCB PS button, it will act like I’m pressing the button. If I hold it there, then it will act like I’m holding it.
I might have to change my wiring up a little bit but otherwise just need guidance in this last step.


I mean, that, to use the home button, you need to power the TE PCB, because the signal is connected to the integrated circuit, and the other side is ground. You could cut both traces so that neither were connected to ground or the IC, then solder on the common to one side (doesn’t really matter), and the signal to the other side.

However, the easier option is to just power the PCB so that it naturally has ground on one side, and a signal on the other side. However, you must have a common ground PCB to connect it, because the common is not ground, and thus has a voltage attached to it, and connecting it directly to ground (At least, when not expected, like in the cases of signal wires on common ground PCBs, they’re expected to touch ground, but the PCB can handle it for them. However, the SIXAXIS PCB doesn’t expect the common to touch anything but its own signal) would cause a bad short circuit, drawing a lot of current and forcing the device to disconnect it.

That’s why I was advising to use Project Leo, it forces SIXAXIS to be common ground, which means it can connect to the other PCB.

For you, I would recommend cutting the signal and ground traces from both sides, then solder on the common to one side and the signal to the other, as you already own an AXISdapter.


When you say signal and ground traces, do you mean physically cutting the lines on the physical pcb? I think I get what you’re saying but maybe not. Do you think maybe you could ms paint a diagram real quick haha?


Oh snap, I forgot about that issue…
Only ever really used a sixaxis for a full stick build and that’s why it was generally helpful.
However if you do plan the axsisadaptor route, as nerrage said you’d have to kill the signal and ground traces on the home button for the pcb. At least that way you don’t have to power the PCB as Nerrage already said…

damn i really do have to read above me…

also there are a plethora of smarter people than me in this forum

here’s your diagram, don’t have a ps3 TE pcb in front of me to double check but essentially you want to isolate those two areas from the board entirely.

also if you do it like this your lockswitch won’t work

also for that usb charging, just take the wires away from the TE pcb as you’ll no longer need them. Sacrifice a usb with a mini-b connector and then just cut that open and match the wires, red to red, green to green, etc… Then plug that usb into your sixaxis


Cool! thanks for help :smiley:
I just would like to confirm on one thing. I am going to connect up my sixaxis pcb like the following diagram.

Joystick Vault / PCB PS3 soldering SCHEMA Diagram sixaxis

Is this correct? But then how should I be able to get two ground from TE stick (one for connection 7 on the diagram, and one to share with L1, L2) since there’s only one ground coming out from TE stick (along with up,down,left,right)?


If you use AXISdaptor, you will wire it up like that. It has different commons, and they are not all ground. You will have to break the ground circuit in order to use.

If you use Project Leo, you will wire it up like I posted above.

Project leo is easier.


For one, that setup does not use an axisadaptor at all. The axisadaptor uses a circuit board with screw terminals which taps into the ribbon connector of the controller. You can use the same ground point twice for your project.

There are pro’s and cons to the axisadaptor compared to the leo board. The axisadaptor comes cheaper for sure but the leo board is more robust as in it changes the sixaxis to be common ground meaning less work and more compatibility when it comes to future mods.

In short if you’re ONLY going to have that stick have only ps3 functionality and don’t mind a bit of work, go for the axisadaptor.
If you’re planning to spend a bit more for ease of wiring, planning for future compatibility and if you really want to, a triple wireless mod, go for a leo board.


Don’t forget LEDs. If you plan on lights down the road, it needs to be common ground. Leo2 will take care of that


After two weeks intensive work, I’ve finally done it! :smiley: all works fine - wireless, recharging, LED function too! Thanks to you guys! You are genius!
Just final problem to solve though!
I’ve connected the PS button like mr.mortified picture above. But now the stick is set as DP Mode. How can I change it to Left stick mod? Is there any other soldering points for that?


lol! please ignore my last question. It’s sorted. I can just leave it as default.
Anyway, I’ve done it and it works beautifully, that’s what it matters. Many thanks to everyone helped me through this :smiley: