Help with JLW on TE

One of the first things I do before installing components (sticks and buttons) is to run a diagnostics test on them.

Having a multi meter helps a lot as you can run a continuity test on the switches.

So, set the multimeter to test for continuity (diode label) and then have one terminal to NO and the other to either COM and then press the stick. If the meter beeps then a signal is passing through and for that particular switch, it is working.

I’ve a question of my own (sorry to hijack the thread…): since we’ve seen that the JLW fits in the TE, would it also fit in the SE as well? I’ve a TvC stick and I’m not particularly fond of the overly soft spring of the “JLF” (I use quotes because I’m using stock MC stick). I prefer the feel of the JLW. Also, I know doing the LS-33 spring would make it (JLF) stiffer. In comparison to the JLW, would it be more stiffer or still less?

The JLF spring mod is a little tighter meaning it has more tension than the stock JLW. I have both sticks.
The JLW has a shorter throw than the JLF. I think I prefer the JLW over the JLF. I’ll still be messing with this one for while to make a better judgement. I like the tighter and thicker lever springs of the switches on the JLW much better than a Seimitsu’s LS-32. I’m using the circle gate with the JLW and I’m not so sure I like it. I’ll keep trying it and compare it to the stock square gate.

FYI- I ended up completely taking out the switches to the JLW and then connecting the directional qd’s to the switches first, then I placed the switches back in the JLW casing and connected the ground wires. Major thanks to Digital for helping a noob with the qd placement.

I have a JLW in my SFII cab, its the best stick IMO. Good blend between American/Jap…Planning to put one for my SF AE stick…

I know what you mean. I’ve been using a JLW in my custom stick for about 10, 11 months. When I got my TvC stick, it felt like there was no feedback to tell me that I’ve engaged the switch. But it’s good to know that the JLF spring mod will make it tighter than the JLW. Thanks for the info. =D

Remember that the throw to the JLF is longer than the JLW. When I use the JLF spring mod, I use it with a square gate. It helps me with accuracy and throw distance (as oppose to the octogate).

Looks like Digital- got you all sorted out on what tabs to connect the QDs to.
However, after fixing that you said that it still tends to the right.
If I am not mistaken, the yellow wire is for the right input and it looks like the ground connection has a little loose piece of wire poking out and going into the right input wire terminal.
This will cause it to think you are pressing right. All the fiddling you have done to the stick may have bumped the loose wire out a bit making it seem like it was fixed but it occasionally touches. Just snip it off or twist it back in to its proper terminal.
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p202/BigPockets/Joysticks/JLW2.jpg
Hope this helps.

Razor sharp eye BP!!! I’m gonna snip that off. Thanks dude.

I agree the jlw is great stick short and clean

even jesus chuck likes a jlw:

http://zeet.es/wheaties/sticks/chucky_christ.jpg

http://zeet.es/wheaties/sticks/messy_insides.jpg

(don’t mind the insides…i’m all about functionality!)

Yeah I suggest that you try to tin your stranded wires with a soldering iron before stuffing it in that header, This is one of the few cases where solid core wire could be better.

If he has a soldering iron in the first place, then there’s no excuse not to solder the connections.

There is no substitute (unless using crimped QD’s or terminal strips).

I have a cheap soldering iron from radio shack but I don’t know how to solder that good. I’m a noob at this! I try to solder but the solder just melts and stays on the tip of the soldering iron. When I try to make it drip on the point, it becomes a huge mound of solder that won’t spread. hahaha, I know, I suck. I’ll keep trying and practicing.

@ Zeetes- that Chuck Norris Jesus stick made me laugh so hard, lol.